Originally posted by Snydly I know I should do a search, but thought I would hit some of you experts up with a beginner question.
Polarizers...
Linear, Circular...
What am I supposed to see? I look for reflections on screen, or the water in the pond behind our home, and I eliminate them by turning the filter. Am I doing this correctly? I've seen the pictures of 'with' and 'without' but don't see the results.
When I turn the filter, I get two spots on the 360 degree circle that brighten the viewfinder, and two that darken as well as eliminate shadows. Is the latter the correct position.
When would you use a linear vs a circular?
I want to expand a bit on polarizers. Technicallities first:
A polarizer will reduce reflections on non-metallic surfaces, i.e. on all surfaces that are not conductive, by removing those parts of the light which are polarized at an 90 deg angle to the polarizer's own pass-through-angle. You can imagine a polarizer to be a simple fence with parallel rods. Only the light passes through the fence which oscillates parallel to the fence rods, whereas light perpendicualr to the rods will be stopped by the fence.
1. polarizers only work noticeably, when there is polarized light! That means, that on dull, foggy, misty etc, days, they won't show much or any effect at all.
2. on sunny days with clear skies, a large proportion of the sun light is polarized. On these days a polarizer works best. It removes a large proportion of the polarized light and thus the blue sky gets darker. On esuch a day foilage, water surfaces etc. will also reflect a large amount of that naturally polarized sun light and that can be removed with the polarizing filter.
You will then see an increase in saturation of greens etc. And you may be able, to look through the water surfgace and see the sand and pebbles etc. on the ground, which otherwise would be hidden by the reflecting water surface.
The same effect works with glass windows, if you place the polarizing filter at an agle with the glass and the incoming light.
3. polarizers have no officially "correct" position (they are no politicians…) You need not use them at full throttle. Sometimes just a slight application looks much better, because removing too much reflectios on foilage and achieving a really dar blue sky simply looks unnatural.
With the rotating filter mount, it is easy to find a pleasing position.
4. Circular versus Linear Polarizing Filters: As Mike Cash and Just1MoreDave have already written, there is in most cases no real need for a CPL.
A linear polarizer will only affect camera exposure meters, when they are located behind a secondary mirror (split beam mirrors), which was mainly the case with some film cameras like the Pentax LX. In our Pentax DSLRs the meter cell is located in the prism housing (a very traditional design) and is thus not affected by the polarization, that such a split-beam mirror introduces. A polarizing split-beam mirror + a linear polarizing filter would irritate the exposure system massively.
What can be affected is the AF sensor. But not by giving fals reading (and off focus), but only, because a linear polarizer would let much less light through to the AF sensor, than a CPL. That means, the AF sensor may stop working with a linear polarizer, under not so bright light.
BUT as a polarizer mainly makes sense (see above) for use under bright sun light (we are not discussing studio use!) the effect in reality is negligible. Under bad light you wonÄt use a polarizer usually, as it does not show much effect anyway.
Ben
P.S. about IR others have written already more knowledgeable, than I could.