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05-06-2010, 09:24 PM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by gp1806 Quote
I would go with filling the holes. I would try gluing in a plastic rods ( PVC, not styrene ) with a special plastic glue, and then drilling to fit the screws. See your local hobby shop for plastic rods and glue. Even filled with a good glue, like a slow set epoxy should do. Don't use 5 minute epoxy, it is more brittle than slow set
nice idea but not doable --the screw holes are tiny, only about 1 to 1.5 mm wide

05-07-2010, 06:03 AM   #17
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You don't say the it is electronically dead, so if there is life I agree with gp1806 above. The professional fix will be prohibitive so why not have a go? It may be as simple as a mechanical repair by rebuilding the internal threads with epoxy. I would apply the Araldite to the screws in tiny amounts and wind them in carefully. I'm guessing that they would take a little "weight" before they slip. Then clamp it all together for 24 hrs. Those 5 screws might even be helped by judicious epoxy between body and mount ring. Meths is a great solvent for Araldite until it hardens. You would be able to disassemble with heat: careful local application with an electronics soldering iron should be sufficient to soften the Araldite to unwind the screws. I'm not game to look behind my mount ring but I'd like to think that the damage is mechanical. Wot's to lose? Good luck whatever. I love fixing things but I hope I'm never faced with this one.
05-08-2010, 06:27 PM   #18
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It would probably be much cheaper to buy another K200D and keep this one for parts tbh.
05-09-2010, 01:31 AM   #19
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I'd simply reattach the mount myself. What there is to loose?
Well except weather sealing maybe.

05-09-2010, 06:29 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by JohnBee Quote
It would probably be much cheaper to buy another K200D and keep this one for parts tbh.
I don't understand: what could be cheaper than a tube of Araldite?
Wot's there to lose? No need for drilling and tapping and trying to find or manufacture oversize screws. The Araldite will flow into the thread and hold the screws firmly. If you don't like it or it doesn't work it is reversible.
As for weathersealing, Araldite is pretty water resistant.
My suggestion may be unconventional but I don't think it's silly.
Just one thought: if the screw holes are not blind excess Araldite could flow through to the innards. Less is better. Araldite gets thicker as it sets, but still flows slowly. Maybe leave the assembly until it starts getting toffee-like.

Last edited by cosmicap; 05-09-2010 at 06:33 AM. Reason: an afterthought!
05-09-2010, 11:41 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by kevinfox203 Quote
nice idea but not doable --the screw holes are tiny, only about 1 to 1.5 mm wide
Don't say this until you look. My local hobby shop has plastic rod all the way down to less than 1mm. They have large selection of different glues, and they have drill bits in very small sizes as well. Look for a hobby shop that caters to model railroaders. N scale trains are very small, and need small plastic for structures around the layout.
05-09-2010, 11:52 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by gp1806 Quote
Don't say this until you look. My local hobby shop has plastic rod all the way down to less than 1mm. They have large selection of different glues, and they have drill bits in very small sizes as well. Look for a hobby shop that caters to model railroaders. N scale trains are very small, and need small plastic for structures around the layout.
Inserting a rod approximately the same size as is the screw would not be reliable. The rod has to be fairly larger, otherwise it will be completely destroyed while drilling hole and screwing screw.

To insert plastic rod you'd have to drill holes anyway - to make nice even walls for rods. Because of this they should be drilled larger. But not so large, that there is only few mm left between the rods and sides of mirror chamber / body outer surface. This would make the body much more fragile.

For 1mm screw's i'd go with 3mm+ rods, so there is at least 1mm of solid plastic around each screw.

Another option could be to ask some good mechanic to drill new holes in mount and new holes for screws in camera. But this way you'd never know where you are drilling.
05-09-2010, 02:21 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by cosmicap Quote
I don't understand: what could be cheaper than a tube of Araldite?
Wot's there to lose? No need for drilling and tapping and trying to find or manufacture oversize screws. The Araldite will flow into the thread and hold the screws firmly. If you don't like it or it doesn't work it is reversible.
As for weathersealing, Araldite is pretty water resistant.
My suggestion may be unconventional but I don't think it's silly.
Just one thought: if the screw holes are not blind excess Araldite could flow through to the innards. Less is better. Araldite gets thicker as it sets, but still flows slowly. Maybe leave the assembly until it starts getting toffee-like.
Is my suggestion so silly that it does not warrant a comment? I say Araldite because it's what I use. Doubtless there are more advanced solutions now. I'll stick with Araldite until someone comes up with something superior. If the threads are redrilled to accept the rods surely there can only be friction preventing them from withdrawing? Aside from the obvious that friction holds everything together anyway I would expect that Araldite set into the damaged threads would be a much more secure anchor. If the threads are filled and allowed to set they could be redrilled undersize enough to allow the screws to self tap which would squeeze the epoxy against the threads proving extra friction. I think a "wet pour" would provide sufficient anchor.
I'd love to hear a comment!


