Wireless flash trigger option for K7 help

mppuser · 08-14-2010, 07:59 AM

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A quick check at Ebay shows a firm in South Wales (welsh Wales, UK) that supplies the above. Camera hotshoe voltage is 3.29v, the max range is about 99feet and the max flash gun trigger voltage is !2v. Wireless channel selection is by 2 DIP switches to select any one of 4 channels.
Supplied with coax leads,they can be used with cameras and guns via a lead or the conventional hotshoe.
I have 2, so can trigger up to 4 guns from one of the transmitters.
Value for money? - Yes. Very!
Operation - Excellent
Problems - None
Minuses - Flash trigger unit could have a more robust mounting bracket._easily solved with some simple home engineering.

MPrince · 08-14-2010, 08:10 AM

Alienbees Cybersyncs. Reliability of Pocket Wizards, legendary customer service, reasonable price.

AlienBees - CyberSync™ System

JeffJS · 08-14-2010, 08:52 AM

Regarding Flash Voltages.. I just sold a bunch of old flashes on the marketplace. Before sending them, I checked the trigger voltages. What I found, in general is that all purpose flashes, the type with just one contact on the shoe, were well above 100 volts. The types that are TTL compatible (any version), were less than 12 volts, the least being a Vivitar 3700 at just under 5 volts. I mention that one because it has a tilt-swivel head.

Use that as a guide on 'compatible flash units' if it helps.

**bkpix** · 08-14-2010, 09:34 AM

Very simple and inexpensive wireless flash setup that works:

Take any two cheap flashes. I use a Pentax AF-280T and a Vivitar 285HV, but the brands are not very important. What you need is one flash that has an old-fashioned "auto" setting and a way to be controlled by an optical slave, such as a Wein Peanut (about $15). It's nice if the second flash has tilt/swivel, but not vital.

Set the slaved Vivitar to auto 5.6 (or whatever f/stop works for your photo). Place it wherever you want it to illuminate your scene. Put the 280T on the camera hotshoe. Swivel the 280T so it's facing away from the subject, if you don't want its light involved in the photo. (You can also simple use an index card and tape to reduce its power, or a manual setting if it has one.)

Set the camera to 1/180 and 5.6 (or f/stop of your choice, above).

Test.

Fire away.

The old auto flashes are very nearly as accurate in their exposure as TTL of any flavor. And they are much cheaper. You can get 285s for $50 or less.

Been using this for years. It's very nearly as good as the wireless Canon system I also have, and hundreds of dollars cheaper.

The set-up in action, using a stand and umbrella for the 285

Russell-Evans · 08-15-2010, 05:46 AM

Originally posted by kenyee

The Canikon equivalents are the Radiopopper PX and Pocket Wizard ControlTL systems.

There are the Pixel TR-331 and TR-332 that are around $150 as well. I'm not holding my breath, but maybe the Pixel brand will have a Pentax version at some point.

Thank you
Russell

clark · 08-15-2010, 06:14 AM

i use the 4 channel ebay triggers, these: Wireless Flash Trigger With 3 Receiver 4 Channel in UK on eBay (end time 11-Sep-10 06:32:39 BST)
work great, good range

have a slight problem with the flash coming off the hot shoe quite easily, which at first made me think the units were broken- so make sure you get the flash on properly

also having something with detachable feet is very very useful

and built in umbrella holders (and trust me, you need an umbrella when working outside, direct light from the flash is as awful as the pop up flash)

also, if you get an older flash, make sure to get something with full manual control, my flash only has full or 1/16, which makes it a bit limiting, and when on full it takes 16 seconds to recharge, 16 seconds!

i'm not sure whether those triggers will work with p-ttl though

and annoyingly yongnuo have e/i-ttl compatible nikon/canon flashes- which actually makes it cheaper to set up a canon flash setup than it does to set up pentax!

mppuser · 08-15-2010, 07:32 AM

Optical units only work if the area being photographed is dark enough for the slave to 'see' the source flash. Working in an area where 'fill in' flash is required eliminates use of such units due to insufficient light level differences during the flash. This means the slave flash(es) do not fire.
Try shooting in the centre of a large open ended farm barn, trying to match interior light levels with that at each end of the building and you'll see what I mean.
In these situations it must be wireless by radio signal.Optical untis will not work.
Regards

mppuser · 08-15-2010, 07:45 AM

Sorry....this is not so.
Do some tests on Miranda guns and you will see.
500CD = 2.85v + Positive centre contact
630CD = 8.2v - Negative centre contact
700CD = way over 100v !
All are multi dedicated units, the 500CD being manufactured during the 1980's
Also centre contact polarity is important. It must be + Positive!
The rule is ALWAYS test before attempting to use on a camera and never take anything for granted. Production changes mean voltages can be different from one gun to another although of same model number.

