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04-21-2010, 10:31 AM   #1
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IST-d newbie with blur problems

Recently I have finally had an opportunity to sift through some Dinsey photos and am noticing something that is bothersome to me. Many of the shots are blurred on the subject and focused on another part of the photo.
Also I am noticing blurr all together, this appears to have occurred in Low light. I think that the solution for the all blurr is the flash (not the onboard, I do have a attached external flash) because of the low lighting.
The other I am not so sure about. I think it is because I am using the tamrom 70-300mm which is a heavy lens so there is shake going on, but I dont get if this could be happeningwhy is another part of the photo in focus.

It could also be that I think I have carpel tunnel, Constantly my wrists are a bother as well
as tendons/muscles from my fingers to my shoulders. I think this is probably the #1 cause of every
thing myself, but I am in denial this is really it, beacuse i do not want to give up this hobby.
Any ideas? here are a couple examples in the reply

04-21-2010, 11:32 AM   #2
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photos

sorry these are links..I cant get them to embed

IMGP9567 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!


IMGP9222 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!


IMGP9120 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!

IMGP0733 on Flickr - Photo Sharing!
04-21-2010, 12:24 PM   #3
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The last flower shot looks pretty good to me, especially at 300mm from the Tamron. Is that Macro mode on the lens? The owl looks fair but IS slightly blurry. The Dessert looks like camera shake and the other flower, is underexposed and out of focus. The Stamen area looks pretty good though. Was there any wind blowing (a tyical nemesis of mine when trying to do flower shots)..

Welcome to the forum..

04-21-2010, 12:30 PM   #4
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Looks like you have some focus issues mostly, I'm not sure exactly what could be causing that, but what point do you have your autofocus set on? Is it the center point or is it just set on auto? That would probably explain it as I notice that there's something totally in focus in each photo, but it's just not what you want to be, and the old *ist DS autofocus system has a tendency to focus on the wrong thing sometimes unless you use the center point and recompose.

04-21-2010, 12:32 PM   #5
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Definitely shake. The DS does not have shake reduction, 3/4 of these would have turned out sharp (most of the time) with a K100D or newer model camera. Without shake reduction you have to shoot (as a general rule) 1/focal length - so, at 300mm, since pentax dslrs have a 1.5x crop you should shoot at least 1/450th (300mm x 1.5 crop) to get a reasonably sharp photo. Shake reduction would get you 2-4 stops slower shutter speed (somewhere between 1/60 and 1/125 would be useable at 300mm with shake reduction).

#1, 3 and 4 are pretty close (the depth of field is very shallow, but the parts that should be in focus show signs of shake), while #2 has obvious shake.

Also, if you think (by the sounds of it) you might be shakier than average, then you would need to use even faster shutter speeds than the rule above.

Oh yeah, Welcome!
04-21-2010, 12:43 PM   #6
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Yea, I agree with the above poster. This is definitely from camera shake; if you look at the second photo you can clearly see the ghosting on the black card from the white lettering. Next time try to keep your shutter speed up by bumping up your ISO or opening up your lens more.
04-21-2010, 01:02 PM   #7
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That is the only one that experiences the camera shake since it was taken at 0.3 sec (definitely not safe hand held photography even with Shake Reduction on) but the rest of them have the same focus problem and are taken at much higher shutter speeds, hence my first reply about the focus points.
04-21-2010, 02:19 PM   #8
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Thank you very much for the opinions everyone

JEFF: The flower shot was using the macro on the lens. No wind was blowing, just a hot day in florida.

JCT: in regards to your observation about focusing issues, i think its my carpel tunnel. But i also question the AE metering I have set as well as the Switch distant msr point.
THe AE metering has 3 sets, full green coverage, coverage that looks like an eye and then a dot. I believe i keep it on the full setting
The Switch distant msr pt I dont even really know what it is, but mine is always set to auto. Other 2 options are a middle coverage a line of 3 dots with a line of 5 dots and a line again of 3 dots under that.
Flash exp comp is at 0.0

Would any of these being off cause it other than the possiblilty of shake with my bad hands that everyone mentioned.

04-21-2010, 03:46 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by bryankknight Quote
Thank you very much for the opinions everyone

JEFF: The flower shot was using the macro on the lens. No wind was blowing, just a hot day in florida.

JCT: in regards to your observation about focusing issues, i think its my carpel tunnel. But i also question the AE metering I have set as well as the Switch distant msr point.
THe AE metering has 3 sets, full green coverage, coverage that looks like an eye and then a dot. I believe i keep it on the full setting
The Switch distant msr pt I dont even really know what it is, but mine is always set to auto. Other 2 options are a middle coverage a line of 3 dots with a line of 5 dots and a line again of 3 dots under that.
Flash exp comp is at 0.0

Would any of these being off cause it other than the possiblilty of shake with my bad hands that everyone mentioned.
Your Metering modes are Matrix (the rows of lines), Center Weighted (the eye), and Spot (the dot). I prefer Spot but I've grown accustomed to using it and it is best used in full manual (M) exposure mode. It requires that you understand what your meter is telling you. Most others favor the other two. Center weighted (the eye) will expose mostly for the center but take surrounding area into consideration. Matrix tries to consider Everything and set an average exposure for the reading.

Just a Note, Your meter is always measuring the same. It is just that you are telling it What to use. That is, there are several meter points and you are simply telling the camera How to use and which ones to use. Changing the mode does not actually change the meter.

04-22-2010, 02:10 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by bryankknight Quote
The Switch distant msr pt I dont even really know what it is, but mine is always set to auto.
That's probably your problem right there. Setting it to "auto" is telling the camera you want *something* in the picture to be in focus, but you don't care what. Sounds like that's exactly what you got.

The other modes are center and user-select respectively. In center, you are at telling the camera you want the *center* in focus (so you'd point the camera directly at the subject half-press the shutter to focus, then recompose and finish pressing the shutter). In user-select mode, you use the four-way controller at the back of the camera to control where the focus is - you'll see a red dot moving around the screen.
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