Can my K200d be repaired?

kevinfox203 · 05-02-2010, 08:21 PM

My K200 got knocked off a table and hit hardwood floors. I'll try to describe the damage as I cant provide a pic: the lens mount ring ripped right off the body. The lens must have hit the floor first at an angle. i was left with the lens separated from the body with the mount ring attached to it, the screws came right out with it. So the body is bare> no mount ring. screws and all pulled right off. The lens appears to have escaped damage - I was able to remove the mount ring from it and it looks fine- kudos to the 50-200mm build.

Sound like this is repairable damage to the K200d??

I hope so because otherwise I'll be stuck waiting for a new model release- the K-x is too small for my hands (and missing 2 features I want: top-side lcd and viewfinder AF points ) and the K7 is beyond my budget.

Last edited by kevinfox203; 05-02-2010 at 08:56 PM.

yeatzee · 05-02-2010, 08:30 PM

Why not ask Pentax in the morning?

SpecialK · 05-02-2010, 09:12 PM

Sorry to hear that.

Pentax will want you to send it to them for an estimate. If the threads on the holes stripped or the flange is bent, it might get pricey. The screws stripping out would be the cheapest fix.

You might look at the K20D which includes the two features you are looking for. No doubt some lightly-used copies are floating around as people upgrade.

**Rondec** · 05-03-2010, 05:57 AM

Anything can be fixed, the question is really more if it is worth it to you. I doubt that it is worth the price of sending it for an estimate to get it done. The reality is that there are plenty of K10s/K20s out there that you could spend on instead. Often there are loosened connections internally after such a fall and you will develop problems down the road.

**felixkh** · 05-03-2010, 06:17 AM

Get a 2nd hand K20D instead

Daveinozbikes · 05-03-2010, 06:59 AM

The K20d is the same as the K200d plus some.... I owned the K200d for about six months and sold it to buy a lightly used K20d.

Never regretted it for a moment for lots of reasons....it will be a long time before I sell it.

Sooooo...if the repair is too expensive sell it and is and get a K20d. You won"r regret it.
Best of Luck Dave

yeatzee · 05-03-2010, 05:54 PM

for the record, I know how bad it sucks. My K200d's mode dial recently scrambled meaning I lost key modes greatly inhibiting my ability. I sent it in for an estimate and they wanted over $200..... I refused and was able to work out a plan with my parents. I now own a brand new K-7, with my K200d as a backup

(im 16)

kevinfox203 · 05-04-2010, 09:58 PM

Originally posted by SpecialK

Sorry to hear that.

Pentax will want you to send it to them for an estimate. If the threads on the holes stripped or the flange is bent, it might get pricey. The screws stripping out would be the cheapest fix.

You might look at the K20D which includes the two features you are looking for. No doubt some lightly-used copies are floating around as people upgrade.

Had a closer look- seems the screw holes are stripped out. I would have expected the screws to be fastened to the metal frame but nope, to the plastic body instead.
Had my hands on a K-x today. I just didn't feel substantial enough- felt like if it was dropped it would be in 100 pieces. Not that the weight and 'ruggedness' of the the K200d did me much good.

Blue · 05-04-2010, 10:02 PM

I suppose if the mirror mechanism and electronics are fine, you could put a screwmount on it and get another body for regular use.

kevinfox203 · 05-04-2010, 10:07 PM

Originally posted by Daveinozbikes

The K20d is the same as the K200d plus some.... I owned the K200d for about six months and sold it to buy a lightly used K20d.

Never regretted it for a moment for lots of reasons....it will be a long time before I sell it.

Sooooo...if the repair is too expensive sell it and is and get a K20d. You won"r regret it.
Best of Luck Dave

I looked at the specs of the K20d: it's a 100g heavier than the k200d. Too heavy. guess i'm hard to please -the kx is not sturdy enough and the K20d is over the top. guess Im paying to get the k200d fixed.

EDIT 05/22: extra weight of the k20d isnt an issue after all- Ive been using NiMHs in my K200d which makes the weight very close to a K20d.

**tomwil** · 05-05-2010, 11:19 AM

Originally posted by kevinfox203

Had a closer look- seems the screw holes are stripped out. I would have expected the screws to be fastened to the metal frame but nope, to the plastic body instead.

Couldn't fatter screws be used to fasten the ring to the stripped-out holes in the body? Or, could the holes be filled in with something like epoxy, and re-tapped?

I don't know what would happen with the electrical contacts, though. The camera might have to be in manual mode permanently?

**ChipB** · 05-05-2010, 03:23 PM

Kevin, I went from an *ist DS (broke) to a K200D - great camera - then went to a K10D (not happy with it) and now have a K20D. MUCH better camera for the money - faster AF, better low light function, live view is really nice for close ups - all-in-all, I'm really happy I ended up with the K20D over the K200D.

