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12-19-2011, 05:45 AM   #91
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QuoteOriginally posted by chipvn Quote
Thank you all for your possitive feedback. Glad to hear that it is helpful for some of you.

Before finding these settings, I felt rarely happy with K-7 ISO from 1000 up. But now, I can go up to 2500. Photography to me is just a second hobby beside DIY Audio , therefore, I try to minimise PP as much as posible (even WB, I personally feel that K-7's WB is quite good for JPEG shooter as well).

Yes, it is no doubt that K-5 blows K-7 away for its stella DR and High ISO performace. But for now, I could not afford to upgrade therefore, I need to find way to maximise my lovely K-7 capability.
It has helped out a lot, thank you Chip! I, like you don't have the finances right now to upgrade to a K-5, and also need to maximize the my K-7's abilities. I tell you, this camera is really an amazing tool, and with people like you it becomes even more so! I sometimes feel a bit left out when I say I have a K-7, but with posts like this I feel good to have it again!

I think in our upgrade gone mad world (and I'm guilty of it too, I am a HUGE techie, smartphone and gadget guy ), we sometimes fail to appreciate the things we do have. In these horrible economic times, I think it's more important than ever to do so. Now, we shouldn't stop wanting to upgrade or move on, up or whatever, but we should try to make the best out of our current situation. I am also a HUGE Railroad and Model Railroad guy, and photog goes right along with those

12-21-2011, 09:50 PM   #92
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After reading Chip's technique last night I took about 50 test images using his settings. I haven't shot a jpeg with my K7 since I purchased LR last June and I was very impressed with the noise, or lack of it, all the way up to ISO 4500. It seemed like there was a significant drop of DR at ISO 5000 and 6400, but 3200, 4000, and 4500 looked very impressive. I use my K-7 with half stops instead of 1/3 stops, so I have my auto ISO set for 100-4500 now. I've been experimenting with TAv mode again (with RAW) and this suits the new ISO range very well. Depending on the lighting, EV of +0.5, 1.0 and 1.5 was plenty to get a nice histogram. If I reverted back to 1/3 stops I would limit the ISO to 4000 as I would probably only use ISO 5000 or 6400 for artistic purposes or the intention to convert to B&W. Thanks for this information Chip!

P.S. I did all of my testing with F 50mm 1.4 lens. May try again later this week with the DA 35mm 2.4
12-22-2011, 07:28 AM   #93
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Hello all - back in PF again after a long absence. I got a used K-7 recently to see how I liked it (uninspired by Nikon) and after reading this post numerous times, tried both methods of reducing high ISO noise. I noted several things: 1. when using Chip's settings, ISO 3200 uses the same exposure (aperture & shutter speed) as for a given scene at ISO 1600 without those settings; so can the former really be considered an ISO 3200 shot? 2. there is a significant magenta-pink color cast when I use Chip's settings under incandescent light. 3. Using high-ISO noise reduction does about the same thing to reduce noise, as posted by Adam in the beginning of this thread; and sharpness is about the same. I don't see a lot of difference between the high-ISO noise reduction at 1600 than Chip's settings at ISO 3200. Not complaining, just wondering if others have noted similar things
12-22-2011, 06:12 PM   #94
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Hi Yosemite:

Adam's setting applies Strong NR and to me, it kills a bit too much detail. Medium NR does a much better job in this. In my first post in this topic, I provided a comparision and you can esily see the difference.

Regarding to the Exposure value, understood that my approach seems to have the same Jpeg Exposure value with the about 0.7-1Ev lower ISO stop. However, what I would like to know is whether the Exposure that K-7 Jpeg provide to us is the same as the RAW Exposure value. If it is the same then yes, my aproach doesn't have much advantages.

I've brought this matter up in this post.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/106600-k-7-high-is...ml#post1723379


Cause no one would like to check, I did the simple test myself. The result show me that the RAW exposure value seems to be 0.7-1Ev lower than the Jpeg Exposure value. This is my test result.

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-dslr-discussion/106600-k-7-high-is...ml#post1726875


So if my finding is correct, K-7 Jpeg engine pulls Jpeg Exposure up for about 0.7-1Ev from its RAW Exposure (to me this RAW exposure might be closer to Exposure value that the sensor is actually received). And I just bring its Jpeg exposure back to actual (so call sensor) exposure.

My finding might not be accurate, therefore, if anyone of you is interested in finding the real performance of K-7 (which mentioned by most of the Reviews: K-7 RAW noise performance is equivalent to its competitors in its class.) you could do your testing and share with us the result (it is better to have some pictures) whether it is good or bad!

