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11-19-2011, 02:06 AM   #76
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Thank you all for your possitive feedback. Glad to hear that it is helpful for some of you.

Before finding these settings, I felt rarely happy with K-7 ISO from 1000 up. But now, I can go up to 2500. Photography to me is just a second hobby beside DIY Audio , therefore, I try to minimise PP as much as posible (even WB, I personally feel that K-7's WB is quite good for JPEG shooter as well).

Yes, it is no doubt that K-5 blows K-7 away for its stella DR and High ISO performace. But for now, I could not afford to upgrade therefore, I need to find way to maximise my lovely K-7 capability.

11-20-2011, 03:53 PM   #77
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Chip, do you leave those settings in the camera all the time? Do they affect normal lighting situations (landscapes) or do you have to turn them off?
thanks!
11-20-2011, 06:39 PM - 2 Likes   #78
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QuoteOriginally posted by GoldenRGuy Quote
Chip, do you leave those settings in the camera all the time? Do they affect normal lighting situations (landscapes) or do you have to turn them off?
thanks!
Hi Golden,

They are my default setting now for most situation (from low light to bright sunlight) and I don't see any problem (if not better than default settings). Please see below for some example pictures in different light condition for your reference. All resized directly from K-7 Jpeg file without anh PP. Hope it help.

#1. In door - natural light skin tone:



#2. Under the sun - natural light skin tone:



#3. Scenery during clear day:



#4. Scenery under sunlight:

11-20-2011, 07:31 PM   #79
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Thanks Chip! I'm going to test this out!

11-21-2011, 04:48 AM   #80
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Thanks for those setting chipvn - I usually shoot RAW, but I have dialled them in and they seem quite good. Obviously having to use some exposure compensation is a shame as you still can end up with low shutter speeds, but I find I have to add a stop or two in low light anyway.

This cleaned up fairly well - it's better than I expected at ISO 6400.


11-23-2011, 03:47 PM   #81
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I am using chipvn's method of 'portrait' jpeg setting and I am quite impressed with that.... I wouldn't touch anything above iso800 before, but now I am quite comfortable pushing it to iso3200 with my k-7.
Here is a shot taken at iso3200 (k-7 and FA77) with minimal noise, just resized for posting.
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11-23-2011, 04:46 PM   #82
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This is very good info! Thanks Chip.

1 question i do have is this - re. the EV's "hard coded EV+1" settings into the camera......does this complicate the EV settings if we are shooting white/black objects? normally the EV is set to +2 for white and -2 for black subject.

Sorry, just a beginner question.
11-24-2011, 08:40 AM   #83
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QuoteOriginally posted by raider Quote
This is very good info! Thanks Chip.

1 question i do have is this - re. the EV's "hard coded EV+1" settings into the camera......does this complicate the EV settings if we are shooting white/black objects? normally the EV is set to +2 for white and -2 for black subject.

Sorry, just a beginner question.
I don't think it is complicated. Instead of setting +2 or -2 from 0Ev as you often do now it is equivalent to +3 and -1. That's it.

11-24-2011, 09:05 AM   #84
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Now, its unfair to compare noise at +1 EV vs 0 EV for the same iso value. +1 EV should have the same noise level as half the iso of a 0 EV picture to be equivalent.

So, one has to compare iso3200 and +1EV with iso1600 and 0EV to compare which iso is better as they both will have the same shutter and aperture for the same scene.

P.S: Good lenses help, these were taken at iso3200 with no post processing. I used my FA31/1.8 limited which gives reaults like this that other lenses couldn't with my K-7. Just the deafult LR processing which it does when an image is opened.



















11-24-2011, 09:12 AM   #85
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QuoteOriginally posted by pcarfan Quote
Now, its unfair to compare noise at +1 EV vs 0 EV for the same iso value. +1 EV should have the same noise level as half the iso of a 0 EV picture to be equivalent.

So, one has to compare iso3200 and +1EV with iso1600 and 0EV to compare which iso is better as they both will have the same shutter and aperture for the same scene.

P.S: Good lenses help, these were taken at iso3200 with no post processing. I used my FA31/1.8 limited which gives reaults like this that other lenses couldn't with my K-7. Just the deafult LR processing which it does when an image is opened.
pcarfan - love these shots! Can you tell me where these were taken?
11-24-2011, 09:46 AM   #86
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QuoteOriginally posted by paulh Quote
pcarfan - love these shots! Can you tell me where these were taken?
These were taken at the Wright Patterson airforce museum at Dayton, Ohio. It is has poor, mixed lighting. So, they were taken in dim light, sorry the EXIF is missing.
11-24-2011, 09:55 AM   #87
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Here is quick comparision between ISO1600/+0.3Ev with default Hi/Low key to ISO2500 and ISO3200 with Hi/Low -4 / +1Ev (0.7Ev difference) for you self comparision. I think the advantage is still equivalent to 0.3Ev comparing to normal settings.


PS: Could anyone help to compare between K-7 with different older bodies (K100/200, K10/20) to see with the same lighting condition/subject/lens/aperture if K-7 having higher speed or not? I'm just curious to see if K-7 intentionally actually underexpose the picture and using the High/Low key to boost back the same light as previous bodies or not.

Thanks
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11-24-2011, 09:57 AM   #88
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QuoteOriginally posted by pcarfan Quote
These were taken at the Wright Patterson airforce museum at Dayton, Ohio. It is has poor, mixed lighting. So, they were taken in dim light, sorry the EXIF is missing.
I think you did ok, considering the conditions. I just enjoyed seeing those mockups - very cool.
11-28-2011, 08:29 AM   #89
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QuoteOriginally posted by chipvn Quote
.....
I'm just curious to see if K-7 intentionally actually underexpose the picture and using the High/Low key to boost back the same light as previous bodies or not.
Cause no one helps on this, I need to find the answer for myself. I've done a quick test using FA35/2, ISO800, Multi Segments Metering. The pictures were taken in RAW+ mode (RAW and JPEG at the same time). The RAW files then were developed using CameraRAW CS5 with different settings.

This is what I foud out (all EXIF data with Histogram remained for your reference)

1. Picture 1: K-7 Default settings - JPEG
2. Picture 2: RAW file developed using CameraRAW default settings (Brightness +50/ Contrast +25)
3. Picture 3: RAW file developed using CameraRAW settings with all set to 0.
4. Picture 4: RAW file taken at +0.7Ev Compensation developed using CameraRAW settings with all set to 0.

So, it seem to me that K-7 does underexpose the pictures (RAW result) by about 0.7-1Ev then using Hi/Low key adjustment to bring it back to normal Exposure in JPEG result. Therefore, it is your choise to either using K-7 JPEG approach or using my approach or even RAW approach.

Best regards,
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Last edited by chipvn; 11-28-2011 at 06:39 PM.
11-28-2011, 01:31 PM   #90
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QuoteOriginally posted by pcarfan Quote
Now, its unfair to compare noise at +1 EV vs 0 EV for the same iso value. +1 EV should have the same noise level as half the iso of a 0 EV picture to be equivalent.
I've noticed a problem with the the way ISO values and these so called ISO'less sensors. Having said that... what I find really problematic is where many of my primes require significant EV shifts to meter properly. Likewise... auto exposure adjustments in programs like ACR and LR, do not produce reliable recreations of the initial conditions within a scene(ex low light).
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