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07-16-2010, 02:18 AM   #1
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vivitar 283 to k20d

will vivitar 283 work with k20d?

07-16-2010, 02:25 AM   #2
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Don,t do it Barn, Although some of the later 283s have a fairly low trigger voltage, there is no guarrentee and why risk breaking a superb camera. Nowdays I use my 283 as a slave mounted on a tripod and triggered by the Metz flash on camera.
07-16-2010, 02:28 AM   #3
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No no

It will fry your camera like bacon.
07-16-2010, 03:10 AM   #4
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It depends on when the 283 was made. According to Photo Strobe Trigger Voltages older units have trigger voltages as high as 600 volts. Units marked "Made in China" after 1987 have trigger voltages of 5 to 10 volts, which would be safe. Before using, you should check the trigger voltage of your unit or you can get a Wein Safe-Sync.

07-16-2010, 06:16 AM   #5
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I use 283s with radio triggers, even if mounted on a camera bracket. There is just no point in risking it. That being said, there are too many better options than the 283 for on or near camera work.
07-16-2010, 07:38 AM   #6
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When I first got my K10D, I used an old Vivitar 283 on it a few times before I remembered about the trigger voltage. I measured the flash and it was about 130 volts, way too high.

I haven't used it directly on the K10D since then, but it does show that the danger is not immediate. That said, I would strongly recommend against using the 283 on any dslr, without a Wein Safe Sync or a radio trigger.

The other problem with a 283 is, of course, that it does not support p-ttl. It has its own sensor and can be used the old-fashioned way, by setting the aperture on the camera and letting the flash control its own duration.
07-16-2010, 07:49 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by noblepa Quote
The other problem with a 283 is, of course, that it does not support p-ttl. It has its own sensor and can be used the old-fashioned way, by setting the aperture on the camera and letting the flash control its own duration.
There are those who might deem that an advantage.
07-16-2010, 10:13 AM   #8
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I use mine with a Wein Safesync. It's an early 80s model that I used on my LX; seems to work fine on my K20d.

07-16-2010, 10:54 AM   #9
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Why don't you measure the trigger voltage of that particular flash unit? If you don't have a multimeter, buy one. It is inexpensive and is a useful tool to have around the house.

If you don't want to buy a multimeter, bring your flash unit (with batteries of course) to a local Radio Shack. I'm sure they will help you out.

I had 3 Vivitar 283 units (all sold), one is 183V, the other two are about 8V.
07-17-2010, 12:12 PM   #10
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Wise Quote
I use mine with a Wein Safesync. It's an early 80s model that I used on my LX; seems to work fine on my K20d.
I would suspect that TT-L flash cameras would not appreciate HV triggers either.
07-17-2010, 12:14 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by SOldBear Quote
Why don't you measure the trigger voltage of that particular flash unit? If you don't have a multimeter, buy one. It is inexpensive and is a useful tool to have around the house.

If you don't want to buy a multimeter, bring your flash unit (with batteries of course) to a local Radio Shack. I'm sure they will help you out.

I had 3 Vivitar 283 units (all sold), one is 183V, the other two are about 8V.
You can also touch across the PC cable connected to the flash. If you feel it, don't use it.

As you might guess, I did this test by accident, but I confirmed it with a multimeter. No permanent damage to the flash or the finger.
07-17-2010, 02:07 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by GeneV Quote
I would suspect that TT-L flash cameras would not appreciate HV triggers either.
No, these high voltage flashes didn't affect TTL cameras of the same era. Maybe some of the more recent ones but not the originals. I believe that the LX was the first Pentax camera with full TTL. I recently bought a used Vivitar 285HV ($10.00 - I couldn't pass it up). All of the 285HV are low voltage aren't they?
07-18-2010, 12:22 PM   #13
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I routinely use a 283 in conjunction with my K10D but the flash is NOT mounted in the hotshoe. Rather, I use the built-in flash to trigger it via a Wein "peanut" slave that fits neatly in the 283. Works like a charm and enables me to position the flash anywhere in the room. The flash is attached to a gizmo I bought from Spiratone about 40 years ago that enables you to attach any hotshoe-type flash to a tripod or lightstand. The gizmo in turn is attached to one of the quick-release plates I have for my tripod, enabling it to sit flat on a table, bookcase, etc but sometimes I attach it to that tripod, which then functions as a lightstand. I set the camera for Manual exposure and the flash to one of the Auto modes (usually the "red" setting). I like to bounce the flash off the ceiling or a wall, all of which are more or less white. Also, I shoot RAW exclusively so any exposure/white balance adjustments are easily done in ACR.

Richard
07-18-2010, 12:27 PM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mike Wise Quote
No, these high voltage flashes didn't affect TTL cameras of the same era. Maybe some of the more recent ones but not the originals. I believe that the LX was the first Pentax camera with full TTL. I recently bought a used Vivitar 285HV ($10.00 - I couldn't pass it up). All of the 285HV are low voltage aren't they?
Have you tried it with a flash known to have an HV trigger or do you have another source of this information? I only ask because I was unable to find the answer online, and I generally tend to wand to be safe rather than sorry..
07-18-2010, 03:05 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by Old Timer 56 Quote
Rather, I use the built-in flash to trigger it via a Wein "peanut" slave that fits neatly in the 283. Works like a charm...
Does the Wein "peanut" slave know to ignore the preflash p-TTL strobe? Or are you using a manual lens with your K10D?
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