[cadmus]

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I have been reading a lot of these forums in the last few months and I just have to say “THANK YOU” for the great knowledge and opinions. I could dredge up 10 treads from the grave but it seams to be the tradition here to just start a new one when you need advice (I hope that is ok?). That means it will be long, Thanks in advance for your attention and your help.

I am looking at purchasing one of these used bodies:
*ist DS
*ist DL
k100d
k200d (out of my price range now but maybe in a year or two)
k110d
(But not the ist D because it doesn’t us SD cards and not the K10 or K20 because they do not use AAs)
Any opinions you may have on the +'s and -'s of these models is greatly appreciated.
If I state something about these that is wrong please correct me.
If you know of any other models (cheaper than the 200d) please bring it to my attention.

1) I can only buy cameras that use AAs for travel reasons. Energy use?
I am an ecology grad student so 99% of the work I do is far from any outlets for multiple weeks at a time. When I travel I travel long (3-5 weeks) and cheap so I never sleep near electricity. AA only. It looks like that will make me a life long Pentax user as everyone else has gone to proprietary rechargables.
All the cameras I listed are AA compatible without an extra battery grip thingy, correct?
Are any of the models I listed better at conserving energy?

Compatibility with my OLD Manual lenses?
I saved and saved in high school for a k-1000 and starved in college to pay for film. Now they are $20 on ebay. ouch. But I still have a 50mm asahi and a 18-84 sigma (Zoom theta III) lens that will work on a new pentax digital. IS THIS CORRECT? All K mounts are compatible?
I realize it will not have AF. When looking through an *ist/k100d/k200d/k110d is there a light meter in the view finder? What does it look like? What button must I push to engage it on these models? Does the camera automatically change my exposure time or do i still get to control that?

uccemebug in his review of the DS said:

"The use of manual lenses requires a press of a button with your thumb every time you want to take a photo or simply meter the scene. I don't know why Pentax couldn't go 100% of the distance and support these older lenses without that step."

From the owners manuals it sounds like one must click the AF/MF switch on the front of the camera. y/n? then what is second click Uccemebug refers to? Is it just to engage the light meter and get to an appropriate F-stop (at witch point you can just click away) or is it really every time you click a pic? why?
Is this true with later models *ist DL/k100d/k200d/k110d?

The camera MUST HAVE Quick trigger response:
All of these cameras will take the photo when I tell it to right. As fast as or close to my old K-1000, right?
It isn’t going to dilly dally for >1sec or tell me “no, I don’t think you want to take that picture” with a blinky red light like my point-n-shoot, right? (I have some regretful "one that got away" stories because of this)


BULB / LONG EXPOSURE.
I wasted a lot of money (film) in college trying to get a photo of spinning stars on my k-1000. So the Bulb or LONG exposure feature is important. In the reviews of these models on this website I see “B” written next to K110d, K100d, K200d But not DS, DS2, DL2, DL, & D. Yet I read on this forum people using all of these for “long” exposure. They might be calling 30 sec long. Is it true that the *ist models will not take long exposure images as one would use for stars?
Is the “B” for bulb on the review or am i making stuff up?(when looking at the nice chart)


REMOTE?
Wireless remotes such as these (link 1, 2, 3, 4) work on all these models, correct?
What if i am not using automatic lenses? will they still work?
What if i am using long exposure (30min-6 hours) exposure either of stars, nighttime landscape or shots in a microscope?
Any advice on remotes is appreciated. Quality? Range? interfere with night photos?


Also?
-How important is this Dust removal alert (on only the K200d)?
Can I still remove dust from the sensor of a K100d/K110d and *ist models? How?

-How important is the shake removal (on only the K100d and K200d)?

-How effective is the “Weather resistant” feature on the K200d? I have to admit I am hard on gear. I baby it when I can but I plan to take trips down sandy slot canyons, I take pictures of bugs in roaring rivers, I take multi day backcountry ski and sailing trips (including SE Alaska where it ALWAYS rains). Is it better to buy cheap and feel less bad when it gets dirty and wet or is it better to spend more and get this weather resistance?

-Does SDHC really mater?

-Is this pixel mapping feature really important? Since I am hard on gear I wonder if that wont save my but in a few years.

Thanks for your time, Pete

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Last edited by cadmus; 02-12-2011 at 01:16 PM. Reason: too long

[Ole]

Wow, Pete, that was quite a boatload of questions but I understand where you're coming from; the DSLR technology can be overwhelming at first.

Which model?

The newer the camera model is, the more frugal it is with power, the larger the screen on the back, and the faster it can write the images to the card (the D is very slow by today's standard).

