[Kunzite]

Speaking of DSS, does anyone know how to stop it crashing?
Is there a list of "safe" parameters or something?

[VoiceOfReason]

Speaking of DSS, does anyone know how to stop it crashing?
Is there a list of "safe" parameters or something?

I've found that to keep it going you need to first load your lights, darks, flats, and bias, check them all, then save the file list. Close DSS. Reopen DSS, load your file list, then register images (make sure you don't have stack after registering checked), then do your check above XXX threshold, save changes to the file list, then close. Reopen, open your file list, then stack. That really cuts down on crashes. Then save the picture to file, but have the "don't apply changes" option checked so you get a color file. I think it is the second one.

One more thing, if you manually go through your individual subs and toss out any that aren't good you can use Sequator to stack with no crashes at all. Don't use auto brightness though, because it makes the output file harder to work with. It is my go to when I have super starry fields because DSS chokes on those, even 3.3.6 which is what I use.

[VoiceOfReason]

I suppose I could post a few examples of stuff I've been doing lately. I dump stuff at instagram.com/scottywbishop too, much more than this stuff.

[Kunzite]

I've found that to keep it going you need to first load your lights, darks, flats, and bias, check them all, then save the file list. Close DSS. Reopen DSS, load your file list, then register images (make sure you don't have stack after registering checked), then do your check above XXX threshold, save changes to the file list, then close. Reopen, open your file list, then stack. That really cuts down on crashes. Then save the picture to file, but have the "don't apply changes" option checked so you get a color file. I think it is the second one.

One more thing, if you manually go through your individual subs and toss out any that aren't good you can use Sequator to stack with no crashes at all. Don't use auto brightness though, because it makes the output file harder to work with. It is my go to when I have super starry fields because DSS chokes on those, even 3.3.6 which is what I use.

Thank you for your detailed and prompt response. And for the examples - I've only played around with the Milky Way, trying to get the technical aspects down before proceeding further.
The only definite thing I've found out about DSS is that I have to play with the star detection threshold to reduce the number of detected stars; otherwise I'd get a crash. A pity it's not further maintained, and better explained!

I'll check Sequator, thank you for the suggestion.

[bobbotron]

I suppose I could post a few examples of stuff I've been doing lately. I dump stuff at instagram.com/scottywbishop too, much more than this stuff.

These are great!

[VoiceOfReason]

These are great!

Heh, just wait until I get really good at it.

[Lucky IL]

Hi!
My new experience with K-1, using "Astrotracer" function.
H-alpha filter, 60 frames 30 sec, 3200 iso, f50\1.7@2.2, with dark and bias frames, pixinsight, lightroom
I took it at Kavkaz mountains (camp near BTA telescope) in April.

---------- Post added 05-22-18 at 01:31 PM ----------

Speaking of DSS, does anyone know how to stop it crashing?
Is there a list of "safe" parameters or something?

The point is DSS is a 32bit program and cannot use all yours RAM memory.
I modified .exe file couple of years ago for using more than 4 Gb.
It helps to process RAWs from Pentax crop cameras without crashes but is doesnt help for K-1 and 645 RAWs because it too large.
And DSS is easyest and quickest way to stack photos but its too simple for really good result - you dont have any control. I use now Pixinsight.

Attached Images

 

[VoiceOfReason]

Hi!
My new experience with K-1, using "Astrotracer" function.
H-alpha filter, 60 frames 30 sec, 3200 iso, f50\1.7@2.2, with dark and bias frames, pixinsight, lightroom
I took it at Kavkaz mountains (camp near BTA telescope) in April.

---------- Post added 05-22-18 at 01:31 PM ----------


The point is DSS is a 32bit program and cannot use all yours RAM memory.
I modified .exe file couple of years ago for using more than 4 Gb.
It helps to process RAWs from Pentax crop cameras without crashes but is doesnt help for K-1 and 645 RAWs because it too large.
And DSS is easyest and quickest way to stack photos but its too simple for really good result - you dont have any control. I use now Pixinsight.

DSS now has a 64 bit version.

DeepSkyStacker - Free

Also, looking back at the pics I posted in this last I can definitely see I've come a long way.

In trying some experiments in astrophotography, I've used an 11mm lens, a 55mm lens, a 100mm (macro) lens, and a 560mm lens. What I've discovered is that the apparent motion in the field of view varies depending on the focal length. The image of any particular star seems to be moving faster or slower than it really is, depending on how much the field of view is constricted.

I really wanted the super-telephoto to be useful in this regard, but it was a dismal failure. If I'd used a faster shutter speed and higher ISO value, I suppose I could have gotten something, but I don't like high ISO values (I make 800 the upper max for use with TaV mode). Looks like you either get good magnification of trails OR you get sharp pictures of little dots.

[slartibartfast01]

In trying some experiments in astrophotography, I've used an 11mm lens, a 55mm lens, a 100mm (macro) lens, and a 560mm lens. What I've discovered is that the apparent motion in the field of view varies depending on the focal length. The image of any particular star seems to be moving faster or slower than it really is, depending on how much the field of view is constricted.



