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09-25-2010, 12:12 PM   #16
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My use for USER mode - a quick way to expose to the right:

1) Set green button to TV shift (constant aperture, variable shutter).
2) Set manual mode.
3) Set ev comptensation to +3.
4) Set ISO dynamic range to 200%, ISO 200.

Save these settings in user mode.

I don't often use dynamic range expansion, but in high-constrast situations, I use the above configuration to capture the most highlight / scene detail. THIS MUST BE DONE WITH RAW AND POST PROCESSING.

1) Put the camera into spot metering and USER mode.
2) Point the camera at the brightest area of the scene.
3) Push the green button.
4) Recompose/focus and shoot.

The histogram for this image will not clip, and will retain the most information possible for high contrast scenes. Post processing will be necessary for darker objects to look bright enough, but this is the only way to emulate HDR imagery without taking multiple pictures.

Since this configuration is not helpful a lot of the time, I like to keep my camera with Dynamic Range Expansion off (for ISO 100), and switch into USER mode when I'm shooting towards the sun etc.

09-25-2010, 12:26 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by klh Quote
Did you maybe hit the shutter? I often have this happen when I bump one of the shutters (using the battery grip).
I did some experimenting and I think this is exactly what was happening. When reviewing the LCD, I was apparently resting my trigger finger on the on/off switch. As I was maneuvering, I must have slightly brushed against the shutter button just enough to cause it to engage. I have removed my finger completely from that area while using the camera today and the problem has completely gone away.

I learned two things today I guess.
09-25-2010, 12:39 PM   #18
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For HDR it is possible to have the K20 shoot all of the bracket... whether 3 or five shots... with one press of the shuuter - or better the remote. It shoots the bracket as fast as is possible - much faster than I can one shot at a time because the mirror goes up on the 3 sec delay/remote and stays up for every shot in the bracket...

My setup for HDR is fairly complex, and varies quite a bit from my normal hand-held settings... ALL of the settings I use including 3 second delay/mirror up/SR off are placed under the "USER" setting, so all I have to do is put it on a tripod, set it to USER, set my aperture, focus and fire.
09-25-2010, 12:55 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by woof Quote
For HDR it is possible to have the K20 shoot all of the bracket... whether 3 or five shots... with one press of the shuuter - or better the remote. It shoots the bracket as fast as is possible - much faster than I can one shot at a time because the mirror goes up on the 3 sec delay/remote and stays up for every shot in the bracket...

My setup for HDR is fairly complex, and varies quite a bit from my normal hand-held settings... ALL of the settings I use including 3 second delay/mirror up/SR off are placed under the "USER" setting, so all I have to do is put it on a tripod, set it to USER, set my aperture, focus and fire.
I wish pentax would release a camera with more than one user mode - this would be a nice thing to have alongside my user mode. My friend has a Canon 5d and it is refreshing to look at the mode dial: P, Av, Tv, M, and 3 user modes. I like some of the pentax-only modes... but realistically, Av and Tv is where it is at. I often don't shoot with a tripod however.

09-25-2010, 03:35 PM   #20
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paperbag - Sounds like you have been ignoring all the K-5 spec releases. It will have 5 independent user modes.
09-25-2010, 07:52 PM   #21
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FB: I'm going to have to try your viewing method too. Thanks.

Last edited by Ron Kruger; 09-25-2010 at 07:53 PM. Reason: adding info
09-25-2010, 10:17 PM   #22
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Some great input on K20 settings.... read about some but others are new to me. I`ve been using my newly -purchased Takumars quite a bit lately and found it handy to customize the User setting for them.
Basically,I`m utilizing the Av mode,Sv on rear E dial,Raw+Jpeg(just cuz),... just having them all pre-set in User seems to be the quickist for me.
Thanks for all the tips,guys!
09-26-2010, 01:13 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by fb_penpho Quote
2) For inspecting pics on the viewer, I use the custom feature of jumping straight to a magnified version and then the green button and +/- button for zooming in and out. Turning the wheel got to be a hassle, this makes it much easier.
Good to know. I had always turned the wheel to zoom in or out. Didn't quite get you though. When you say, you use the custom feature, how do you access it? I tried a bit, but still see no other way than turning the wheel at least one stop to access the defined zoom level, from which then I can zoom further - or less - by use of the green and +/,-keys. So how do you jump to a magnified view at once?

thanks, kai

09-26-2010, 01:39 AM   #24
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Full explanation

