Originally posted by Reportage i find that its a tad erratic even in the best of times for my k20d. Can have extreme differences in iso for repeated shots of the same subject.
I use auto-ISO all the time on my K-x; never used it on the K10D - well, except when I used TAv, which was sometimes, but not often. (I found the four stops of 100 to 1600 too limiting, and had to keep metering all the time, anyway...)
Example of when I use it on the K-x: Shooting soccer, outdoors, using the DAL 55-300 (f/4 to f5.8). because I'm usually in the 150mm to 300mm FL, wide open usually means f/5 to f/5.8. Because it's moving action, I set the shutter speed to 1/400, sometimes 1/500 or even 1/640. I set the Auto ISO to go up to ISO 1600, maybe ISO 3200.
By doing this, the f/stop stays in the f/8 to f/11 range, which works better for me than being wide open at f/5.8: A little more DOF, a little stopped down to the sweet spot.
Now, I wouldn't do this with the K10D, because, even outdoors in good light, ISO 1600 was not kind on the K10D's CCD sensor. But the K-x, with it's great CMOS sensor and wonderful in-camera JPEG engine, I have zero fear shooting at ISO 1600, ISO 3200, even ISO 6400.
Another example: Shooting indoors w/o flash, I use Auto ISO up to 128K, often on P mode? Why? Because I use zooms, and not fixed-aperture zooms. So at 50mm or 60mm I could be at f/4, but at 150mm or 200mm I could be at f/5.6 In this case i don't like shooting in Av mode, because I feel like I need to keep changing the aperture as the FL changes; either that, or set the aperture stopped down for the longest FL, e.g., set it at f/8. Doing that indoors often causes the shutter speed to slow down too much for the focal length.
On the K10D, I often would shoot, chimp, change the ISO, and shoot again. On the K-x, I set the Auto ISO shoot, chimp, and am usually very happy with the results. I rarely have to re-shoot a scene because the shutter slowed down too much, and I got blur.
I have not confirmed this, or scientifically tested it, but from casual observance, in P mode with DA lenses the K-x seems to modify many parameters based on the lens being used and the FL. For instance, it knows when the DAL 55-300 is shooting at 55mm and when it's at 300mm, and it appears to modify all three parameters to keep a happy medium:
At 55mm, the K-x knows that f/5.6 is "stopped down one", and also that a shutter speed of 1/80 would generally suffice for camera shake. So it stays around there, and adjusts the ISO as needed. When the ISO is maxed at 6400 (or 128K, if i set it there), and 1/80 + f/5.6 still meters too dark, the K-x first opens to f/4, and then if it's still too dark, the K-x drops the shutter speed.
Again, this is not scientifically tested, but it seems to be what i have observed. And it's exactly how I would do it manually: bump up the ISO until you get to your "comfortable" max, then open the aperture, then drop the shutter speed. (Obviously Av mode would freeze the f/stop and go right to dropping the shutter speed. And Tv would freeze the shutter speed value, and open the f/stop.)
For the same lens, but shooting at 300mm in P mode, again, the K-x seems to intuitively do what I would do manually: It tries to keep the shutter around 1/200 or 1/250, which I assume would be the 1/FL rule, but adding a stop for SR. It also tries to keep the f/stop at f/8, i./e., stopped down one from wide open.
Set like this, the ISO increases as needed until it hits the max, then the f/stop opens more, and last, the shutter speed drops.
I will try to do some controlled tests, to see if I can nail this down and confirm it. But again, it seems an intuitive way to do P mode - or, at least, that's how I would do it manually.
Sorry for the long post. I guess I had more to say than I first thought when i started writing this....
Greg