JeffJS · 08-15-2010, 07:52 AM

Thanks for the information. What I tested was what I had on hand and what I said about them, is fact. Why would I test what I do not have? I have no intention of buying any of them.

SOldBear · 08-15-2010, 11:49 PM

Originally posted by clark

i'm not sure whether those triggers will work with p-ttl though

No. None of the current radio flash triggers support p-TTL.

Originally posted by clark

... and annoyingly yongnuo have e/i-ttl compatible nikon/canon flashes- which actually makes it cheaper to set up a canon flash setup than it does to set up pentax!

You can stop being annoyed. Yongnuo radio flash triggers don't support Nikon i-TTL nor Canon e-TTL.

There are radio flash triggers that support Nikon i-TTL and Canon e-TTL but they are not in the same price range of Yongnuo.

Russell-Evans · 08-16-2010, 12:52 AM

Originally posted by kenyee

The YN602's in Soldbear's post don't sync up to 1/180...only 1/125, at least the Canon compatible ones I tried. The Nikon ones might work..

You can get the RF-602 to sync at 1/180 with a piece of gaffers tape across the trigger's button. I just made a tape flap with a little tape folded on to itself on one end and a bit of tape folded into a pillow for on top of the button. All I have to do is lift up on the tab (folded end of tape) and then tighten the tape enough to depress the button enough that the green LED light comes on. When I'm done, I just loosen the tape. Takes a few second to do. For the range, price, and stability, I'm willing to use the tape work around for these triggers. I'll upgrade when we have a Pentax version of the Pixel triggers.

[YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xm2YOs7O2YY[/YT]

Thank you
Russell

N155 · 08-16-2010, 06:04 AM

Thanks for the input guys. It sure helps

Anyway, any of you guys have tried MicroSync Digital for firing strobes or speedlights?

GeneV · 08-16-2010, 06:24 AM

I've been using the YN CTR 301P triggers for years now. I think they have been superseded, since I don't see them offered as much on Ebay. They also list 30m as the range, but I've tested mine up to a city block. They will sync semi-reliably at X speeds, but you need to shift into manual and go no higher than 1/125 for 100% success.

I really don't miss P-TTL with these triggers on a digital body. You can either set the flashes to auto, and set the camera to the recommended F-stop, or set the flashes on manual and chimp a bit for the exposure varying the power or exposure. I've found now that it never takes me more than 3 or 4 tries at the most after using this setup a while.

Pay close attention to what Jeff said about trigger voltage. Older flashes like, in my case, Vivitar 283s have voltages which not only fry your camera, but they bite! I've used the CTR301 receivers to control the flashes on a stand using a PC cord, and learned to cover up the hot shoe for safety. With a flash attached to the PC, that hot shoe is charged with voltage about like that of US household wiring, but at DC. Ouch!

WMBP · 08-16-2010, 06:39 AM

Originally posted by HEEGZ

I bought this one and use it on both of my cameras with no problems.

Amazon.com: CowboyStudio NPT-04 4 Channel Wireless Hot Shoe Flash Trigger…

Wow, the Cowboy Studio units are the cheapest I've seen—and they get consistently positive reviews at Amazon. I've bookmarked that link in Amazon for possible future use.