Last edited by cosmicap; 05-09-2010 at 02:23 PM. Reason: Bad gramar and speling.
05-09-2010, 09:17 PM   #24
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I want to thank all for your very thoughtful ideas and suggestions.

I must say that the responses i received were completely unexpected. Am I on Pop Mechanics Forum? I thought Araldite was a media crazed Hollywood-brat lawyer
Seriously, I guess my inquiry was misunderstood. What i was really looking for was an opinion as to whether the damage described sounded like something that could be repaired by Pentax at a reasonable cost.

I'm nowhere near brave enough to start drilling holes, inserting rods and/or glues--I'd f**k it up guaranteed!...and then surely be left with a further damaged camera.

Anyway, it's going in to Pentax. Sorry if i disappointed some of you NASA guys. I'll let you know what happens,

In the meantime... I'm reconsidering the K20D (and it's heavier weight). I have an opportunity to buy a used but mint K20D for $560 CAN. Only 1500 actuations, good price?

Thanks again.

Last edited by kevinfox203; 05-09-2010 at 09:48 PM.
05-10-2010, 05:41 AM   #25
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Best of luck with Pentax. Please post the results.
Pop Mechanics? NASA? Tee hee!
05-22-2010, 09:31 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by cosmicap Quote
Best of luck with Pentax. Please post the results.
So I got a quote from Pentax Canada-- $340 + tax to repair the mount and auto focus which was apparently also damaged in the drop. I guess I'll get it done. it's pricey but the camera only has 2200 actuations on it . Pentax already has $50 of my money for estimate- goes toward cost of repair if I get it done, no refund if I don't.

What do you think, $340 too much? I just want something to hold me over to a new midrange model next year (K5/K300d?) I dont like the the Kx and K-7 for reasons mentioned earlier.

Last edited by kevinfox203; 05-22-2010 at 10:09 PM.
05-24-2010, 04:15 PM   #27
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You probably shouldn't assume there will ever be a new mid-range model.

Paul
05-24-2010, 07:09 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by tibbitts Quote
You probably shouldn't assume there will ever be a new mid-range model.

Paul
For me mid-range = Kx with top lcd, AF points, weather seal, bigger & better build. i could handle the K-7 new price but it just felt very uncomfortable in my hands- especially don't like the reccess/dimple on the front of the grip, though I realize the design was probably to compensate for the overall smaller dimensions of the camera's grip. Also, the k-7 grip material felt very hard/slippery compared to the k200d's more 'rubbery' feel.
Feel is very important to me. I'll go with my K200d until Pentax addresses my needs- up until 2012- If not maybe I'll have to switch brands.

Last edited by kevinfox203; 05-24-2010 at 08:38 PM.
05-24-2010, 07:51 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by kevinfox203 Quote
For me mid-range = Kx with top lcd, AF points, weather seal, bigger & better build. i could handle the K-7 new price but it just felt very uncomfortable in my hands- especially don't like the reccess/dimple on the front of the grip, though I realize it was probably neccessary to compensate for the overall smaller dimensions of the camera. Also, the k-7 grip material felt very hard/slippery compared to the k200d's more 'rubbery' feel.
Feel is very important to me. I'll go with my K200d until Pentax addresses my needs- up until 2012- If not maybe I'll have to switch brands.
I'm with you Kevin. The handling and feel of my K200D are great - but to be honest, I haven't handled the K7 seriously.

My daughter has the Kx and I find its a bit small for me, and lacks some of the K200D features as you suggest (top LCD and DOF preview in particular, and the weather sealing has saved me on more than one occasion). Its menus are good though, the sensor is of course everyone's favourite at the moment, and it focuses faster.

On the other hand, you could buy a used K200D - there are a few in the Marketplace at the moment for about the repair cost.
Good luck!

Cheers
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