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03-08-2011, 09:50 AM   #31
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Catch-in focus . I prefocused the lens and moved the camera, followed the bee until the shutter snapped.



03-08-2011, 01:41 PM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by reeftool Quote
Like everything else in photography it takes practice. Rather then being self defeating, it allows me to take a lot of shots I wouldn't get without an AF lens.
Practice, practice, practice. Then practice some more.

I have been testing a lens that arrived yesterday, a Schneider 35/4 made for the Retina-C mount. That means it has no rear elements, which are built into the camera, as with a Sockel mount. I can test the lens by mounting it on macro tubes -- without the rear elements, it is more like a 87/6 or thereabouts, with a fixed focus of about 1.3m on 40mm extension. Even with very brightly-lit, high-contrast subjects, it's hard to get focus lock, or to see the focus screen. But with CIF, I can move slowly before a bright subject -- and eventually, the shutter trips. Usually. Without CIF, I would have no idea of when or if I was in focus.

And the test results? 1) Next time, use a hood. 2) It seems pretty sharp, wide open. And it's always wide open. 3) It seems to have interesting bokeh. 4) It could use a 16-32mm focusing helicoid --fixed-focus sucks. 5) Ah, yet another curiosity for my collection. But I digress.

Ob Topic: Yes, CIF is indeed the best alternative to AF. Cheap, too.
03-22-2011, 10:12 AM   #33
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I have a Tokina A 400/5.6 (manual focus) on my K-x. I set the CIF to '2' in the menu. But, when I press the shutter, even when no object is in focus, the camera takes picture. What am I missing?

-Siva
03-22-2011, 10:22 AM   #34
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The instructions say you need to use a manual focus lens or a lens that has AF/MF selection on the lens. So, does this mean CIF won't work with a kit lens, such as the DA L 55-300 or 18-55? The AF/MF switch is on the camera body, not the lens.

Thanks.

03-22-2011, 10:23 AM   #35
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Siva, make sure AF is set to AF-S
03-22-2011, 10:42 AM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by loco Quote
The instructions say you need to use a manual focus lens or a lens that has AF/MF selection on the lens. So, does this mean CIF won't work with a kit lens, such as the DA L 55-300 or 18-55? The AF/MF switch is on the camera body, not the lens.

Thanks.
There IS a way.. If you hold down the lens release button (Johnny Cash finger (google it)) while pressing the shutter release, you can manually focus the lens and use CIF. What you are doing is decoupling the AF drive from the lens (but it will still spin).

A lot of lenses have their own AF/MF switch.

03-22-2011, 10:43 AM   #37
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Thanks. Now I got it to working. I guess I have to keep the AF/MF switch in body to AF as well. That and the AF mode was in AF.C now in AF.A it is working.
03-22-2011, 10:44 AM   #38
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one more question : can CIF use in K100 D? as far as i know only K-7 above has this facility

thx 4 the answer

03-22-2011, 11:10 AM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by ewig Quote
one more question : can CIF use in K100 D? as far as i know only K-7 above has this facility

thx 4 the answer
It might. It worked with the K10d (but not with SDM lenses) and does with the K20d. Can't hurt to try it.

03-22-2011, 11:16 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
There IS a way.. If you hold down the lens release button (Johnny Cash finger (google it)) while pressing the shutter release, you can manually focus the lens and use CIF. What you are doing is decoupling the AF drive from the lens (but it will still spin).

A lot of lenses have their own AF/MF switch.


LOL! Thanks. I'll have to give that a try! My Johnny Cash finger needs a workout.

Not to get too far astray from the topic, but if both the lens and camera body have the AF/MF switch, which one takes precedence? Or do you just have to make sure both are set the same way?
03-22-2011, 11:57 AM   #41
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QuoteOriginally posted by loco Quote
LOL! Thanks. I'll have to give that a try! My Johnny Cash finger needs a workout.