Will

08-14-2010, 07:59 AM	#16
mppuser New Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 7	£16.99 Gets you 1 transmitter and 2 trigger units. Staff note: This post may contain affiliate links, which means Pentax Forums may earn a small commission if a visitor clicks through and makes a purchase. If you would like to support the forum directly, you may also make a donation here. A quick check at Ebay shows a firm in South Wales (welsh Wales, UK) that supplies the above. Camera hotshoe voltage is 3.29v, the max range is about 99feet and the max flash gun trigger voltage is !2v. Wireless channel selection is by 2 DIP switches to select any one of 4 channels. Supplied with coax leads,they can be used with cameras and guns via a lead or the conventional hotshoe. I have 2, so can trigger up to 4 guns from one of the transmitters. Value for money? - Yes. Very! Operation - Excellent Problems - None Minuses - Flash trigger unit could have a more robust mounting bracket._easily solved with some simple home engineering.

08-16-2010, 12:52 AM	#26
Russell-Evans Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 1,553	Originally posted by kenyee The YN602's in Soldbear's post don't sync up to 1/180...only 1/125, at least the Canon compatible ones I tried. The Nikon ones might work.. You can get the RF-602 to sync at 1/180 with a piece of gaffers tape across the trigger's button. I just made a tape flap with a little tape folded on to itself on one end and a bit of tape folded into a pillow for on top of the button. All I have to do is lift up on the tab (folded end of tape) and then tighten the tape enough to depress the button enough that the green LED light comes on. When I'm done, I just loosen the tape. Takes a few second to do. For the range, price, and stability, I'm willing to use the tape work around for these triggers. I'll upgrade when we have a Pentax version of the Pixel triggers. [YT]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xm2YOs7O2YY[/YT] Thank you Russell Last edited by Russell-Evans; 08-17-2010 at 04:22 AM.

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08-14-2010, 08:10 AM	#17
MPrince Veteran Member Join Date: Sep 2006 Location: WV Posts: 1,495	Alienbees Cybersyncs. Reliability of Pocket Wizards, legendary customer service, reasonable price. AlienBees - CyberSync™ System

08-14-2010, 08:52 AM	#18
JeffJS Inactive Account Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Michigan, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 7,484	Regarding Flash Voltages.. I just sold a bunch of old flashes on the marketplace. Before sending them, I checked the trigger voltages. What I found, in general is that all purpose flashes, the type with just one contact on the shoe, were well above 100 volts. The types that are TTL compatible (any version), were less than 12 volts, the least being a Vivitar 3700 at just under 5 volts. I mention that one because it has a tilt-swivel head. Use that as a guide on 'compatible flash units' if it helps.

08-14-2010, 09:34 AM	#19
bkpix Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Creswell, Oregon Photos: Albums Posts: 570	Very simple and inexpensive wireless flash setup that works: Take any two cheap flashes. I use a Pentax AF-280T and a Vivitar 285HV, but the brands are not very important. What you need is one flash that has an old-fashioned "auto" setting and a way to be controlled by an optical slave, such as a Wein Peanut (about $15). It's nice if the second flash has tilt/swivel, but not vital. Set the slaved Vivitar to auto 5.6 (or whatever f/stop works for your photo). Place it wherever you want it to illuminate your scene. Put the 280T on the camera hotshoe. Swivel the 280T so it's facing away from the subject, if you don't want its light involved in the photo. (You can also simple use an index card and tape to reduce its power, or a manual setting if it has one.) Set the camera to 1/180 and 5.6 (or f/stop of your choice, above). Test. Fire away. The old auto flashes are very nearly as accurate in their exposure as TTL of any flavor. And they are much cheaper. You can get 285s for $50 or less. Been using this for years. It's very nearly as good as the wireless Canon system I also have, and hundreds of dollars cheaper. The set-up in action, using a stand and umbrella for the 285

08-15-2010, 05:46 AM	#20
Russell-Evans Veteran Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Posts: 1,553	Originally posted by kenyee The Canikon equivalents are the Radiopopper PX and Pocket Wizard ControlTL systems. There are the Pixel TR-331 and TR-332 that are around $150 as well. I'm not holding my breath, but maybe the Pixel brand will have a Pentax version at some point. Thank you Russell

08-15-2010, 06:14 AM	#21
clark Inactive Account Join Date: Jun 2010 Posts: 301	i use the 4 channel ebay triggers, these: Wireless Flash Trigger With 3 Receiver 4 Channel in UK on eBay (end time 11-Sep-10 06:32:39 BST) work great, good range have a slight problem with the flash coming off the hot shoe quite easily, which at first made me think the units were broken- so make sure you get the flash on properly also having something with detachable feet is very very useful and built in umbrella holders (and trust me, you need an umbrella when working outside, direct light from the flash is as awful as the pop up flash) also, if you get an older flash, make sure to get something with full manual control, my flash only has full or 1/16, which makes it a bit limiting, and when on full it takes 16 seconds to recharge, 16 seconds! i'm not sure whether those triggers will work with p-ttl though and annoyingly yongnuo have e/i-ttl compatible nikon/canon flashes- which actually makes it cheaper to set up a canon flash setup than it does to set up pentax!