Since you will be traveling for extended periods you probably would want a larger rather than a smaller screen so that you better can evaluate your photos.

And you'd want a good supply of SD cards.

The K-r is not on your list but that might be worth looking into. It can use AA's with a special battery chamber insert.

You're correct reading the batteries - you do not need an extra grip.

All Pentax DSLR's can use your old K-mount lenses. You use them in manual exposure mode, set your aperture and hit the green (or Av+/-) button to set a shutter speed matching the aperture you've chosen. That is "the extra button push" which you refer to. The viewfinder will show the shutter speed selected by the camera. You can manually adjust as you see fit for over/under exposure, etc.

You can read more here:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/pentax-lens-articles/110657-how-use-manua...7-k-x-etc.html

All the DSLR's have a quick trigger response, you will not notice any shutter lag besides the time it takes to autofocus if you use that.

All Pentax DSLRs have Bulb mode. Bulb mode means that the shutter is open for a long as you keep your finger on the shutter button. You may need a wired remote with a locking function with the models you have listed to hold the shutter open for an extended time. Newer cameras has an option that the first shutter press will open the shutter, and the second will close it.
I don't think any of the models you list have that feature. You may want to study the user manuals to find out.

I can't tell which wireless remotes will work other than the Pentax F:

https://www.pentaxforums.com/accessoryreviews/Pentax-Remote-Control-F.html

I have never used dust removal alert, it isn't important to me.

Yes, you can remove dust yourself on all models. You need a good blower like the Giotto Rocket Blower (get the large model). Never use compressed air. Dust has less of a tendency to stick to the sensor of newer DSLR models.

http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/259157-REG/Giottos_AA1900_Rocket_Air_Blower.html

If you're young and have steady hands you may not need shake reduction. Shake reduction will give you about two extra stops of handholdable
speeds. So if you can take a steady shot at 1/60 sec without SR, then you can probably get an acceptable result at 1/15 sec with SR.

You will only really benefit from weather resistance if your lenses are also weather resistant. WR is a good help to keep dust out.

SDHC provides more card capacity. I'd say it foes matter on a long trip (you can then carry fewer cards).

I have never used pixel mapping. I shoot RAW where the imaging software removes the hot pixels. The older a camera you buy, the more hot pixels you can expect - they tend to develop over time.

[Ash]

G'day Pete.
The only thing missing from the big introductory post is a budget to work with!
Sounds to me you're after a cheap WR camera. The K200D will fit the bill nicely if you can find one.
But you do need to buddy it up with WR lenses to confer that level of environmental protection. I don't suppose the DA* lenses are up for consideration, but at least the kit lenses: DA 18-55 and DA 50-200 come in WR versions. Whilst they may not be of the best optical quality, they do rate as among the best kit lenses available. I have the 18-55 and it is a good little performer at f/8.

The green button is a result of the 'crippled KAF2' mount that does not allow single action stopping down of M lenses - so the green button is required for you to stop down your M lens (to the aperture selected on the lens) not only for metering but also for the actual exposure that follows.

Everything else seems to be comprehensively explained by Ole.

Enjoy choosing.

[ihasa]

Get the k200d. The weather resistance works well even in heavy rain, and you can now get a cheap weather resistant (WR) lens to go with it. But don't discount the k10d either. The batteries last longer than AAs, are easier to change in the field, and are available cheap on ebay so you can buy loads to take on your trips and in the long run it'll be cheaper and less hassle.

Manual lenses without the A setting- you hit the green button and the camera meters for the correct exposure. Simple and works well. The AF/MF switch is just for turning the AF off on autofocus lenses.

[cadmus]

Thank you Ole, Ash and ihsa for the insight.
I am sure some of those questions seemed simple minded but this helps me a lot. I am still digesting your responses.
After looking at manuals and pics I might need some clarifications (so many acronyms in photography).

Many THANKS.

[ihasa]

Oh yeah, the other thing about the k200d/k10d is they're 10mp. The others on your list are 'only' 6. My experience in going from the istDL to the k200d was that the image quality and detail was miles better! Well worth the little extra you'll pay 2nd hand.

[hawk1500]

what is your price range?

[Biff]

If you at all can, figure out a way to get the 200D. It's in so many ways a class above the others you listed, and not that much more on the used market.

Regardless, happy shooting!

[gp1806]

I've had an ist DL, a K100Ds (not mentioned in your post), a K200D and now a K-R. The one thing that the K100Ds did better than the K200D was ISO 1600. The K200D and the K2000 (AKA K-M) don't do high ISO very well. I agree though, that the IQ of the K200D is great in good lighting. I've used my K200 with the 18-55mm WR in the rain and snow without water problems. If you are short on money, the K100Ds is still a good camera, the last of the 6 MP Pentax.