Your quite right you can't. What I use is the time limited (10sec) display after taking pic feature. From there you can delete within the 10 sec period or with one small click of the e-wheel jump to pic examination.
09-26-2010, 06:24 PM   #25
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Question for you guys... I saw in another thread that there is apparently a dedicated flash exposure compensation tool. How does it differ from the regular exposure compensation?
09-26-2010, 06:35 PM   #26
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I believe the EV for flash simply adjusts the flash output without the camera knowing or caring, thus applying additional light to the scene. If you use the EV on the camera, I guess the camera could adjust aperture or sensitivity depending on what mode your in, which might not do anything if the flash is the only light illuminating the scene.
09-26-2010, 07:23 PM   #27
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I have the K20 and I do really like it. I am still learning and my skills are still increasing. I have not out grown it yet, and since I just had it repaired (lots of noise on the bracketing shots - new main circuit board and sensor), while still having about another 18 months left on the extended warranty Pentax provided, I fell no rush to move on to the K5.

I have found that if you have the wired shutter release connected, even if the camera is turned off, it will take the image(s - if in bracketing). Also, I believe if you depress the OK button and turn the wheel, you can adjust the ISO.

And - if in green mode, no bracketing. You have to be in one of the other user modes P, AV, etc.....

09-26-2010, 07:34 PM   #28
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I had the K20d, but ended up selling it. It gave excellent quality results, and if one is content with it not having video, there really is no need to get the K-5.

I also used to forget to turn it off SR all the time. The one thing I wasn't pleased about was it's metering, which was often off in mixed lighting, even normal lighting sometimes. Although, I never used any DA lenses at all, only older lenses.
09-26-2010, 07:49 PM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by paperbag846 Quote
My use for USER mode - a quick way to expose to the right:

1) Set green button to TV shift (constant aperture, variable shutter).
2) Set manual mode.
3) Set ev comptensation to +3.
4) Set ISO dynamic range to 200%, ISO 200.

Save these settings in user mode.

I don't often use dynamic range expansion, but in high-constrast situations, I use the above configuration to capture the most highlight / scene detail. THIS MUST BE DONE WITH RAW AND POST PROCESSING.

1) Put the camera into spot metering and USER mode.
2) Point the camera at the brightest area of the scene.
3) Push the green button.
4) Recompose/focus and shoot.

The histogram for this image will not clip, and will retain the most information possible for high contrast scenes. Post processing will be necessary for darker objects to look bright enough, but this is the only way to emulate HDR imagery without taking multiple pictures.

Since this configuration is not helpful a lot of the time, I like to keep my camera with Dynamic Range Expansion off (for ISO 100), and switch into USER mode when I'm shooting towards the sun etc.
Boy, too few threads like this. Thanks paperbag, I will be sure to try this. What a neat tip.
09-26-2010, 08:25 PM   #30
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ron Kruger Quote
I've owned the K20D for a couple of years, read through the manual numerous times, like a monk with a Bible, shot it almost every day, experimented with the many options, bells and wistles, but I'm still learning neat things it will do. I'm still amazed they can put such a sophisticated, computerized bundle of possibilities into such a small package.
For instance, I just figured out a couple of days ago that when you use it on remote or delay, it automatically disables SR. Since I so often forget to turn SR off when using it on a tripod, then often forget to turn it back on when I take it off, this, to me, is another of many neat features. (If that was explained in the manual, I missed it or glossed over it.)
Now, many of you may have known that already, but maybe you can share some neat features you've discovered as well.
I am actually still working on converting the PDF manual to a format that displays well on my Kindle. Even my K2i does not do so well with PDF's not designed to reflow and such so I am trying to convert to something like EPUB and use Calibre to convert that to MOBI and save the graphics....lemme tell ya book layout is a true science unto itself...since moving to almost exclusively ebooks a few years back I have had to absorb a lot on all of that...the manual would be FINE on the larger Kindle DX or DXG which are 9.7" readers but still the PDF handling would blow. But someday soon...I wish Pentax would put out a non PDF version of the manuals because it's a great way to carry them with your everywhere.

I also have been trying to work up a version of one of the DOF calculators for my Kindle (can use in direct sunlight), Nokia N800 (can't use in direct sunlight) and my OLD Sony Clie nx73v (can use in direct sunlight) because it's the perfect portable device and well, the PDF version of the Online DOF Calculator is kinda twitchy though it works on my PDA. But when you aren't able to get out and about much it sort of gets put on the back burner.
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