[JohnBee]

He was saying ISO 100 not 1/100

Now you see, I was assuming....

[Wheatfield]

Looks like normal noise for ISO 3200.

Actually, it looks pretty darned good for ISO 3200

What are you complaining about?

[razorBlades]

wow guys, did not expect this much replies!

dumb me, increased the iso for a night shoot and forgot to change it back.. sorry it was on 6400 iso indeed..

apologies from the n00b.

reading the manual now

Thanks everyone for the reply!

[Ira]

Were you afraid that a fighter aircraft would come behind your friend and be blurry in the pic?

Now THAT's funny!!!

[Ira]

wow guys, did not expect this much replies!

dumb me, increased the iso for a night shoot and forgot to change it back.. sorry it was on 6400 iso indeed..

apologies from the n00b.

reading the manual now

Thanks everyone for the reply!

I am a big proponent for using manual ISO, not auto ISO. That's something I want to choose, because it can make such a big difference.

Because I'm constantly changing my ISO, even within an hour's time, I have the habit of always checking it.

However, a month ago, I did the same thing as you--and left it on 1600 when I wanted 100.

[pxpaulx]

I am a big proponent for using manual ISO, not auto ISO. That's something I want to choose, because it can make such a big difference.

Because I'm constantly changing my ISO, even within an hour's time, I have the habit of always checking it.

However, a month ago, I did the same thing as you--and left it on 1600 when I wanted 100.

Agreed, IMO auto ISO should just be left to Sv mode - where you know you want to be able to have control over the ISO. Although, setting the K-x to Auto ISO 200-800 wouldn't really be too noticeable in program mode.

[Entropy]

I am a big proponent for using manual ISO, not auto ISO. That's something I want to choose, because it can make such a big difference.

Because I'm constantly changing my ISO, even within an hour's time, I have the habit of always checking it.

However, a month ago, I did the same thing as you--and left it on 1600 when I wanted 100.

Auto-ISO is the first thing I turn OFF when I get a new camera.

[pentup]

I would recommend starting out with the habit of keeping your iso at 200 when outside in good daylight, and 800 when you go indoors, and adjusting from there. I tend to have the opposite problem -- when I have auto iso on I sometimes find myself shooting at iso 200 indoors with lenses that really need higher speed.

[twitch]

I disagree with those bagging auto-ISO. I find it very useful, in Av mode it only bumps my ISO when the shutter speed drops into the danger zone for blurry pics.

The problem the OP'er had was in fact related to manual selection of ISO, it's a problem that auto ISO would have actually solved in this case. It's a very common problem when using manual ISO to forget to adjust it for when you next use the camera.

[razorBlades]

hey guys, try shooting in 200 ISO and still having grains

is this normal and its my stupid head, or some problem?

[hangu]

It's definitely you. The camera is fine.

Have you read the manual yet?

[Ken T]

hey guys, try shooting in 200 ISO and still having grains

is this normal and its my stupid head, or some problem?

You need to know wether the picture is under or over-exposed . Get the book Understanding Exposure by Bryan Peterson and read the User Manual .

[rawr]

I disagree with those bagging auto-ISO. I find it very useful, in Av mode it only bumps my ISO when the shutter speed drops into the danger zone for blurry pics.

I also like Auto ISO. With the K-x there is little reason to be worried about high ISO.

Most of the time in daylight - even when birding - I have it set at Auto - 3200 and on Av, and the camera chooses ISO and shutter speed pretty sensibly depending on my lens etc. If I'm out shooting live music in a pub or club I let it go to Auto - 5000. If I'm walking about in a dim museum or at night, I let it go to Auto - 12800.

PP can clean up any noise, if it gets noticeable.

[Pixel Pusher]

There should be little if any noise ("grains") in your ISO200 shots, and only in the deepest shadow areas, assuming you have properly exposed the shot.

I feel your pain, and have made the same mistake (leaving set on 6400) before.

Keep reading the manual and learning about the different shooting modes. Any new camera requires a bit of a learning curve in order to get the most out of it.

[rawr]

hey guys, try shooting in 200 ISO and still having grains

is this normal and its my stupid head, or some problem?

Even if you spent $10,000 on your camera, and even if you shot at low ISO's like 100 or 200 ISO, you would still see 'grains' in dark or under-exposed areas and shadows if you looked at your 12 MP images at 100% magnification on-screen on your computer.

Examine the low-ISO images on the site below closely - even from some of the most expensive DSLR cameras on Earth - and you will see similar 'grains' in dark or under-exposed areas:

Imaging Resource "Comparometer" ™ Digital Camera Image Comparison Page

Eg this is a comparison of the treatment of shadow areas by the AUD$3500 Nikon D700 professional full-frame camera (at left) and the $AUD 750 K-x (at right), shot at 100 ISO. Both show similar but barely noticeable levels of 'grain' at the lowest ISO.


For compparison purposes, this is the same scene shot by the same cameras at 6400 ISO - D700 on left, K-x on right:


You also have to remember that when printed even at A4 or displayed at normal viewing size on screen, you won't see any 'grain', or certainly not enough to worry about, even when shooting at 3200 ISO with something like the K-x.

In short, relax, stop pixel-peeping, learn to expose to avoid under-exposure, take lots of photos, enjoy your camera. Even if you spent thousands of dollars more on another camera, you would face the same issues of 'grains'.