To me, SR (shake reduction) is important, more so with a camera that does not do high ISO well. That is why I got the K100Ds, I had trouble with blurry pictures from the DL. If you want SR, that leaves you with the K100D, K100Ds, K2000 or K-M, and the K200D.

[Stone G.]

Most has been said already. May I just add: I have both the *ist DL and the K200D - and still use both of them. But there is no doubt in my mind that you should go after the K200D.

I do think in-camera Shake Reduction is a great advantage (I shoot a lot with old MF lenses myself).

I also think you will be "safer" with the use of AA cells on the newer K200D. Many of the *ist models do behave a bit erratic and may have peculiar preferences for certain types. As an example my *ist DL stubbornly refuses to accept Energizer AA lithium cells.

When it comes to Bulb release, you should note that (as far as I know of) the IR remotes that you link to can only be used for Bulb operation for as long as you push the release button. I.e.: You cannot lock that function. On the other hand you can do just that with a cable or remote radio release (can be found very cheap too).

Steen G. B.

[DSims]

Get the K200D if you can. I still have mine. But the K100D Super I had was quite good too.

[cadmus]

what is your price range?

...The only thing missing from the big introductory post is a budget to work with!...

Yeah, I left that out intentionally. I just put my wife through vet school as a school teacher (programs in the USA are the same as MD's in length and cost) and now I am in grad school (She is not finding work as a vet in this market). So we eat oatmeal twice a day near the end of the month to save money if that helps paint the picture. So don't think I am being a skin flint. If the tuition was paid off and we both had real jobs i would be investing in nice gear and be willing to pay for it.

I only think i can do this because i see Body Only auctions on ebay ending at $150 and some with lenses around $200. I use my point and shoot all the time for my research and it is on it's last leg. Upgrading to an SRL would let me attach to a microscope in the lab. So my wife and I are willing to splurge, but splurge is ~$300. If i wait a month or 2 maybe a little more (400). I have a k mount lens so i was thinking 'body only' on the used market.

[cadmus]

...When it comes to Bulb release, you should note that (as far as I know of) the IR remotes that you link to can only be used for Bulb operation for as long as you push the release button. I.e.: You cannot lock that function. On the other hand you can do just that with a cable or remote radio release (can be found very cheap too).

Steen G. B.

Yeah that is what i was asking. Thanks. rather than incerting all those links i should have just said IR remotes. I was hoping that one could set it up, push the IR remote to open the shutter, then come back in an hour and push the IR remote again to stop the exposure. But I can not find evidence of that online in the Manuals/reviews I read. I have a cable that screws into the shutter button of my K-1000. But the shutter button is not threaded for that on these new digitals right? Also "the extra button push" that Ole, Ash and others were describing also worried me, would i have to hold that down with a rubberband or something? But it sounds like you only need to push it when metering the light. (correct?)

... the other thing about the k200d/k10d is they're 10mp. The others on your list are 'only' 6...

Yeah, my current camera (a little nikon point and shoot coolpix) is 6mp. I have a hard time managing all that file space. I have 2 external hard drives just for pics. Even after cropping I do not know that my untrained eye will be able to see the difference. But part of my filespace issue is that i never delete anything, that is a habit i need to get rid of, just keep the good ones right. But yeah, more pixels is better.

[cadmus]

Good point that my old lens is not weather proofed.
I don't not know about the K100DS, is that the same as the K100D super? hadn't heard of that either.
Sounds like buying newer than the *ist is wise if i can afford it. K200D is likly too expensive but i am drooling. These are all great opinions and points. I am studying them and reading up.

Thanks for the help,

[vinzer]

Good point that my old lens is not weather proofed.
I don't not know about the K100DS, is that the same as the K100D super? hadn't heard of that either.

Yup, same thing.

Sounds like buying newer than the *ist is wise if i can afford it. K200D is likly too expensive but i am drooling. These are all great opinions and points. I am studying them and reading up.

Thanks for the help,

You'll appreciate the image stabilization, trust me. Go with K100D and up, with the exception of the SR-less K110D. If it helps, there's a K10D sitting in KEH's stockroom (follow the links from here). It's priced at $275 and it's rated condition is BGN. From my experience dealing with KEH, they're conservative with their ratings, and the BGN lenses I bought from them are oftentimes better than a lot of self-rated 8++ or 9++ lenses at eBay. Hope this helps.