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06-22-2010, 03:14 PM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by FullertonImages Quote
Sounds likea great choice. If you have an $$$ left over, I would consider adding the DA* 55/1.4, as I think that would really round things out. I've been eying that grouping for a while as my go to travel kit. You could really shoot just about anything with that kit. f/2.8 coverage from 16-50, f/4 coverage from 60-250, and super low light coverage right in between at 55.
I will absolutely be buying primes when I return home. The two zooms seemed like the best idea for over here as I can carry one on body and the second in a compact beltpack. 16-250 should cover almost anything and I have a compact tripod as well.

06-22-2010, 11:06 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by glanglois Quote
I don't immediately see a reference to filters.

This is a good opportunity to put the right UV filter in place to protect each lens. That fine sand will undoubtedly be a fine abrasive!

While I haven't done the research lately, there are a couple of lines that advertise their rugged coatings - coatings (and glass) that can withstand repeated cleaning. Which you will be doing. Even the wind blowing about will abrade the lens surface to some extent.

With these wonderful lenses, you want to protect their optical surfaces and be prepared to sacrifice a filter, if need be, to maintain the performance of that wonderful Pentax glass.

Take care and thanks for your dedication!
I bought two HOYA HMC UV filters and two polarized filters by hoya each lens will always have one on for protection. It's something that alway's should be recommended. I can't imagine buying a lens like the 60-250 for 1100-1200 dollars then not protecting the glass with a 40 dollar lens filter.
06-22-2010, 11:17 PM   #33
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Are those the multi-coated ones like the Pro1 range? I'd steer clear of cheap filters, especially with your nice new lenses.

UV filters are quite a debated topic, but I think they'd be a good idea in these dusty conditions, allowing you to wipe the front element quickly without any stress.
06-23-2010, 04:59 AM   #34
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QuoteOriginally posted by CWyatt Quote
Are those the multi-coated ones like the Pro1 range? I'd steer clear of cheap filters, especially with your nice new lenses.

UV filters are quite a debated topic, but I think they'd be a good idea in these dusty conditions, allowing you to wipe the front element quickly without any stress.
I went with Hoya hmc uv filters and hoya polarized filters. The uv will be on most of the time.

06-23-2010, 02:03 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by LeeRunge Quote
I went with Hoya hmc uv filters and hoya polarized filters. The uv will be on most of the time.
Had a quick look for the HMC ones but not sure what level they are. There's a great test online of many UV filters someone might be able to link too. I get the impression those are mid-level filters, which might be OK. But even well-priced 'pro' ones like the Pro1 range aren't much more. It's just you have very lovely lenses to be saving money on the filters you're going to put on them...
06-23-2010, 03:33 PM   #36
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Hoya's HMC (actually its S-HMC) are their mid-line filters. They have tested quite well in the past. Above that you have the Pro-1 line, which also have thinner frames (but still have front threads) to lessen vignetting, and then you have the HD line, which are supposed to be much more scratch resistant and are made of hardened glass. Personally, I prefer the Pro-1 Clear Protectors, as they have absolutely no effect on image quality, though there is a chance of added flare in certain situations. But I have never shot in Afghanistan, so maybe a UV filter is more of a must over there. I don't think they make a clear protector below the Pro-1 level, but I could be wrong.
06-23-2010, 04:04 PM   #37
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I'm not one to use UV filters, but this is one environment I would invest in them.
06-24-2010, 01:18 AM   #38
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I went with the slightly less expensive mid grade Hoya's for the thicker glass ( I think it's 5mm vs 3mm) and I'm going to destroy them. I'll get the good ones when I get home. It's mostly very bright sunshine here so the 97% vs 99% light transmission should be no factor. I bought the UV (0) filters. I have a really nice set of Costa Del Mar sunglasses with the 580 glass in a green tint (for fly fishing) and a filter that had that quality of polarization would be amazing if it exists. The polarized filters all seem to have a neutral grey to them. Does anything like that exist?

Now the waiting game to see if this stuff gets stolen on the way haha.


Lee

06-24-2010, 05:11 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by rob1234 Quote
Have you considered just getting an 18-250 and leaving it on pretty much the whole time?
THis lens is NOT dustproof, something which he needs.

Last edited by felixkh; 06-24-2010 at 05:41 AM.
06-24-2010, 05:42 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by LeeRunge Quote
Well after weeks of research and a final showdown between the Canon 7D, Nikon D300s and Pentax K-7......


K-7 FTW.

Purchased the body with two lenses DA* 16-50 and 60-250.

I look forward to using the heck out of it. Pentax packed a heck of a lot of features into this camera. The only real hangups vs the Canon and Nikon were speed 7/8 fps vs 5 (but you can only hold this for @ 2 seconds anyway before the buffer fills and they slow) and ISO. But the K-7 while showing a lot of noise seems to retain a lot of detail which I like. And ISO is overrated and used to much to judge cameras IMO.

This thing has built in Interval timer, HDR, Catch focus, things I will use and are not present on Canon/Nikon.

Image Quality if there is any difference will probably get negated with the higher quality glass afforded with the DA* lenses vs lesser consumer glass I would have purchased for the same price as the K-7 Body (763 what a deal).

