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03-22-2010, 06:02 AM   #1
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settings for fa50/1.4

I received my first prime lens this weekend. I played with it mosly in the Aperture mode and wasnt impressed with the first 50 shots i took. I was mostly wide open or f/2 indoors with the iso at 200-400 with flash off. outdoors i was at f/2 to f/4 at iso 200. I would like to know what settings do most people use for indoors and outdoors. should i be using built in flash along with it? i am mostly taking indoor family pics of my newborn (doesnt move a lot) and 3 year old (guessed it right, doesnt stay still).
thanks in advance
gb

03-22-2010, 06:20 AM   #2
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It would be helpful to know what is it you are not impressed with and post some pictures that you are not happy with.. Whats the shutterspeed you use in those shots?
03-22-2010, 06:23 AM   #3
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You won't be happy with any fast lens unless you have your focusing dialed in precisely, so make sure you've done that.
To be fair to the FA50/1.4, it isn't an especially sharp lens until around f/2.8, at which point it becomes very good indeed.
03-22-2010, 06:38 AM   #4
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QuoteOriginally posted by gbandi Quote
I received my first prime lens this weekend. I played with it mosly in the Aperture mode and wasnt impressed with the first 50 shots i took. I was mostly wide open or f/2 indoors with the iso at 200-400 with flash off. outdoors i was at f/2 to f/4 at iso 200. I would like to know what settings do most people use for indoors and outdoors. should i be using built in flash along with it? i am mostly taking indoor family pics of my newborn (doesnt move a lot) and 3 year old (guessed it right, doesnt stay still).
thanks in advance
gb
Show us the unimpressive images. Otherwise it is impossible to give any advice or even guess, what might be improved.

Ben

03-22-2010, 07:12 AM   #5
hcc
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I agree with all earlier posts that you should explain what is wrong with your photograph.

With my 58mm f1.4, I set the camera to the P-mode and the lens to A (automaic aperure) 98% of the time both indoor and outdoor. The focusing is however the most important point since the DOF is usually very small. The Nokton 58mm is manual focus and I learned a lot with it. I typically shoot outdoor and indoor without flash. There are few situations where I found that the flash adds some nice features indoor.

Hope that the comment might help ...
03-22-2010, 07:39 AM   #6
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You can definately get useable images wide open, but you will be disappointed if you are looking for tack sharpness.

I try to stay above f2 at all times with mine. JMO
03-22-2010, 09:07 AM   #7
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I got this lens fairly recently and have been practicing with it. Here are two shots at F1.4 from last night. I was surprised at just how much more is in focus in the first photo than the second. (I expected results more like the second photo.)

Settings: 50mm, F1.4, 1/80s (Av mode)

ISO3200


ISO1600
03-22-2010, 09:26 AM   #8
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That first shot is great for f1.4 indeed.

03-22-2010, 10:01 AM   #9
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who's in charge?

I do whatever the K20D says. It's smarter than me. But when I do take control of the FA50/1.4, I'll try various settings, see what works. I think it's generally most important to have a fast enough shutter speed and a steady enough hand. Dad shot us active kids indoors and out with a 80/3.5 TLR on ASA 100 film. His trick: wait for the right moment, and never shoot slower than 1/100 sec (preferably faster).

A suggestion: on my K20D's Custom Menu is an item setting the Program Line. Your default, when using P(rogram) mode, is Normal. There's also Hi-Speed Priority and Depth-of-Field Priority, and MTF Priority. That last tries to make the best setting for the specific DA, D FA, FA, or FA J lens being used. You could try all those priorities, see what works best for you.
03-22-2010, 10:41 AM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by gbandi Quote
I received my first prime lens this weekend. I played with it mosly in the Aperture mode and wasnt impressed with the first 50 shots i took. I was mostly wide open or f/2 indoors with the iso at 200-400 with flash off. outdoors i was at f/2 to f/4 at iso 200.
If you aren't familiar with the idea of depth of field, google that term. very little will be in focus at f/2. Also, the FA50/1.4 won't be as sharp at f/2 as it is at f/4 or higher even in the places where it is in focus. Beyond that, I agree with everyne else who says you need to post pictures and explain what you don't like about them. There are no magic settings to produce good pictures. As with every lens and every camera ever made, it's about choosing the aperture to get the DOF, level of sharpness *you* want, having an appropriate shutter speed to control blur the wa *you* want, and choosing an appropriate ISO to let you balance the other two factor against noise the way *you* want. Until you can describe exactly what *you* want, and understand how those effects are the direct result of the aperture, shutter speed, and ISo *you* choose, there's nothing anyone can really do to improve your pictures for you.
03-22-2010, 12:44 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by twokatmew Quote
I got this lens fairly recently and have been practicing with it. Here are two shots at F1.4 from last night. I was surprised at just how much more is in focus in the first photo than the second. (I expected results more like the second photo.)
I think the reason is that in the first photo, there's a lot more that's "in line" across the photo. In the second one, the only thing "in line" is the cat's nose.

Both photo's, however, are good examples (IMHO) of what DOF can and can't do.
03-22-2010, 01:02 PM   #12
Igilligan
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My favorite settings for the FA 50 1.4

Is setting on the shelf... while I use the Helios 44M f2 or Cosina 55 1.2.


At wide apertures you are better off using Manual focus lenses imho.


-edit- this was said in jest... I do not want the boo birds poopin' all over me again.
But honestly even with the FA 50 I would put it in MF at F1.4

Last edited by Igilligan; 03-22-2010 at 01:17 PM.
03-26-2010, 03:24 PM   #13
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One thing someone here told me ages ago, when you're shooting at very narrow depth of field (1.4-2.0) alway focus on the eyes, if they're sharp, you can put up with a little oof elsewhere. Also, focus-lock-frame can give spotty results--moving the camera even slightly tends to mess up the plane of focus. One thing I miss about the old k100 vs. my new kx is that I could easily move the autofocus point to frame the shot in low-light situations.
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