[bobby_navy]

Hi yes i read somewhere that pentax saves the raw data from the jpeg it takes. I've also stumbled on it once on accident but i cannot figure out how to do it again. I recently took a bunch of pictures of the crane by this lake but, i underexposed the pictures to capture the details in the water. My intent was to later use photoshop's fill light to recover the dark areas but, to my dismay my camera somehow switched to jpeg and now i can no longer do that. Now if you know how to could you please tell me.

[UnknownVT]

to later use photoshop's fill light to recover the dark areas but, to my dismay my camera somehow switched to jpeg and now i can no longer do that. Now if you know how to could you please tell me.

I am not too sure if one can get to the RAW from a stored JPG -
as JPG is a lossy compression.

However one can still use the fill light feature in ACR (Adobe Camera RAW) -
by merely using File, Open As.... and choosing the Camera RAW file type
This actually will open a JPG file in ACR, and allow one to use basically the same ACR manipulations.
(I just did this via PS Elements 7).

[Ex Finn.]

No getting RAW from jpeg, if that is how you saved them.

[johnmflores]

IIRC some of the newer cameras lets you view the last photo you took as a JPG and save it as a RAW file. I think the K-r does this. Makes sense, since the data from the last JPG taken probably still exists in the camera's buffer as a RAW file. Beyond that, I don't know of any way to take a JPG and extract a RAW file.

[SpecialK]

Too late for those shots, but if you set the file format to RAW in the camera, the camera will not "somehow" switch to jpg even if you hit the RAW button.

You can later use the Pentax software to quickly "extract a jpg" from the RAW file, or convert them, which takes a bit more processing time.

If Photoshop is like Elements, you should be able to "adjust the lighting" for highlights, midrange or shadows.

[RioRico]

Your RAW file is like an undeveloped negative. Your JPG file is the developed picture. Generating a JPG file throws away lots of the data in a RAW file. Once it's gone, it's gone, kaput, sayonara, bye-bye. You can't restore data that no longer exists. You CAN edit a JPG, tweak the curves and contrast and saturation etc. I've done some miraculous saves, at the cost of increased noise. No free lunch here. IMHO it's best just to shoot in RAW only and never ever touch the RAW/JPG button. But I'm paranoid.

[jlaubza]

I use the raw + Jpeg setting at 6mp jpeg on best quality. This gives a reasonable amount of pix on my memory cards and the jpeg images are just fine for prints and slide shows. If i screwed up the exposure, I can fiddle with the raw image and try to sort it out.

I have found that the camera's jpeg engine is a really good one - play with the camera settings first though to find a saturation/contrast setting that you like.

I use the raw images as insurance and generally scrap them if I am happy with the camera jpegs. If I need a large scale print, e.g. A3 size, I can use the raw image to generate a large scale jpeg but for normal prints, there is no visible benefit in saving above the 6mp size - Fuji researched the subject some years ago and showed that 6mp produces a magazine page size print that cant be distinguished from a larger size jpeg.

Obviously, I am an amateur and have no pretensions that I am professional - but too my surprise, a pro wedding photog told me he only uses jpegs as he does not have time to convert his raw images into a jpeg format. Go figure.

[cats_five]

I take RAW+JPG. If there was a codec for 64-bit Windows so I could see thumbnails of the RAWs via Windows Explorer I'd stop taking the JPGs and just take RAW, but until Pentax get their finger out I need both so I can browse without having to fire up Bridge.

However, I don't do anything with most of my images. I throw away the out of focus and really badly exposed, the good ones end up on Flickr and the very good ones as A4 or A3 prints at the camera club - and it can take time to work out which are which, plus some playing around in ACR/CS4.

Each one that I put on Flickr or print has been individually 'developed' and a wedding photographer doesn't have time to do that - he has to be able to show his work maybe while the reception is still in progress.

I use CS4, I hear that Lightroom is better for doing batches of similar RAWs in the same way.

[BirdDude007]

I take RAW+JPG. If there was a codec for 64-bit Windows so I could see thumbnails of the RAWs via Windows Explorer I'd stop taking the JPGs and just take RAW, but until Pentax get their finger out I need both so I can browse without having to fire up Bridge.

However, I don't do anything with most of my images. I throw away the out of focus and really badly exposed, the good ones end up on Flickr and the very good ones as A4 or A3 prints at the camera club - and it can take time to work out which are which, plus some playing around in ACR/CS4.

Each one that I put on Flickr or print has been individually 'developed' and a wedding photographer doesn't have time to do that - he has to be able to show his work maybe while the reception is still in progress.

I use CS4, I hear that Lightroom is better for doing batches of similar RAWs in the same way.

What you do is similar to what I do, I usually import my files via~light room, and use bridge to view them, actually though I really have no problem firing up bridge because actually it is really fast due to the fact that I have it running in the background all the time and it doesn't even slow my computer down, and I am talking laptop for that matter.
I am new to the DSLR world and basically naturally I just developed this type of work flow with my images. I do however hope they come out with a codec for Windows 7 64 bit

[DonP]

Hi yes i read somewhere that pentax saves the raw data from the jpeg it takes. I've also stumbled on it once on accident but i cannot figure out how to do it again. I recently took a bunch of pictures of the crane by this lake but, i underexposed the pictures to capture the details in the water. My intent was to later use photoshop's fill light to recover the dark areas but, to my dismay my camera somehow switched to jpeg and now i can no longer do that. Now if you know how to could you please tell me.

Press the exposure compensation button (+/- Av) after taking the shot in jpg format and while reviewing. You will get a message asking if you wish to save the image in RAW format. Follow the navigation from there. It only works for the last shot as the data is retained in the buffer after writing to the card.

[bobby_navy]

Thank you donp thats what i was looking for. I knew i stumbled upon it once, I just didnt know how i did it.

[UnknownVT]

Press the exposure compensation button (+/- Av) after taking the shot in jpg format and while reviewing. You will get a message asking if you wish to save the image in RAW format. Follow the navigation from there. It only works for the last shot as the data is retained in the buffer after writing to the card.

I think this feature may be unique to the K-r (uses the +/- button) and K-5 (uses the AE-L button)

One can only save as RAW on the last shot while the image is still in the buffer - any other shots already stored as JPG cannot be saved as RAW.

extract from page 17 of the K-r manual:


extract from page 84 of the K-5 manual:


As mentioned any JPG file can be opened in ACR (Adobe Camera RAW) and the ACR manipulations such as fill light can be applied to the JPG.

[Lloydy]

Personally I use Faststone for viewing and quick touch up work on RAW files, it's free and very intuitive.

[creampuff]

With the K-5, if you shoot in Jpeg, you can save the RAW data of the last shot jpeg image in playback. Very useful if you are a jpeg shooter and happen to need a RAW version of the last image that was shot.

[pacoto]

You can Look here, this in Spanish.
Conversión de JPEG a RAW. Exprimir las compactas al máximo