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08-28-2007, 07:19 PM   #16
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thanks all~

WOW - Posted this at work today just checked and i got allot of reading to do!

Thanks all for the thoughtful and thorough feedback it will take me a bit to digest it all....

What a great forum of fantastic people this is!

08-29-2007, 03:38 PM   #17
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Sharpness is often confused with noise. The bottom line, use every tricks and methods to increase sharpness (or decrease noise) whenever possible.
1. Use a tripod when you can.
2. Use the lowest ISO with the fastest shutter speed possible. Lean toward fast shutter speed up to ISO 400. Do not go higher than ISO 400.
3. The sweet spot on most lens is not at full aperture and not at the smallest aperture either. It is usually about 1 1/2 to 2 stops smaller than the largest aperture of the lens.
4. Using a polarizer filter will not increase the sharpness, but will eliminate reflections from water and all other reflections except on shinny metal. Use a polarizer filter outside all the time. The greens will be greener, etc. It also protects the lens front element. It givesan impression of sharper images.
5. Use wider angle lenses and get closer. The rule-of-thumb has always been to use a shutter speed of at least the same as the lens focal length or greater. i.e. Use 1/60 of a second on a 50mm lens, 1/100 second on a 100mm lens, etc. If you use a 20mm lens, you can use a low 1/20 of a second but use afaster shutter speed. You can see that with wide angles, you will be able to shoot at 1/200 of a second, or greater.
6. Use a fill flash even during daytime.

...or sell your house and buy an Hasselblad H3D-39 megapixels. You should be able to get the camera and a few lenses for just under $50,000.00

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Last edited by ebooks4pentax; 08-29-2007 at 03:44 PM. Reason: typo
08-30-2007, 09:01 AM   #18
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How does one turn off noise reduction in the camera?
08-30-2007, 09:04 AM   #19
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look through your advanced config options ... you should know all the options. The manual is very comprehensive in explaining them.

08-30-2007, 09:05 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by Trub Quote
How does one turn off noise reduction in the camera?
On the K10D, there is a Noise Reduction option in the custom menus.

Will
08-30-2007, 09:24 AM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by WMBP Quote
On the K10D, there is a Noise Reduction option in the custom menus.

Will

Ahhh, got it thanks!
08-30-2007, 12:23 PM   #22
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I guess I forgot to mention the noise reduction option. I set the noise reduction when I got the camera and left it there. Isn't that kind of a redundant button? Who would like to have some pictures with noise sometimes and no noise at times?

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08-30-2007, 12:50 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by k10dbook Quote
I guess I forgot to mention the noise reduction option. I set the noise reduction when I got the camera and left it there. Isn't that kind of a redundant button? Who would like to have some pictures with noise sometimes and no noise at times?

Two responses. First, not all noise is bad. Sometimes digital noise -- like grain in a film photo -- adds to the mood of the photo. Picasa, Google's photo management and post-processing software, actually has a command that ADDS noise to a picture. The command is called "film grain."

Second, I read somewhere that letting the camera do its own noise reduction has a disadvantage of some sort, and that it's better to get your raw files truly raw, and then use more powerful noise reduction software on the computer to adjust the noise. Noise reduction in Lightroom is much better now in version 1.1 than it was in version 1.0, but I have a license for Noise Ninja and have used it too.

Now, I will admit that I turned noise reduction OFF in the camera and I generally leave it there. But I don't think Pentax expects me to go back and forth. That's why they buried this setting in the custom settings menu.

Will

08-30-2007, 01:24 PM   #24
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noise reduction in body is only useful for long night exposures for removing hot pixels. that's it. otherwise it degrades the image quality and slows down your shooting; unless you do no pp and are strictly shooting jpg. if you're a jpg warrior, well .. you'll never get the maximum quality from your camera and i dunno what to say about that.

generally speaking, you want the camera to record the light data (raw) and do all processing with higher quality software on a pc. it's sorta like having a really cheap cd player do analog output instead of sending a pcm stream to a high end receiver. you can do both, but one is definitely better.
08-30-2007, 03:19 PM   #25
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I have to disagree about a polarizer increasing the illusion of sharpness. I find the opposite.

