[tibbitts]

I have only a K100 and K200, but wouldn't spend $350 for a K10. In most respects for what I do the K10 sensor (in the K200) does provide slightly better results, but it's pretty close, particularly if you don't make huge enlargements. From what I've read the K5 is the first real quantum jump.

Paul

[GerryL]

I have a K100DS and am contented with it.
If ever I would upgrade, it would either be the K-r or the K-5 nothing less..not even the K-7. Well, that is just me anyway 'coz I find it not so much a leap or an upgrade if you do just get the K10D, K200D, K20D or K-7.
The K-x might be more of a viable option too.
Low light ability rules. No need for fast lenses and flash (well not entirely)..or a tripod or a brace..handheld all the wayyy!!!

[audiobomber]

I have a K100DS and am contented with it.
If ever I would upgrade, it would either be the K-r or the K-5 nothing less..not even the K-7. Well, that is just me anyway 'coz I find it not so much a leap or an upgrade if you do just get the K10D, K200D, K20D or K-7.
The K-x might be more of a viable option too.
Low light ability rules. No need for fast lenses and flash (well not entirely)..or a tripod or a brace..handheld all the wayyy!!!

Have you tried a camera as responsive as the K20/K7. It's quite a difference having that much control compared to the basic bodies. One stop of ISO difference is highly over-rated IME.

[kenbrown53]

My only DSLR is K100DS. The most frustrating issue I have had with it is that the mount is the CRIPPLED KAF2 mount, which only allows use of manual K-mount lenses in wide open aperture. A local camera shop sales person (who also does camera repairs) seemed unaware of this variant of the mount. I have noticed noise in images which is intrusive at ISO1600 and 3200, but I would use 1600 if I can accept the grainy aesthetic. I find 3200 to be virtually useless. Overall I have been quite happy with the K100DS since I got it in late 2008, but I feel I would like to move up the market sometime to one of the newer models. But that means waiting for the money.

Try this to enable the use of k-mount lenses.
1. Setup SR function
Unlike newer lenses, the M lenses doesn’t provide focus length and aperture info needed for the SR function to work, so you have to manually input them. When I mount the lens to my K100D and turn my camera on (make sure Shake Reduction is on first), it automatically ask you to input the focus length info. You can change the value at any time by entering the “Rec. Mode” menu via the “MENU” button, and change the “Shake Reduction” value.
2. Allow the use of aperture ring
Go to the “Custom Setting” menu via “MENU” button, change the “Using aperture ring” value to “2 Permitted”. This setting will allow you to set aperture by using the aperture ring on the lens.
3. Change the AE-L button function
Go to the “Custom Setting” menu via “MENU” button, change the “AE-L bttn on M expsr” value to “2 Tv Shift”. This setting will let the camera to shift shutter speed when the “AE-L” button is pressed on manual mode.
4. Switch to Manual Mode
To put the camera into Manual Mode, turn the dial to point to “M”. Manual Mode will let you set the aperture value via the aperture ring on the lens. You can shoot in “Av” mode, but it will only work with the aperture open wide.
5. Switch to manual focus
Actually, you can shoot in “AF” but only if the focus is confirmed. Switching to “MF” will let you shoot anytime.
6. Select the correct ISO
On Manual Mode, Auto-ISO doesn’t work, so you need to setup the ISO value manually.
Good luck!

[tim60]

Thank you for your patience with my not understanding you the first time. I tried what you described this time - the menu setting was, coincidentally, correct, and I used the AE-L button and the half press of the shutter release in M mode. It worked! Half press of the shutter release takes me back to the MX light meter operation. That felt so natural.

Now I can use my old favourite lenses - the 50/2 and the Osawa 80-205. They did good work for me back before my hair faded.

Afterwards I went to check the manual. I would never have worked out this combination of activities from the descriptions of the AE-L button in the manual, which is embarrassing - I have a PhD in engineering.