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07-01-2014, 04:54 AM   #856
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QuoteOriginally posted by Stone G. Quote
Wow, some truly great images in this thread recently.

Actually, there is a temperature sensor inside the camera. Not quite sure where it is measured but, anyway, you can see what that temperature was in Exiftool. Here's an example where I used the K-3 for prime-focus solar photography and where the temperature rose considerably above ambient temperature:



So, it could be very interesting, if weathermoon would take the trouble and give us insight in the camera temperatures at the beginning and at the end of his M83 session.
Interesting tool there Stone G! Ok I downloaded ExifTool - on the K3 it is showing 3 temperatures? Here it is at the beginning of the shoot:
Camera Temperature : 19 C
Camera Temperature 2 : 27.8 C
Camera Temperature 3 : 25.4 C


And at the end:
Camera Temperature : 16 C
Camera Temperature 2 : 21.4 C
Camera Temperature 3 : 21.3 C

The temperature outside was only about 10c by the end.. the sensor itself must have been getting quite hot as the last few frames were fairly orange.

07-01-2014, 01:15 PM   #857
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QuoteOriginally posted by weathermon Quote
The temperature outside was only about 10c by the end.. the sensor itself must have been getting quite hot as the last few frames were fairly orange.
Thank you weathermoon. Since your camera can sustain an inner temperature more than 10 C above the ambient temperature over a long night's session, there surely must be a quite efficient heat generator somewhere inside - quite different from the good old analogue film days, isn't it?
07-01-2014, 08:22 PM   #858
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No worries - yeah makes things a bit difficult I'll give the K5 a go one night and see how it fairs noise wise against the K3. Here's a combined M83 image using the ISO1600 pics from the other night with 2 hours worth of 5 min subs at ISO800 from last night - starting to show dust lanes nicely now!
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07-01-2014, 09:43 PM - 1 Like   #859
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Your M83 is really coming along Mike.

Since it's been clear I haven't had time to process anything yet, I've been too busy taking pics and sleeping lol.

---------- Post added 07-02-14 at 03:01 PM ----------

Nearly forgot, your comment about the streetlight. I have the same problem with several orange street lights out the front. I'm afraid if the light hits the lens, there is no light pollution filter that will work. I know, I've tried several of them. LP filters only work if the sky itself is glowing from LP. For street lights, the only way is to stop the light directly hitting the telescope lens. Try a cardboard dew shield extension, or block the street light somehow. Put up a towel on a stick, anything just so you don't get a direct hit from them.

07-02-2014, 04:04 AM - 1 Like   #860
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Just finished processing NGC3324 The Gabriela Mistral Nebula and surrounding area. What a pretty area of sky this is. To the upper left just out of view is the Eta Carina Nebula, some wisps of it coming through. The little cluster to the right is NGC3293 with nearby bright nebula below and dark nebula above. Really love the K-5!

Skywatcher ED100 at F7.2, Baader Semi-Apo filter, 103 x 60 second subs, Pentax K-5, HEQ5 Pro unguided.

Bigger at Astrobin. NGC3324 Gabriela Mistral Nebula (Kevin) | AstroBin
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07-02-2014, 06:07 AM   #861
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Morning Kevin,

That is really a very nice image! It looks like you and the K5 are getting along very well. I have just been following along with your exploits here.

07-02-2014, 09:41 AM - 1 Like   #862
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Thanks interested_observer. We have had a run of clear nights here in Mackay. Tonight is cloudy so catching up on processing.

My best image to date of NGC5128 Centaurus A. 233 x 1 minute subs, ED100 at F9, Pentax K-5. NGC5128 Centaurus A (Kevin) | AstroBin

NGC3766 the Pearl Cluster. That was 39 minutes x 1 minute subs, ED100 at F7.2, K-5. NGC3766 The Pearl Cluster (Kevin) | AstroBin

M7, well I was lazy with this one. Only 16 x 1 minute subs, same details as above. M7 (Kevin) | AstroBin

IC2944 the Running Chicken. This is a work in progress, about 2 hours of data with the ED100 at F7.2, K-5.

Galaxy NGC4945, another work in progress. About 1 hour of subs, ED100 at F7.2, K-5.

Needless to say I am having a blast with the K-5.
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07-03-2014, 12:10 AM   #863
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QuoteOriginally posted by Learjet Quote
Your M83 is really coming along Mike.

Since it's been clear I haven't had time to process anything yet, I've been too busy taking pics and sleeping lol.