Like you, I was concerned about the extra weight (I have arhritis in my hands/finders) but I find it balances nicely, specially with longer lenses. I also use one of those "egg" hand grips (have since the DS) and find it really helps me hold the camera.

Good luck whichever way you go.

kevinfox203 · 05-05-2010, 04:20 PM

Originally posted by tomwil

Couldn't fatter screws be used to fasten the ring to the stripped-out holes in the body? Or, could the holes be filled in with something like epoxy, and re-tapped?

I don't know what would happen with the electrical contacts, though. The camera might have to be in manual mode permanently?

Fatter screws won't fit through the mount ring that they are fastening.

I think the electrical contacts are fine. They protrude from the plastic case and the mount ring is screwed over top. the mount ring was tore off but the contacts appear undamaged..

kevinfox203 · 05-05-2010, 04:21 PM

Originally posted by ChipB

Kevin, I went from an *ist DS (broke) to a K200D - great camera - then went to a K10D (not happy with it) and now have a K20D. MUCH better camera for the money - faster AF, better low light function, live view is really nice for close ups - all-in-all, I'm really happy I ended up with the K20D over the K200D.

Like you, I was concerned about the extra weight (I have arhritis in my hands/finders) but I find it balances nicely, specially with longer lenses. I also use one of those "egg" hand grips (have since the DS) and find it really helps me hold the camera.

Good luck whichever way you go.

so i know of a used k20 with 1500 actuations on it selling for $560, good deal?

gp1806 · 05-06-2010, 12:37 PM

I would go with filling the holes. I would try gluing in a plastic rods ( PVC, not styrene ) with a special plastic glue, and then drilling to fit the screws. See your local hobby shop for plastic rods and glue. Even filled with a good glue, like a slow set epoxy should do. Don't use 5 minute epoxy, it is more brittle than slow set

05-02-2010, 08:21 PM	#1
kevinfox203 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Central Canada Posts: 156	Can my K200d be repaired? My K200 got knocked off a table and hit hardwood floors. I'll try to describe the damage as I cant provide a pic: the lens mount ring ripped right off the body. The lens must have hit the floor first at an angle. i was left with the lens separated from the body with the mount ring attached to it, the screws came right out with it. So the body is bare> no mount ring. screws and all pulled right off. The lens appears to have escaped damage - I was able to remove the mount ring from it and it looks fine- kudos to the 50-200mm build. Sound like this is repairable damage to the K200d?? I hope so because otherwise I'll be stuck waiting for a new model release- the K-x is too small for my hands (and missing 2 features I want: top-side lcd and viewfinder AF points ) and the K7 is beyond my budget. Last edited by kevinfox203; 05-02-2010 at 08:56 PM.

05-03-2010, 06:59 AM	#6
Daveinozbikes Senior Member Join Date: Dec 2008 Location: Dawesville,Western Australia. Photos: Gallery Posts: 128	Badly damaged K200d.... The K20d is the same as the K200d plus some.... I owned the K200d for about six months and sold it to buy a lightly used K20d. Never regretted it for a moment for lots of reasons....it will be a long time before I sell it. Sooooo...if the repair is too expensive sell it and is and get a K20d. You won"r regret it. Best of Luck Dave

05-04-2010, 10:07 PM	#10
kevinfox203 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Central Canada Posts: 156 Original Poster	Originally posted by Daveinozbikes The K20d is the same as the K200d plus some.... I owned the K200d for about six months and sold it to buy a lightly used K20d. Never regretted it for a moment for lots of reasons....it will be a long time before I sell it. Sooooo...if the repair is too expensive sell it and is and get a K20d. You won"r regret it. Best of Luck Dave I looked at the specs of the K20d: it's a 100g heavier than the k200d. Too heavy. guess i'm hard to please -the kx is not sturdy enough and the K20d is over the top. guess Im paying to get the k200d fixed. EDIT 05/22: extra weight of the k20d isnt an issue after all- Ive been using NiMHs in my K200d which makes the weight very close to a K20d. Last edited by kevinfox203; 05-22-2010 at 09:59 PM.

05-05-2010, 04:21 PM	#14
kevinfox203 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Central Canada Posts: 156 Original Poster	Originally posted by ChipB Kevin, I went from an ist DS (broke) to a K200D - great camera - then went to a K10D (not happy with it) and now have a K20D. MUCH better camera for the money - faster AF, better low light function, live view is really nice for close ups - all-in-all, I'm really happy I ended up with the K20D over the K200D. Like you, I was concerned about the extra weight (I have arhritis in my hands/finders) but I find it balances nicely, specially with longer lenses. I also use one of those "egg" hand grips (have since the DS) and find it really helps me hold the camera. Good luck whichever way you go. so i know of a used k20 with 1500 actuations on it selling for $560, good deal? Last edited by kevinfox203; 05-05-2010 at 06:16 PM.*

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05-02-2010, 08:30 PM	#2
yeatzee Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Temecula Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,675	Why not ask Pentax in the morning?