I really wanted the super-telephoto to be useful in this regard, but it was a dismal failure. If I'd used a faster shutter speed and higher ISO value, I suppose I could have gotten something, but I don't like high ISO values (I make 800 the upper max for use with TaV mode). Looks like you either get good magnification of trails OR you get sharp pictures of little dots.

I use the 0-GPS1 attachment which allows use of the Astrotracer function. This gives similar benefits to a tracking mount and can achieve up to 5 minute exposures with a wide angle lens and 20 or 30 seconds with a 200mm or 300mm lens.

I use the 0-GPS1 attachment which allows use of the Astrotracer function. This gives similar benefits to a tracking mount and can achieve up to 5 minute exposures with a wide angle lens and 20 or 30 seconds with a 200mm or 300mm lens.

Well, that's the theory. I'm using a K-1 which has both astrotracer and gps as builtins. The real issue is that with a long focal length, the objects are moving across the field of view so rapidly that you have to use a fast shutter speed (and lose a little sharpness because the aperture has to be wide open, and gain a lot of noise because you have to use a ridiculously high ISO value). And, since I'm not interested in little dots, it just ain't workin' for me. You'd think I could get a nebula or two at least. Maybe the astrotracer function isn't working right or the calibration process is flooky.

[SunValley]

You'd think I could get a nebula or two at least. Maybe the astrotracer function isn't working right or the calibration process is flooky.

That's what I would think also. As slartibartfast01, you can get sharp stars with up to 30 s with a 200 mm lens, the 560 mm is a bit much for the tracer. Here's a LINK to a video showing how to calibrate. Read the footnotes, they're important.


I have tons of fun with my 135 mm catching nebulas and comets (click for bigger):

[slartibartfast01]

Well, that's the theory. I'm using a K-1 which has both astrotracer and gps as builtins. The real issue is that with a long focal length, the objects are moving across the field of view so rapidly that you have to use a fast shutter speed (and lose a little sharpness because the aperture has to be wide open, and gain a lot of noise because you have to use a ridiculously high ISO value). And, since I'm not interested in little dots, it just ain't workin' for me. You'd think I could get a nebula or two at least. Maybe the astrotracer function isn't working right or the calibration process is flooky.

Sounds like your calibration is off. Are you performing both ordinary and fine calibration? This is an image of the Orion nebula with a 200mm and stacked 20/second exposures. Second image is the Andromeda galaxy with the same lens.



---------- Post added 09-26-19 at 06:13 AM ----------

Well, that's the theory. I'm using a K-1 which has both astrotracer and gps as builtins. The real issue is that with a long focal length, the objects are moving across the field of view so rapidly that you have to use a fast shutter speed (and lose a little sharpness because the aperture has to be wide open, and gain a lot of noise because you have to use a ridiculously high ISO value). And, since I'm not interested in little dots, it just ain't workin' for me. You'd think I could get a nebula or two at least. Maybe the astrotracer function isn't working right or the calibration process is flooky.

When you say short shutter speed how short do you mean. The minimum shutter speed with astrotracer is 10 seconds.

[Benz3ne]

Sounds like your calibration is off. Are you performing both ordinary and fine calibration? This is an image of the Orion nebula with a 200mm and stacked 20/second exposures. Second image is the Andromeda galaxy with the same lens.



---------- Post added 09-26-19 at 06:13 AM ----------

When you say short shutter speed how short do you mean. The minimum shutter speed with astrotracer is 10 seconds.

On a slight aside, I love your username. Fantastic, and fitting for astrophotography.

I feel like I should really grab myself an O-GPS1 and have a tinker in the back garden or nearby...

Sounds like your calibration is off. Are you performing both ordinary and fine calibration? This is an image of the Orion nebula with a 200mm and stacked 20/second exposures. Second image is the Andromeda galaxy with the same lens.



---------- Post added 09-26-19 at 06:13 AM ----------

When you say short shutter speed how short do you mean. The minimum shutter speed with astrotracer is 10 seconds.

I'd tried the 560mm at 15". Subsequently, I read about "the 500 rule", which would suggest that the shutter speed should be .89". Sounds like that's not going to be possible.

I did do the "calibrate the camera" procedure, but I did it indoors, and the instructions that @slartibartfast01 pointed me to suggest that could be the cause of the problems. I'll start over from scratch with a different lens, I reckon. I'm thinking a 150-400 zoom. Couldn't try it this morning - clouds coming in.

I've read all sorts of wildly varying camera settings used by people who, by their photographs, clearly know what they're doing, and it finally occurred to me that astrophotography is as wide a field as landscape. Some people want little dots. Some want dots with trails, some want a whirlpool effect with the dots. Others want to see really distant things close up. I'm more in the latter category, but I'm beginning to think I don't have the equipment for that.

Oh, well, summer ain't quite over here, yet, so maybe I'll just take the 560 to the beach for some daylight pictures.