---------- Post added 07-02-14 at 03:01 PM ----------

Nearly forgot, your comment about the streetlight. I have the same problem with several orange street lights out the front. I'm afraid if the light hits the lens, there is no light pollution filter that will work. I know, I've tried several of them. LP filters only work if the sky itself is glowing from LP. For street lights, the only way is to stop the light directly hitting the telescope lens. Try a cardboard dew shield extension, or block the street light somehow. Put up a towel on a stick, anything just so you don't get a direct hit from them.
Thanks Kevin - I'm gonna give M83 a go at prime Focus for a lower F stop and use shorter subs at ISO1600 (1-2 mins) - that should keep the noise under control a lot better. That's the only prob about this time of year with M83 is that it is below 21 degrees by just after midnight. Can't wait now that the nights are getting longer slowly but surely - gonna be great to do some imaging around October as that's our driest month and hopefully no clouds! Love the NGC3324 shot mate, that's a real beaut! Well done )

Yeah that street light is a pain in the arse, I might set the scope up so that it's behind the pillar to block the light from it next clear night we get

Cheers, Mike

07-03-2014, 01:42 PM   #864
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October is not my favourite month. The sky gets smokey around then. And hotter. Now in July is the best we get. August should be good too.

This is globular NGC6723 in Corona Australis, along with some very dark nebula that blocks all the stars and some blue reflection nebula NGC6726, IC4812 and a little nebula that looks like a comet NGC6729. 104 x 60 seconds, ED100 at F7.2, Pentax K-5.
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07-07-2014, 01:27 AM   #865
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Sunspots just now

For those that might be interested: There is a quite impressive activity on the Sun these days:


Pentax K-3 with Tamron Adaptall-2 300mm f/5.6 lens (Model 54B) and 2X SP F-Series teleconverter.
10 images stacked in RegiStax 5.1


100 % non-resized crop of the original to the above.
07-07-2014, 04:50 AM   #866
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QuoteOriginally posted by Stone G. Quote
For those that might be interested: There is a quite impressive activity on the Sun these days:


Pentax K-3 with Tamron Adaptall-2 300mm f/5.6 lens (Model 54B) and 2X SP F-Series teleconverter.
10 images stacked in RegiStax 5.1


100 % non-resized crop of the original to the above.
Nice Work..... but that means we're all doomed AHHHHHHH!!!!!
07-07-2014, 05:12 AM   #867
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QuoteOriginally posted by steve1307 Quote
Nice Work..... but that means we're all doomed AHHHHHHH!!!!!
On the contrary: The strong radiation associated with the solar wind will mutate our APS-C sensors to become FF-size (or maybe even MF-size) monsters.
07-07-2014, 07:22 AM   #868
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PK Tether and Pentax KX-- remove buffer full limitation??

I figured I'd try and post my question here since using PK Tether is a real possibility for astro oriented folks. Well, I first used it recently with my Pentax KX. All went along fine except after downloading 7 images, I get a message to clear the buffer before continuing. The only way I found around it was to stop and restart the shutter. Obviously, the big limitation here is that I can't leave the set up unattended and for darks, not good. Is there any way around the limitation? I found a document suggesting having autosave checked in a couple of places and I always do before I start. Any help would be welcome. Thanks, Bill

---------- Post added 07-07-14 at 07:32 AM ----------

I figured I'd post another question while I'm here. I was recently imaging the Cygnus/ NGC7000 area with the KX at 35mm with the stock lens. There is some light pollution here, so I decided to try a didymium filter. I captured a series of 3.5 min exposures at ISO800 and the histogram showed about 40% to the right (not quite centered). Images looked good and the stars round as I was using my motorized barndoor. There ended up being 20 exposures and then I took 17 darks before I went to bed. As I've done before, I tried to let Deep Sky Stacker do the work, but the stacked image I end up with seems washed out and when zoomed in, the stars look more like circles than stars (this only becomes visible at 100%). To date, I'm still not sure which stacking settings to use. I basically tried median and another.... can't recall what one right now... but neither seemed to do much for the final stack. So I'd like to ask what settings are being used in DSS for wider field images with moderate LP? In addition, initially suspecting that my barndoor motor might be introducing some kind of error, I took the same 20 lights and let Photoshop CC do both alignment and stacking. I did median stacking in PS. The result did not produce the circular stars like DSS did. I think it comes back to improper DSS settings, so any help here would be appreciated. Thanks in advance, Bill
07-07-2014, 11:49 AM   #869
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Hi Bill, I don't have my histogram much past the far left hand side. Maybe you are overexposing causing the image to be washed out?
07-07-2014, 12:46 PM   #870
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DSS sometimes seems like a hit and miss thing for some. I include myself in that statement. This a tutorial I found that maybe be useful. Enjoy.
Light Vortex Astronomy: TUTORIAL (CALIBRATION): Registering and Calibrating your Raw Images in DeepSkyStacker
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