05-02-2010, 09:12 PM	#3
SpecialK Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: So California Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,480	Sorry to hear that. Pentax will want you to send it to them for an estimate. If the threads on the holes stripped or the flange is bent, it might get pricey. The screws stripping out would be the cheapest fix. You might look at the K20D which includes the two features you are looking for. No doubt some lightly-used copies are floating around as people upgrade.

05-03-2010, 05:57 AM	#4
Rondec Loyal Site Supporter Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Gladys, Virginia Photos: Gallery Posts: 27,653	Anything can be fixed, the question is really more if it is worth it to you. I doubt that it is worth the price of sending it for an estimate to get it done. The reality is that there are plenty of K10s/K20s out there that you could spend on instead. Often there are loosened connections internally after such a fall and you will develop problems down the road.

05-03-2010, 06:17 AM	#5
felixkh Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Singapore Photos: Gallery Posts: 1,201	Get a 2nd hand K20D instead

05-03-2010, 05:54 PM	#7
yeatzee Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Temecula Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,675	for the record, I know how bad it sucks. My K200d's mode dial recently scrambled meaning I lost key modes greatly inhibiting my ability. I sent it in for an estimate and they wanted over $200..... I refused and was able to work out a plan with my parents. I now own a brand new K-7, with my K200d as a backup (im 16)

05-04-2010, 09:58 PM	#8
kevinfox203 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Central Canada Posts: 156 Original Poster	Originally posted by SpecialK Sorry to hear that. Pentax will want you to send it to them for an estimate. If the threads on the holes stripped or the flange is bent, it might get pricey. The screws stripping out would be the cheapest fix. You might look at the K20D which includes the two features you are looking for. No doubt some lightly-used copies are floating around as people upgrade. Had a closer look- seems the screw holes are stripped out. I would have expected the screws to be fastened to the metal frame but nope, to the plastic body instead. Had my hands on a K-x today. I just didn't feel substantial enough- felt like if it was dropped it would be in 100 pieces. Not that the weight and 'ruggedness' of the the K200d did me much good.

05-04-2010, 10:02 PM	#9
Blue Moderator Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: Florida Hill Country Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 17,377	I suppose if the mirror mechanism and electronics are fine, you could put a screwmount on it and get another body for regular use.

05-05-2010, 11:19 AM	#11
tomwil Site Supporter Join Date: May 2009 Location: Maryland USA Posts: 778	Originally posted by kevinfox203 Had a closer look- seems the screw holes are stripped out. I would have expected the screws to be fastened to the metal frame but nope, to the plastic body instead. Couldn't fatter screws be used to fasten the ring to the stripped-out holes in the body? Or, could the holes be filled in with something like epoxy, and re-tapped? I don't know what would happen with the electrical contacts, though. The camera might have to be in manual mode permanently?

05-05-2010, 03:23 PM	#12
ChipB Site Supporter Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Eau Claire, WI Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 2,701	Kevin, I went from an *ist DS (broke) to a K200D - great camera - then went to a K10D (not happy with it) and now have a K20D. MUCH better camera for the money - faster AF, better low light function, live view is really nice for close ups - all-in-all, I'm really happy I ended up with the K20D over the K200D. Like you, I was concerned about the extra weight (I have arhritis in my hands/finders) but I find it balances nicely, specially with longer lenses. I also use one of those "egg" hand grips (have since the DS) and find it really helps me hold the camera. Good luck whichever way you go.

05-05-2010, 04:20 PM	#13
kevinfox203 Senior Member Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Central Canada Posts: 156 Original Poster	Originally posted by tomwil Couldn't fatter screws be used to fasten the ring to the stripped-out holes in the body? Or, could the holes be filled in with something like epoxy, and re-tapped? I don't know what would happen with the electrical contacts, though. The camera might have to be in manual mode permanently? Fatter screws won't fit through the mount ring that they are fastening. I think the electrical contacts are fine. They protrude from the plastic case and the mount ring is screwed over top. the mount ring was tore off but the contacts appear undamaged..

05-06-2010, 12:37 PM	#15
gp1806 Veteran Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Chicago suburbs Photos: Albums Posts: 848	I would go with filling the holes. I would try gluing in a plastic rods ( PVC, not styrene ) with a special plastic glue, and then drilling to fit the screws. See your local hobby shop for plastic rods and glue. Even filled with a good glue, like a slow set epoxy should do. Don't use 5 minute epoxy, it is more brittle than slow set