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10-06-2007, 12:21 PM   #16
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Just seen your posting. I have some comments to add, though many ideas and suggestions have already been posted:

White Balance. The problem is, you shot under overcast sky (high colour temperature - probably in the 6,000-8,000 K range) to start with AND then you shoot into the wood, which adds more coolness in form of a green cast.

In the film days, that was a sure recipe for very grossly blueish images - as you know.

1. In White Balance days the problem is, that the camera has no reference for auto compensation. What could possibly give the electronics the slightest hint about the real colour temperature? So, the auto-WB has to shoot randomely.

A manual WB would have worked much better and the K10D offers VERY sophisticated tools to set WB manually - much better than most professional DSLRs, indeed.

If you shoot RAW, any mistakes in WB can be easily and without any quality loss compensated for, in post-processing. Just a matter of seconds.

2. Another thing is long exposure. In my personal experience with the K10D, there is no issue with longer exposure, apart from electronic noise (which is to be expected). At least I haven't had colour shifts. BUT an inherent colour shift can get more noticeable by the longer exposure time, when brighter parts of the image produce fringes on high contrast edges, which may blled into other parts.

3. I agree with other posters, that the images don't look that much too cool. You should consider getting your monitor calibrated to eliminate any uncertainty here.


10-11-2007, 07:50 PM   #17
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I altered both the blue and orange channels unitl the blue reduced and the photo still looked reasonably like true red and green foliage. The photo is not worth saving but I was trying to learn how to deal with colour shfts and what I thought was some kind of reciprocity failure. I don't like to spend too much time manipulating images. I usually just crop because I am used to dealing with slide film- and there- what you see is what you get.


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