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01-16-2010, 12:34 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by MikesChevelle Quote
Im sure this is gonna go for more than I can spend, but this seems like a very nice one.

Tamron AF 28-200mm f /3.8-5.6 LD Aspherical pentax LENS - eBay (item 160395425976 end time Jan-22-10 15:12:18 PST)

If you are imaging static subjects in good light it will be fine.

01-16-2010, 12:39 PM   #17
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Yeah, apples and oranges (and peaches and kumquats). Macro lenses, and long tele primes and zooms, and fast lenses - these are all different sorts of fruit, and mixing them together into one lens requires many unsatisfactory compromises. You just won't find a fast macro tele-zoom. Let's look at these separately:

1) MACRO. Will you be shooting in a studio (or kitchen table) or in the field, with or without ringlight, tripod, assistance? For macro work, a fast lens is irrelevant -- you need to stop-down for adequate depth-of-field. Autofocus and image stabilization are also irrelevant, especially when on tripod. You can use a macro lens, say 28-30mm for great enlargement, or 90-100mm if you need to be back a bit from your subject. Or you can use a good prime on tubes or bellows or reversal ring, and get MUCH better image quality than with a teleconverter or diopter lens. I use a couple of eBay specials, an Access (Chinon) 20/2.8 (US$27) and a glorious Vivitar (Komine) 90/2.8 (US$3), both manual macros; or I'll put a Pentax Super Takumar 55/1.8 (US$7.50) or any of various 75-150mm Vivitar enlarger lenses (US$7 each) on a reversal ring or bellows; and I'll use a ringlight and probably a flash on the side.

2) WILDLIFE. Are you shooting hummingbirds, or antelope, or moose, or cougars, or musk oxen? I used to put a 400mm lens and 15" bellows on a rifle-stock mount, to shoot rattlesnake closeups from a safe distance, like 12 feet away. If your subjects are slow-moving and/or well-lit, a standard long zoom might do. Otherwise you'll need a FAST long zoom (quite expensive) or just a fast fixed tele. And you'll probably want a tripod. Also, ask yourself: Do I *really* need to add to the already-huge assortment of bird and buffalo pictures taken over the last 150 years? (And do we consider athletes as another form of wildlife?)

3) SPEED. Will you be shooting for stealth, or surveillance, or mood (like sexy candlelight scenes), or high-speed, or just VERY shallow depth-of-field? Except for primes around 50mm, quality fast lenses tend to be BIG and rather costly, and autofocus may be sub-par in low light. I use my Pentax FA 50/1.4 (US200 new), or eBay specials like the cheap SuperTak I mentioned above, and a Russian Helios-44 58/2 (US$19) and Jupitar-9 85/2 (US$49) or a force-fit Nikkor 85/2 (US$9), and a Vivitar (Kiron) 24/2 (US$80), all manual. I might indulge in some f/1.5's next time I'm flush, but I'm not unhappy with what I already have.

Old manual primes are great to "play around with" and often quite cheap on eBay. Look for Pentax/Takumar and Vivitar and Sigma, but don't be afraid to blow US$10 on a Toyo or Meyer or Lentar or something Russian. If you don't like the image quality, smear some Vaseline on it and pretend it's a Holga.

EDIT: When I got my K20D, I bought the FA 50/1.4 "nifty fifty", DA 10-17 fishzoom, and DA 18-250 superzoom (vastly underrated, IMHO). Despite acquiring MANY other lenses since, those are still what I use the most.

Last edited by RioRico; 01-16-2010 at 02:53 PM. Reason: addendum
01-16-2010, 02:30 PM   #18
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Quaility on those 28-200's is usually pretty low, plus you'd still need a wide angle lens, because 28 isn't wide on your DSLR. You're almost always better off with a two-lens kit to cover that focal length range in terms of quality, except for the 18-250's, which are actually about as good. If quality doesn't matter, then by all means, get whatever happens to have the range you want and is cheap. But do keep in mind, again, that 28 is not very wide, and you'll probably end up carrying a second lens after all.
01-16-2010, 04:13 PM   #19
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Well what I need to do first is read some liturature on lenses and such, I have alot to learn about what all the numbers mean.

01-16-2010, 04:41 PM   #20
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What works for me

I am by no means any type of authority as I am new to photography but I purchased a Quantary f 4-5.6 70-300mm Tele-Macro that goes 1:2 and is very versitile for me until my skills improve. I very much like the IQ although it is not in the same league as the fast 300 primes but it isn't designed to be....

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