Thank you all for your discussion.
Hoang


Last edited by chipvn; 12-22-2011 at 06:19 PM.
12-24-2011, 07:36 AM   #95
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Hong,
Thanks for all this info. I will regroup and retry this weekend. Will be interested to see if WB or hue changes any under daylight conditions.
So do you shoot all pics with these settings, or just high ISO...and above what ISO value?
12-25-2011, 06:38 AM   #96
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I mentioned in my prior post that I haven't shot a JPEG with my K-7 since buying LR3 last June. For our family's Christmas Eve party yesterday I decided that instead of shooting RAW that I would try the new JPEG settings. Things went pretty well, though I admit that I could have gotten better results shooting RAW. However, I used to only allow my AutoISO settings to range from 100-800 or 100-1600 at most. Last night I had it set on TAv and AutoISO 100-5000 with EV at +1.3 (adjusted a few times as needed). The results were much better in actual shooting than anything I've seen before. The noise out of camera with a ISO 5000 JPEG was better than some results I've had in the past at ISO 800 or 1600. Super impressed! I'm including a sample image of my wife and child which was taken at ISO 4000, and full resolution and metadata can be found on Flickr by clicking on the image:



I believe that with RAW I can capture a wider range of tones, however I still like the skin tones here. This is a very usable image for 4x6 prints. It is nice to know now that I can shoot JPEG at higher ISO if I ever need to supply some JPEGs straight off the camera without having access to LR to post process them. Thanks again Chip!

Last edited by HEEGZ; 12-25-2011 at 06:55 AM. Reason: fix links
01-03-2012, 09:04 PM   #97
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Try Adding Highlight Correction

There is less noise with these settings, but under tungsten light with AWB setting there are also pink-magenta halos/bands of color in areas between brighter and dimmer areas - such as the edges of the lady's forearm and onto her hand in the picture in the prior post. It is also present as a ring around the child's head - above the eyes and extending all around the hairline. I noticed this in my own photos using Chip's settings and high ISO. This could be my LCD, but I noticed it also on my camera.

I have found this pink-magenta banding goes away if I set D-Range Setting for Highlight Correction ON. This also may reduce noise a little. I'm not sure you get this color/band issue under daylight; however, indoor with tungsten is the situation I'm most likely to want high ISO

01-04-2012, 08:03 PM   #98
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Hi Yosemite,

I've always turned Hightlight correction on all the time. These high/low key settings are also my default settings both for daylight and low light shooting.

Personally, I don't think my settings generate pink-magenta halos/bands as you mentioned cause it won't affect RAW. That pink-magenta halos/bands problem might happen with default settings as well (at high ISO) because it is probably the saturation in some RGB channels. I think, the higher ISO, the lower Dynamic range is available, therefore it is easier to be blew highlight at high contrast area. By turn on Highlight correction, you reduce the blow highlight problem therefore, probably, help to reduce pink-magenta halos/bands problem as well.

Regards,
Hoang

Last edited by chipvn; 01-07-2012 at 08:16 AM.
01-06-2012, 11:11 PM   #99
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Good points, thank you. Also, my brother has been testing these techniques on his K-5 and is seeing excellent results at ISO 16000...
03-07-2012, 12:03 PM   #100
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Iso 16000. . . wow. . .

I'm a beginner and I have the k-7 and the K-r
with the K-r I tend to shoot ISO 1600 and if I have to, I will shoot 3200 if there's not much light available.

What's the best setting for me for the K-7? cause I only shoot 100 - 400. If I have to, I push it to 800 - 1000.

And If I do this and I get myself a flash, will the setting that can push ISO affect the jpegs at lower iso? like iso 100?

Thanks (:
04-03-2012, 12:08 AM   #101
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Take a look at page 4 at Chipvn thread. I can get up to ISO 3200 with good quality image from my K7. I'll try this setting on my newly acquire K5 and will come back with feedback as soon as I can get my hand on it.
04-03-2012, 01:30 AM   #102
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This has appeared in a prev post but I cant help but repeat:
I am just soo happy with my K-7! I would never want to be without 2 dials and TaV.
This was taken at ISO 3200 + 1 EV = 6400!
Just my 2c.

04-03-2012, 06:34 AM   #103
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QuoteOriginally posted by georgecape Quote
This has appeared in a prev post but I cant help but repeat:
I am just soo happy with my K-7! I would never want to be without 2 dials and TaV.
This was taken at ISO 3200 + 1 EV = 6400!
Just my 2c.
What settings did you use?
04-03-2012, 08:14 AM   #104
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1/200 f8 at 500mm and ISO 3200 + 1EV....the cpte EXIF is in the K7 vs Kr thread in this section.
Sometimes on the tripod but mostly on the monopod.
04-13-2012, 07:26 PM   #105
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Anyone have the "correct" setting for Pentax K5? I could not get the same picture quality as what I've got from my Pentax K7 setting.
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