And best of all piece of mind that when I stand out in a dust storm for some neat pictures, or when a Helicopter is landing right at me I can shoot away without concern for all that dust in the camera. Or in a storm more pictures when the other Nikon or Canon would get put away. (L glass is nice but with the body it would have been 2 grand more than the K-7).

Thank you all and I look forward to this forum.

Lee

I see that you have got your K7 and lenses. Enjoy them. I am saving up for the DA*50-135/2.8, which costs USD $1000 where I come from.
06-24-2010, 10:00 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by felixkh Quote
I see that you have got your K7 and lenses. Enjoy them. I am saving up for the DA*50-135/2.8, which costs USD $1000 where I come from.
Anticipation is high. Now I need only to wait a few weeks for everything to arrive (if it doesn't vanish mail.) I also looked at the 50-135 which is highly appealing for the F 2.8 aperture. I look forward to posting some pictures with the setup in the future, as well as critique to become a better photographer. Those primes.... I will be revisiting those when I return home!!

Lee
06-26-2010, 09:28 AM   #42
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Lee, I suggest you take one more look at the 50-135. I can see why you are going with the 16-50 and 60-250, however there's one thing about the 135 you may not have considered. The 16-50 and the 60-250 both extend out the front when zooming, but the 50-135 does not. Everything on these WR lenses are sealed, but I think the 50-135 would be up for additional abuse based on this. It's food for thought, but I expect you've already placed your order.

In any event, I anxiously await seeing your photos.
06-26-2010, 09:32 AM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by LeeRunge Quote
I went with Hoya hmc uv filters and hoya polarized filters. The uv will be on most of the time.
I'm a big fan of the Sigma EX DG filters. It seems from the reviews on Amazon and elsewhere that they're a little more scratch resistant than the Hoya ones.

In your environment though, I'd probably buy a few cheap ones to throw away on your return.
06-27-2010, 12:21 AM   #44
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The 50-135 was and is a lens that I want. I really wanted to limit myself to a pair of lenses to cover as much range as I could so that I don't have to switch them on the body to much as well as to save some space even though they are large zooms. I really want this camera with me as much as possible. One of the reasons it took me so long to get a proper SLR in the first place is that I keep a compact camera (Canon SD500 SX200IS) on me at all times so I generally have a camera when I see a photo op. I bought a S2IS (super zoom slr-ish body) A while back and I didn't have available as much as I would have liked.

That said I am at the end of my patience with point and shoots. They are slow to focus bad in low light and lack access to controls other than through menu systems which slow you down when you need it. The Powershot I use right now is almost always in manual or program setting as I have grown out of full auto a long time ago. Those canon point and shoots are great cameras I have to say though. SLR type cameras also make people think "photographer" which when your around the military can be a hindrance. I work with a lot of sensitive information and they get leary of cameras. A small point and shoot even though It can record the same thing is not as intimidating as a large lens camera. It's all moot as almost every cell phone takes pictures now anyway.

I'm really looking forward to this Pentax. The selection of really nice prime lenses is one of the reasons I went Pentax. Every time I have had my hands on a SLR body I ended up using the primes more than the zooms, which is funny because I just bought two zooms (but more for the circumstance).

Another quick point. When going though this decision process I first though "canon" because I have a few. But being that I research things before buying this lead to "Nikon" and finally Pentax. I used a T2i and a Nikon D40/90 and Liked the Nikon yet still went with Pentax based off the trust of many reviews. I am a new user for them and I hope that others buy based on what really is a great deal in cameras. The T2i and D90 are all plastic and not sealed. The D300s and 7d cost double what a k-7 costs. You can basically get a K-7 and one professional grade lens for what you get a nikon camera body of the same caliber for. Also if you want sealed lenses you are looking at L glass and your 7d just turned into 4-5000 with one lens. Pentax is an extreme value in that regard. I weighed all of this and decided that any loss (if any) in quality was not worth thousands in comparison with the Canon/Nikon. That and photography in the end is about composition and being there more than any camera body or lens. Some people take AMAZING pictures with things like iphones.


I also have picked up Lightroom and am very quickly learning how to use it. If anyone has a great link for tips on proper usage let me know, it's a great program.


Lee
06-27-2010, 01:25 AM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by LeeRunge Quote
Another quick point. When going though this decision process I first though "canon" because I have a few. But being that I research things before buying this lead to "Nikon" and finally Pentax. I used a T2i and a Nikon D40/90 and Liked the Nikon yet still went with Pentax based off the trust of many reviews. I am a new user for them and I hope that others buy based on what really is a great deal in cameras. The T2i and D90 are all plastic and not sealed. The D300s and 7d cost double what a k-7 costs. You can basically get a K-7 and one professional grade lens for what you get a nikon camera body of the same caliber for. Also if you want sealed lenses you are looking at L glass and your 7d just turned into 4-5000 with one lens. Pentax is an extreme value in that regard. I weighed all of this and decided that any loss (if any) in quality was not worth thousands in comparison with the Canon/Nikon.
I really like this review. It's similar to the decision I made when choosing a brand at the beginning of the year. The in body SR and the in body HDR really sold it for me. Not having to buy OS glass is a major money saver, and being able to shoot with glass dating back to the 70s is neat.
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