CPL filters tend to decrease the acutance (edge contrast) of objects and reduce the light coming in by 1 1/2 stops necessitating either a slower shutter speed or wider aperture. Unless the light is VERY good and/or you are shooting on a tripod this can be a problem IMHO. Of course there are other reasons to use a CPL.

Keep in mind that sharpness is the contrast between edges. When you sharpen you are increasing this so you should be careful not to create 'halos' around the edges. I tend to be very conservative in my sharpening to create a more natural looking image.
08-30-2007, 03:39 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by arbutusq Quote
I have to disagree about a polarizer increasing the illusion of sharpness. I find the opposite.

CPL filters tend to decrease the acutance (edge contrast) of objects and reduce the light coming in by 1 1/2 stops necessitating either a slower shutter speed or wider aperture. Unless the light is VERY good and/or you are shooting on a tripod this can be a problem IMHO. Of course there are other reasons to use a CPL.

Keep in mind that sharpness is the contrast between edges. When you sharpen you are increasing this so you should be careful not to create 'halos' around the edges. I tend to be very conservative in my sharpening to create a more natural looking image.
Steve,

I agree with you except that the illusion of sharpness is very subjective. On a technical standpoint I agree with you. Perception wise, try this. Take a picture that includes sky trees and water. One without the polarizer and one with it. Take the picture with a tripod, at exactly the same place. Then print the two. Ask other people which of the two is sharpest. Most will tell you that the one with the polarizer is sharper. It's a matter of perception, and perception is reality for the perceiver.
The original question was how to take sharp pictures. In the real world, it means using a tripod, expensive lens at a maximum aperture about 1/1/2 F stop slower than the maximum aperture (F/8 works like magic), low ISO and fast speed. It also would be better to shoot RAW, not for sharpness, but for colors and correction lattitude.


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08-30-2007, 07:05 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by k10dbook Quote
Steve,

I agree with you except that the illusion of sharpness is very subjective. On a technical standpoint I agree with you. Perception wise, try this. Take a picture that includes sky trees and water. One without the polarizer and one with it. Take the picture with a tripod, at exactly the same place. Then print the two. Ask other people which of the two is sharpest. Most will tell you that the one with the polarizer is sharper. It's a matter of perception, and perception is reality for the perceiver.
The original question was how to take sharp pictures. In the real world, it means using a tripod, expensive lens at a maximum aperture about 1/1/2 F stop slower than the maximum aperture (F/8 works like magic), low ISO and fast speed. It also would be better to shoot RAW, not for sharpness, but for colors and correction lattitude.


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True, people like he look of the polarizer images better. I did get a bi sidetracked on the polarizer thing...Polarizers remind me of this site, the best paintings in the world!!!
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09-01-2007, 12:25 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by k10dbook Quote
Sharpness is often confused with noise. The bottom line, use every tricks and methods to increase sharpness (or decrease noise) whenever possible.
1. Use a tripod when you can.
I agree 100%.

Not only will a tripod allow you to safely use slower shutter speeds, it will also slow down the picture taking process, and make you really see what you're photographing, causing you to compose a better picture.

They can be a pain to carry around sometimes, but I feel the results are worth it.

Mike
09-03-2007, 11:31 AM   #29
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AVANT, nice shot and it sure proves your point.
09-03-2007, 05:20 PM   #30
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One of the best things you can do for your development as several folks have allready mentioned is to buy a TRIPOD or MONOPOD and use it. I think it has been left to the side by many people who tell themselves that they can get just as good of a shot without one but in truth you will become a better more thoughtfull photographer in the long run if you learn to stabilise you camera, compose your shot and than shoot. Even shooting wildlife or backpacking/hiking photography allows the incorporation of a monopod or light tripod for best results.It seems like a hastle and even feels like you are missing shots at first but once you get a method down you will be glad you have incorporated a tripod into your operation.
Kenn
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