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08-26-2010, 02:29 AM   #61
axl
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
....snip....
Even now, nearly 4 years after it was released (Oct/Nov 2006), the K10d is still a nice camera.

+1 to this.
I have tried and owned GX20 (K20 clone) and K-x and played around with K-7 but none of these made want to sell my K10D. The other way... I'm thinking of getting another as a second/reserve body.... simply love the camera

08-27-2010, 04:04 AM   #62
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man... i read through all 5 pages and still don't see a side by side comparison from the OP. disappointing.
i'm just a mere hack and struggle with my k10 also. since my skills aren't that great and i don't spend that much time in PP, should i consider moving my settings in contrast, saturation and sharpness to +1 on the k10 body? i just shoot in jpeg. looking for some basic improvements until i master the camera, focusing and composition some more.
kevin
08-27-2010, 04:09 AM   #63
axl
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If you shoot jpeg only, I'd recommend K100D, K100D Super or K-x. Those are probably the best jpeg engines in Pentax land...
K10D strength is pretty much in RAW...and body design...

Peter
08-27-2010, 09:22 AM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by yustr Quote
Thanks for all the responses - well most of them anyway.

I think I figured out what my issue was: I was viewing her pics on her iMAC and mine on my computer.
Apple tends to use IPS panels in a lot of it's systems, which are full 8-bit panels capable of reproducing 16.7 million colors while having good off-axis viewing angles with little color shift. The most popular panel type today however is TN, which is also the cheapest to make. For the downsides to TN, I'll just quote wikipedia, since they are numerous:

QuoteQuote:
Also, most TN panels represent colors using only 6 bits per RGB color, or 18 bit in total, and are unable to display the 16.7 million color shades (24-bit truecolor) that are available from graphics cards. Instead, these panels display interpolated 24-bit color using a dithering method that combines adjacent pixels to simulate the desired shade. They can also use a form of temporal dithering called Frame Rate Control (FRC), which cycles between different shades with each new frame to simulate an intermediate shade. Such 18 bit panels with dithering are sometimes advertised as having "16.2 million colors". These color simulation methods are noticeable to many people and highly bothersome to some. FRC tends to be most noticeable in darker tones, while dithering appears to make the individual pixels of the LCD visible. Overall, color reproduction and linearity on TN panels is poor.
You may be wondering what TN panels are good at, and the answer is games - they have lower response times, and are easy to overdrive (further increasing effective response time), so they make good monitors for playing games on (of my computers, I have one primary PC with a TN display just for games, and one primary Mac with an S-IPS display for all my productive work, including photography).

This is a good database for checking panel types in displays: www.flatpanelshd.com - Your guide to flat panel monitors and TVs - Panel Search

Color and gamma calibration is also important, and I recommend spending time every month doing both.

08-27-2010, 09:27 AM   #65
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QuoteOriginally posted by Deiberson Quote
man... i read through all 5 pages and still don't see a side by side comparison from the OP. disappointing.
i'm just a mere hack and struggle with my k10 also. since my skills aren't that great and i don't spend that much time in PP, should i consider moving my settings in contrast, saturation and sharpness to +1 on the k10 body? i just shoot in jpeg. looking for some basic improvements until i master the camera, focusing and composition some more.
kevin

Best settings depend on your use and preference. I use my GX-10 [K-10 clone] with neutral saturation, +2 sharpness, and -1 contrast. Jpeg's can be adjusted for these easily in post production, so the settings are not too critical - although, if you blow out shadow, highlight, or color detail, you cannot retrieve it. This suggests that Pentax's rather blah defaults are not without value.
08-27-2010, 12:22 PM   #66
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
Back in my P&S days, I found it very difficult to get any texture detail in a yellow (or red) flower at all. Nicely done.

I agree. I think his friend did a good job. I had hard time to take good pic of yellow flower with texture details.
08-27-2010, 01:42 PM   #67
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QuoteOriginally posted by Deiberson Quote
i'm just a mere hack and struggle with my k10 also. since my skills aren't that great and i don't spend that much time in PP, should i consider moving my settings in contrast, saturation and sharpness to +1 on the k10 body?
You can certainly try that. But slight to JPEG settings usually make only a slight difference. Chances are, your problems are more basic - failure to get correct exposure or focus. I'd suggest starting a thread in the Beginner's forum showing some samples you aren't happy with, explaining what you wish were different, and asking for suggestion on ow to achieve that.
01-10-2011, 10:28 AM   #68
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QuoteOriginally posted by pschlute Quote
As some posters have mentioned, the OP says his pictures were taken in raw, but he has not told us how he is processing them.

The raw file without any adjustments is flat, lacking vibrancy, and unsharp. Raw files need to be processed.

Good point. Years ago when I was doing the Canon-Pentax-Nikon comparisons, before I bought my *ist, one of the comparisons I saw, the same image taken with different cameras, I noticed (at that time) the Canon and Nikon images were more finished coming off the camera, almost print ready. But the Pentax image, while flatter, had no blasted highlights or black shadows. So if you're not going to PP, definitely go for the point and shoot. However, if what you want is a raw image, where you decide how the highlights and shadows are going to be, not the camera, then you want to be shooting in RAW on a Pentax.

By the way I get the same thing with my wife on the Pentax Optio W80. Sometimes her pictures are better. Plain and simple. But many times she complains because she's competitive and she always wants to take the best picture, and I have the better camera. But as a rule, every way of doing things has strengths and weaknesses. If you haven't learned to take advantage of the strengths of your system, maybe you are better off with a simpler system. I've gotta tell you, I screw up a lot of pictures by not paying attention to settings you don't even have on a point and shoot. I change things for a shot, and then neglect to change them back for the next shot in different conditions. But when I get it right, the extra concentration is worth it.

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