Not to get too far astray from the topic, but if both the lens and camera body have the AF/MF switch, which one takes precedence? Or do you just have to make sure both are set the same way?
Turn AF off on the lens and leave the camera in AF-S for CIF. That completely disables the lens auto focus but the camera will still look for focus before snapping the photo.

03-22-2011, 12:01 PM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
Turn AF off on the lens and leave the camera in AF-S for CIF. That completely disables the lens auto focus but the camera will still look for focus before snapping the photo.

Thanks very much!
03-22-2011, 09:26 PM   #43
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Hi all,
I did some test shots today and Catch-In-Focus works rather well, but there are a few little "quirks" to be aware of,
so as mentioned by others, it has its uses. Here are some samples:

All of the images used the center focus point, so there is no opportunity to recompose the shot. Framing the subject a little looser and cropping may be one way to go.
This one with the SMC-M100mm F2.8 @ F8, where the increased DOF is of help.
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Same as above, but full face angle...
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Another with same settings as above...
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I then set the aperture to F2.8, being a bit more careful how fast I turned the focus ring.
The RayBan logo is already slightly OOF compared to the hinge of the sunglasses (at least I can see that in my originals)...
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Focus is centered to the image, but appears to be back-focused slightly onto the bridge of the glasses (most likely due to turning the focus ring too fast). In this case the little mistake actually worked out.
Obviously relying on "mistakes" is not the best way to approach this.
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CIF is a great addition to the toolbox, but practice is needed to know what you can expect. I had a few completely OOF shots, a few blurred ones too (at 1/80sec),
so a higher shutter speed or tripod is of help and knowing how fast one can afford to turn the focus ring, and from which direction is helpful.
I can see where a "katzeye" focusing screen can be of use in knowing where to anticipate stopping the turn.

It certainly is a more "relaxed" or "pedantic" way of shooting and I will try to get some samples in low light with wide open apertures, where "nailing" the focus seems to be more of an issue.
03-24-2011, 08:46 AM   #44
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QuoteOriginally posted by ewig Quote
one more question : can CIF use in K100 D? as far as i know only K-7 above has this facility

thx 4 the answer
It works on K100D and K100DS. The bird shots in the previous page were taken using the K100D. I just keep my AF/MF switch setting to AF. And in the main menu it is critical to set "AF mode" to AF.S (pg 127 of the manual). It is more important to set the "AF mode" to AF.S than the external lens switch to either AF or Man. The lens Man switch is for overriding lens AF mode to avoid destroying the lens gears for some 3rd party lenses. It is not necessary, but I also on occasion use the 4 way menu button to set the burst mode if you want to do continues shooting.

Since I use screw mount lenses and my eyes are not what they use to be, I also set th FI with S lens used in the custom settings. This sets to enable focus indicator when screw mount lens is used. Another visual indication to help with fine tuning the focus ring while shooting. It helps when I over adjust the focus ring in either direction. Then I simply backup adjustment. You can adjust the focus ring to fast and may sometimes not trigger the shutter. With practice you will get the smooth adjustment of the focus and trigger the shutter consistently and get good results. This helps me follow a moving object and capture good images. With CIF, I am loving MF lenses.

Follow Catalana's advice or recommendation above on focusing.

Good Luck.

BTW, I took Lloydy's advice and had shims machined with Auto/Man switch settings for several lens 50mm, 105mm, 135mm and 300mm lenses. They worked well. I will post pictures of the modified shims when I get all shims by next week. Stay tuned for this posting.

Last edited by mjkwee; 03-24-2011 at 09:27 AM.
03-25-2011, 01:27 PM   #45
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I used trap focus last night at a concert and I've never had so many sharp photographs! I didn't set out to use it, it just sort of happened and pleased me no end. The K10d and Tokina 60-300 mf combination - iso 1600, 1/30 at f4 - struggled in the low contrast parts of the stage but I persevered, swore a lot and got lots of useable results. For wider shots I used my istDL2 and 18-55WR and they coped better than the K10. I'm converted and will now have to try it on motorsport. For number freaks I took about 350 and at first flick through I'd say more than 40% are useable - and I like my sharpness.
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