08-15-2010, 07:32 AM	#22
mppuser New Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 7	Optical units only work if the area being photographed is dark enough for the slave to 'see' the source flash. Working in an area where 'fill in' flash is required eliminates use of such units due to insufficient light level differences during the flash. This means the slave flash(es) do not fire. Try shooting in the centre of a large open ended farm barn, trying to match interior light levels with that at each end of the building and you'll see what I mean. In these situations it must be wireless by radio signal.Optical untis will not work. Regards

08-15-2010, 07:45 AM	#23
mppuser New Member Join Date: Apr 2010 Posts: 7	Sorry....this is not so. Do some tests on Miranda guns and you will see. 500CD = 2.85v + Positive centre contact 630CD = 8.2v - Negative centre contact 700CD = way over 100v ! All are multi dedicated units, the 500CD being manufactured during the 1980's Also centre contact polarity is important. It must be + Positive! The rule is ALWAYS test before attempting to use on a camera and never take anything for granted. Production changes mean voltages can be different from one gun to another although of same model number.

08-15-2010, 07:52 AM	#24
JeffJS Inactive Account Join Date: Aug 2008 Location: Michigan, USA Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 7,484	Thanks for the information. What I tested was what I had on hand and what I said about them, is fact. Why would I test what I do not have? I have no intention of buying any of them.

08-15-2010, 11:49 PM	#25
SOldBear Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Alameda, CA Posts: 3,206	Originally posted by clark i'm not sure whether those triggers will work with p-ttl though No. None of the current radio flash triggers support p-TTL. Originally posted by clark ... and annoyingly yongnuo have e/i-ttl compatible nikon/canon flashes- which actually makes it cheaper to set up a canon flash setup than it does to set up pentax! You can stop being annoyed. Yongnuo radio flash triggers don't support Nikon i-TTL nor Canon e-TTL. There are radio flash triggers that support Nikon i-TTL and Canon e-TTL but they are not in the same price range of Yongnuo.

08-16-2010, 06:04 AM	#27
N155 Inactive Account Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Brisbane Photos: Gallery Posts: 14 Original Poster	Thanks for the input guys. It sure helps Anyway, any of you guys have tried MicroSync Digital for firing strobes or speedlights?

08-16-2010, 06:24 AM	#28
GeneV Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2008 Location: Albuquerque NM Photos: Albums Posts: 9,830	I've been using the YN CTR 301P triggers for years now. I think they have been superseded, since I don't see them offered as much on Ebay. They also list 30m as the range, but I've tested mine up to a city block. They will sync semi-reliably at X speeds, but you need to shift into manual and go no higher than 1/125 for 100% success. I really don't miss P-TTL with these triggers on a digital body. You can either set the flashes to auto, and set the camera to the recommended F-stop, or set the flashes on manual and chimp a bit for the exposure varying the power or exposure. I've found now that it never takes me more than 3 or 4 tries at the most after using this setup a while. Pay close attention to what Jeff said about trigger voltage. Older flashes like, in my case, Vivitar 283s have voltages which not only fry your camera, but they bite! I've used the CTR301 receivers to control the flashes on a stand using a PC cord, and learned to cover up the hot shoe for safety. With a flash attached to the PC, that hot shoe is charged with voltage about like that of US household wiring, but at DC. Ouch!

08-16-2010, 06:39 AM	#29
WMBP Veteran Member Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Dallas, Texas Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,482	Originally posted by HEEGZ I bought this one and use it on both of my cameras with no problems. Amazon.com: CowboyStudio NPT-04 4 Channel Wireless Hot Shoe Flash Trigger… Wow, the Cowboy Studio units are the cheapest I've seen—and they get consistently positive reviews at Amazon. I've bookmarked that link in Amazon for possible future use. Will