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01-06-2021, 05:44 AM - 1 Like   #1246
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QuoteOriginally posted by Aaron28 Quote
i do not know bout the finder.......and believe you cannot do interval shooting with astrotracer active
I did tinker with this recently with my K3 and yes, you can trick the astrotracer to use the intervalometer - to a degree.

You set the exposure time on the astrotracer to be what you need (say 30 seconds)
You set the intervalometer up as follows
  • Set the exposure to 1 second
  • Set the interval to 45 seconds (to allow sensor to cool down and the image to be written to SD Card)
  • Set the number of shots as required
You will need different exposures, so set the interval on the intervalometer to be greater than the astrotracer exposure you choose. You may also have to set your camera up to trigger the shutter from a momentary pulse from the intervalometer.

12-17-2021, 11:40 AM   #1247
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For this astrophotography newbie, what are good lens to start with, settings for fstop, ISO and shutterspeed. I have the O-GPS 1, but haven't used it yet. I have the 300mm, 70-200mm f2.8, two good (new) wide angles, 50mm f1.4, for lenses. Thank you for the help. I also have the K-3 Mark iii.
12-17-2021, 04:08 PM   #1248
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QuoteOriginally posted by loyalt Quote
For this astrophotography newbie, what are good lens to start with, settings for fstop, ISO and shutterspeed. I have the O-GPS 1, but haven't used it yet. I have the 300mm, 70-200mm f2.8, two good (new) wide angles, 50mm f1.4, for lenses. Thank you for the help. I also have the K-3 Mark iii.
To start with, the 50mm f/1.4 will be easiest, as it'll give you the brightest LiveView image to frame and focus with.
Start with 30sec @ f/2.8 with ISO400 and see what you get, actual settings will vary wildly depending on the chosen subject and the level of light pollution in your area.
Once you've got some "ball-park-figures" to work with, your wider-angle lenses will give you "starscapes", comprising local terrestrial features and stars, the 70-200mm will give you coverage for most constellations, the 300mm will pick out individual deep space objects like the Andromeda Nebula, the Pleiades or Orion's Belt.
The O-GPS1 does take some practice, but is worth the effort, 'cos it allows you to achieve in one (careful) exposure what other system users require tracking mounts and/or stacking software for
Good luck

Last edited by kypfer; 12-18-2021 at 01:28 AM. Reason: sp:
12-19-2021, 05:07 PM   #1249
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QuoteOriginally posted by kypfer Quote
To start with, the 50mm f/1.4 will be easiest, as it'll give you the brightest LiveView image to frame and focus with.
Start with 30sec @ f/2.8 with ISO400 and see what you get, actual settings will vary wildly depending on the chosen subject and the level of light pollution in your area.
Once you've got some "ball-park-figures" to work with, your wider-angle lenses will give you "starscapes", comprising local terrestrial features and stars, the 70-200mm will give you coverage for most constellations, the 300mm will pick out individual deep space objects like the Andromeda Nebula, the Pleiades or Orion's Belt.
The O-GPS1 does take some practice, but is worth the effort, 'cos it allows you to achieve in one (careful) exposure what other system users require tracking mounts and/or stacking software for
Good luck
Thank you! This is great information!

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