Total picture wash flash problem

enoeske · 01-21-2010, 08:41 PM

it wouldn't hurt to post an example so we can leaf through the exif data

MikesChevelle · 01-21-2010, 08:42 PM

is there not a way to control my flash, other than buying an external one

MikesChevelle · 01-21-2010, 08:48 PM

Originally posted by enoeske

it wouldn't hurt to post an example so we can leaf through the exif data

Um so the weirdest thing, I had been deleting them all, so I turned my camera on to take an other wash out and I got a perfect pic. Not sure what I did differently. ISO is on auto, shot on F5.6 at a shutter of 180. Really weird!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

MikesChevelle · 01-21-2010, 08:57 PM

Nevermind, new it was to good to be true

here is a pic. Aperture ring was set to 5.6, ISO on auto and shutter at 180 (fastest with the flash popped)

Attached Images

Jewelltrail · 01-21-2010, 09:00 PM

Lets forget about the Promaster lens for a minute and focus on the M 50mm--this will simplify things. If you are getting pics which are completely white, they have to be waaaaaaaaaaaaay overexposed--it is that simple. When using flash, you have 4 tools that control exposure: the flash; ISO; aperture setting; and shutter speed. But the flash always shoots max power with an M lens--nothing you can control here. You have full control of the other 3 variables though.

Switch to manual mode. Take the M lens in your hand, manually stop it down to f8, and look through the lens to insure it has stopped down, that it is not stuck wide open--before you slap it back on the camera. Next, set the shutter speed for 1/40th. Finally, set the ISO to 100. Now, if you are indoors and you shoot at these settings, there is no way you can overexpose the shot to the point that it washes out completely white. I do not own an Ist DL, but I'm confident the on-board flash is not powerful enough to wash out a pic, when the other settings are as described above.

Do this, and let us know what you get. From what you describe, it really sounds like the lens is stuck wide open, even though you tell us you see it opening and closing. So, be sure it is stopped down to f8, before you mount it on the Ist and shoot. n And be sure the other settings are as described.

bogiesbad · 01-21-2010, 09:05 PM

Originally posted by MikesChevelle

Well if I turn the apurture ring I can see the diaphram opening and closing. I guess I just need to read the manual to figure this one out.

I do not have a green button though on my ist DL?

It was mentioned in an earlier post but I'm not sure you understood. When using older lenses you must allow the use of an aperture ring in the camera's menu.
Read this thread: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/59272-shooting-...x-dslrs-f.html
Sorry if I misunderstood and you know this already.

ma318 · 01-21-2010, 09:10 PM

The flash on your ISTDL is rated with Guide number: 51 (at ISO200/feet) or 15.6 (at ISO200/meter)

That means if you are using ISO 200, you should set your aperature to:

aperture = 51 / camera to subject distance in feet

e.g. if your subject is 10 feet away, then use f5.6 (which is closest to 5.1)

if you double your ISO, then you multiply the Guidenumber by 1.44

e.g. ISO 400, Guide number is 73.4 (feet)

in all cases, set your shutter speed to 1/180 (you can go slower but not higher than this)

Note: this should get you pretty close, but if you find it still a little too bright use the next smaller aperture (larger f number), if it is too dark use the next larger aperture (smaller f number) or you could just physically move forward or backward.

Last edited by ma318; 01-22-2010 at 12:08 AM.

MikesChevelle · 01-21-2010, 09:13 PM

here is an other one

ma318 · 01-21-2010, 09:20 PM

Did you use the above procedures to set your ISO, aperture and shutter speed to take this photo?

aleonx3 · 01-21-2010, 09:27 PM

Judging from the pictures taken, there are overexposed with the flash. Do you have one taken without the flash?

MikesChevelle · 01-21-2010, 09:28 PM

Well the more pics I take, the better it gets. I have shot the last few in ap priority mode and its not the worst. Also I noticed that I cannot set the flash to any auto setting.

MikesChevelle · 01-21-2010, 09:31 PM

Same settings with the flash down

basso4735 · 01-21-2010, 09:41 PM

Are you adjusting the aperture on the lens or camera? Because you cannot control the aperture with that lens from the camera.

mtroute · 01-21-2010, 09:41 PM

make sure your shooting mode is not set to auto bracket. I have done this and spent 30 mins pulling my hair out trying to figure out why I was only getting 1 good shot out of every 3...

MikesChevelle · 01-21-2010, 09:53 PM

Originally posted by basso4735

Are you adjusting the aperture on the lens or camera? Because you cannot control the aperture with that lens from the camera.

I am turning the ap ring

Originally posted by mtroute

make sure your shooting mode is not set to auto bracket. I have done this and spent 30 mins pulling my hair out trying to figure out why I was only getting 1 good shot out of every 3...

In my menu, there is not an option to turn off auto bracketing, just two settings in the auto bracket menu

EDIT: In drive mode, I am NOT in auto braket mode.

