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09-09-2010, 09:55 AM   #1
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K20D infrared?

there isnt an infrared filter available in camera on the K20D is there? in looking at the specs for the new K-r it has a ton of things (cross process, fish eye, stretch etc) options to do in camera. i thought the K20 could do some of these things too...i know about some of the filters (sketch hdr etc) but is there any way to do cross process or any of the other ones in the K20? is that something that pentax could conceivably do in a firmware update?

09-09-2010, 11:06 AM   #2
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AFAIK, there isn't one. I also doubt that Pentax would be doing more firmware updates for the K20D, considering that it's now 2 models old.

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09-09-2010, 11:50 AM   #3
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I'm pretty sure I have an Infrared filter option on my K20....

It's not with me though so I can't check.
09-09-2010, 12:19 PM   #4
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The k20d has an option that emulates infrared, but it does not allow your camera to see infrared. You need to do an operation on the sensor to achieve that effect... in other words... a dedicated IR camera.

The simulated effect can be achieved in post by changing individual colour-band's luminescence.

09-09-2010, 12:36 PM   #5
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To be precise it's not a sensor operation. It's the removal of the infrared cut off filter just in front of the sensor that makes it work. The sensors already are sensitive for IR but the filter prevents IR wavelength getting to it.

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09-10-2010, 12:22 PM   #6
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im having trouble finding it in the camera still...i swear i have seen it in here somewhere before! which color bands need their luminescence changed??
09-10-2010, 01:05 PM   #7
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Digital Filters. Pg 194 in the manual. No IR option but I never knew it had an HDR option. The K7 has one (IR) and it's function is to turn the image black and white as if taken with IR B&W film. It's a gimmick and any number of software apps is able to do the same thing. The best way to get IR out of a dSLR is to mod or purchase a modded camera.

From MY K20d..

K20d Infrared - a set on Flickr

09-10-2010, 02:37 PM   #8
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the HDR option on the K20 is pure crap. that said - the camera itself if one of the best for shooting HDRs! flip of a switch and you are taking 3-5 shots...i love the K20s capabilities in this area.

09-10-2010, 02:43 PM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by insulinguy Quote
the HDR option on the K20 is pure crap. that said - the camera itself if one of the best for shooting HDRs! flip of a switch and you are taking 3-5 shots...i love the K20s capabilities in this area.
Is it the same for K-7?

Honestly I am not sure of which one to go with so far, I do want to do HDR though since its to much trouble on my D40.
09-12-2010, 08:13 AM   #10
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I've been playing some with a massa 720nm ir filter and an unmodified k2000 (ie the sensor's ir filtering not removed). Aside from long exposure times and not fully understanding how far to shift the focus after putting my filter on, I'm pretty happy with the results. This was shot from my front porch, camera on a tripod with the massa filter, iso 200, shutter speed 10 seconds, with my quantaray 28/f2.8 wide open:



For stationary subjects in low wind and with a tripod, this seems to be a perfectly acceptable method of shooting ir. The camera's sensitivity is low but it does exist. I'm not sure if the same is true for the k20d; maybe someone with a tripod and a 720nm filter could verify this. I'd also be interested in hearing how long exposure times are; mine range from 10 to 30 seconds shooting at 200 iso, maybe I'll play around today with much faster film speeds. Handheld shutter speeds would be awesome as I don't always carry around my tripod.
09-12-2010, 09:00 AM   #11
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K20D manual, page 154 - Custom Image - Filter Effect (taking); and page 195 - Processing - B&W. As mentioned, the digital Infrared (IR) filter is BS; it's really just an intensified Red effect. For real IR work without camera surgery, just tripod the camera, add a 680nm or 720nm filter, and slowly fire away. But serious IR work demands dSLR surgery or a different dSLR.

The reality: Most films are sensitive to UV and insensitive to IR, although specialized IR color and B&W films are still available. Virtually all digital sensors are just the opposite, insensitive to UV and sensitive to IR. Which is why UV-block filters are redundant on digicams, and why virtually all digicams are built with an IR-blocking Hot.Filter in front of the sensor.

Some cameras are built to exploit IR sensitivity. Sony's NightShot camcorders and P&S's (like my beloved DSC-V1) had a switch that pulls the Hot.Filter away, to effectively boost ISO. I use 780nm, 900nm, 930nm and 1000nm IR-pass filters on my V1 for handheld IR work; I also use deep Blue and Violet filters to emulate early photo emulstions sensitivity only to Actinic light (UV-violet-blue), but that's another story. Anyway, Sigma and Fuji make 'forensic' cameras built for spectrum-slicing, where filters (including the IR-blocking Hot.Filter) are easily added or removed.

Another fairly common option is the surgical removal of a standard digicam's Hot.Filter. It is always necessary to replace that Hot.Filter with another piece of glass of the same thickness. IR-modded P&S's can be found on eBay. These have usually had their Hot.Filter replaced with a 720nm IR-pass filter. My 5mpx Minolta F300-IR is such, costing me about US$300. Various technicians will so modify any dSLR including K20D's. Such cameras are ONLY useful for IR work. I'd recommend that, if you decide to have such surgery on your camera, you have the Hot.Filter instead replaced with clear optical glass. Now you can still use an IR-block filter on the lens, for general photography, or any Actinic-pass or other spectrum-slicing filter, just like those expensive forensic cameras. I probably won't have my K20D so altered, but if obtain another inheritance soon, I might change my mind. Hey, it's only money, eh?
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