Its weird sometimes I turn the camera on an everything is good, and others its not. I guess Ill use this 50mm prime for daytime, non flash shots and use my AF ProMaster for indoor shots

01-21-2010, 09:13 PM	#23
MikesChevelle Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: STL Photos: Gallery Posts: 119 Original Poster	here is an other one Attached Images

01-21-2010, 09:31 PM	#27
MikesChevelle Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: STL Photos: Gallery Posts: 119 Original Poster	Same settings with the flash down Attached Images

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01-21-2010, 08:41 PM	#16
enoeske Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Surprise, Az Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,136	it wouldn't hurt to post an example so we can leaf through the exif data

01-21-2010, 08:42 PM	#17
MikesChevelle Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: STL Photos: Gallery Posts: 119 Original Poster	is there not a way to control my flash, other than buying an external one

01-21-2010, 08:48 PM	#18
MikesChevelle Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: STL Photos: Gallery Posts: 119 Original Poster	Originally posted by enoeske it wouldn't hurt to post an example so we can leaf through the exif data Um so the weirdest thing, I had been deleting them all, so I turned my camera on to take an other wash out and I got a perfect pic. Not sure what I did differently. ISO is on auto, shot on F5.6 at a shutter of 180. Really weird!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!?!

01-21-2010, 08:57 PM	#19
MikesChevelle Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: STL Photos: Gallery Posts: 119 Original Poster	Nevermind, new it was to good to be true here is a pic. Aperture ring was set to 5.6, ISO on auto and shutter at 180 (fastest with the flash popped) Attached Images

01-21-2010, 09:00 PM	#20
Jewelltrail Veteran Member Join Date: May 2008 Location: Rhode Island Photos: Albums Posts: 4,180	Lets forget about the Promaster lens for a minute and focus on the M 50mm--this will simplify things. If you are getting pics which are completely white, they have to be waaaaaaaaaaaaay overexposed--it is that simple. When using flash, you have 4 tools that control exposure: the flash; ISO; aperture setting; and shutter speed. But the flash always shoots max power with an M lens--nothing you can control here. You have full control of the other 3 variables though. Switch to manual mode. Take the M lens in your hand, manually stop it down to f8, and look through the lens to insure it has stopped down, that it is not stuck wide open--before you slap it back on the camera. Next, set the shutter speed for 1/40th. Finally, set the ISO to 100. Now, if you are indoors and you shoot at these settings, there is no way you can overexpose the shot to the point that it washes out completely white. I do not own an Ist DL, but I'm confident the on-board flash is not powerful enough to wash out a pic, when the other settings are as described above. Do this, and let us know what you get. From what you describe, it really sounds like the lens is stuck wide open, even though you tell us you see it opening and closing. So, be sure it is stopped down to f8, before you mount it on the Ist and shoot. n And be sure the other settings are as described.

01-21-2010, 09:05 PM	#21
bogiesbad Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Lower AL Photos: Albums Posts: 355	Originally posted by MikesChevelle Well if I turn the apurture ring I can see the diaphram opening and closing. I guess I just need to read the manual to figure this one out. I do not have a green button though on my ist DL? It was mentioned in an earlier post but I'm not sure you understood. When using older lenses you must allow the use of an aperture ring in the camera's menu. Read this thread: https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-beginners-corner-q/59272-shooting-...x-dslrs-f.html Sorry if I misunderstood and you know this already.

01-21-2010, 09:10 PM	#22
ma318 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: BC, Canada Photos: Gallery Posts: 174	The flash on your ISTDL is rated with Guide number: 51 (at ISO200/feet) or 15.6 (at ISO200/meter) That means if you are using ISO 200, you should set your aperature to: aperture = 51 / camera to subject distance in feet e.g. if your subject is 10 feet away, then use f5.6 (which is closest to 5.1) if you double your ISO, then you multiply the Guidenumber by 1.44 e.g. ISO 400, Guide number is 73.4 (feet) in all cases, set your shutter speed to 1/180 (you can go slower but not higher than this) Note: this should get you pretty close, but if you find it still a little too bright use the next smaller aperture (larger f number), if it is too dark use the next larger aperture (smaller f number) or you could just physically move forward or backward. Last edited by ma318; 01-22-2010 at 12:08 AM.

01-21-2010, 09:20 PM	#24
ma318 Senior Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: BC, Canada Photos: Gallery Posts: 174	Did you use the above procedures to set your ISO, aperture and shutter speed to take this photo?

01-21-2010, 09:27 PM	#25
aleonx3 Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brampton, Ontario Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,996	Judging from the pictures taken, there are overexposed with the flash. Do you have one taken without the flash?

01-21-2010, 09:28 PM	#26
MikesChevelle Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: STL Photos: Gallery Posts: 119 Original Poster	Well the more pics I take, the better it gets. I have shot the last few in ap priority mode and its not the worst. Also I noticed that I cannot set the flash to any auto setting.

01-21-2010, 09:41 PM	#28
basso4735 Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: MA Posts: 133	Are you adjusting the aperture on the lens or camera? Because you cannot control the aperture with that lens from the camera.

01-21-2010, 09:41 PM	#29
mtroute Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Portland OR Posts: 533	make sure your shooting mode is not set to auto bracket. I have done this and spent 30 mins pulling my hair out trying to figure out why I was only getting 1 good shot out of every 3...

01-21-2010, 09:53 PM	#30
MikesChevelle Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: STL Photos: Gallery Posts: 119 Original Poster	Originally posted by basso4735 Are you adjusting the aperture on the lens or camera? Because you cannot control the aperture with that lens from the camera. I am turning the ap ring Originally posted by mtroute make sure your shooting mode is not set to auto bracket. I have done this and spent 30 mins pulling my hair out trying to figure out why I was only getting 1 good shot out of every 3... In my menu, there is not an option to turn off auto bracketing, just two settings in the auto bracket menu EDIT: In drive mode, I am NOT in auto braket mode. Its weird sometimes I turn the camera on an everything is good, and others its not. I guess Ill use this 50mm prime for daytime, non flash shots and use my AF ProMaster for indoor shots