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03-04-2013, 03:47 AM   #76
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I've got a quality charger, (lacrosse) and even new nimh cells are "empty" for the ist-dl2....

so..... this is not a solution for me.

one year ago, the IST-DL2 works fine with no name nimh cells.
today, even with energiser cells, it said 'empty battery'

03-05-2013, 02:41 AM   #77
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QuoteOriginally posted by popov1100 Quote
I've got a quality charger, (lacrosse) and even new nimh cells are "empty" for the ist-dl2....

so..... this is not a solution for me.

one year ago, the IST-DL2 works fine with no name nimh cells.
today, even with energiser cells, it said 'empty battery'
The only thing that would drain it that hard would be a faulty flash unit.
07-31-2013, 04:21 PM   #78
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mangusta Quote
Hi guys

This is my first writing to this forum. I was searching Google to find out if other people also experience this problem. I am an electronics technician, and have found out what exactly causes this problem. So, if there still people out there struggling, let me know and I will help.
I have read pages and pages of complaints about the battery warning empty indicator on the istD. It seems to be a major issue on many threads in this forum. I tried everything suggested in the posts to no avail. Just when I was about to consign the camera to the trash, I set the top left mode dial to flash before switching on with the same batteries previously showing empty. The camera sprang back into life.!
Wonder how many gave up before me?
Chris Bowden
07-31-2013, 04:23 PM   #79
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QuoteOriginally posted by popov1100 Quote
I've got a quality charger, (lacrosse) and even new nimh cells are "empty" for the ist-dl2....

so..... this is not a solution for me.

one year ago, the IST-DL2 works fine with no name nimh cells.
today, even with energiser cells, it said 'empty battery'
I have read pages and pages of complaints about the battery warning empty indicator on the istD. It seems to be a major issue on many threads in this forum. I tried everything suggested in the posts to no avail. Just when I was about to consign the camera to the trash, I set the top left mode dial to flash before switching on with the same batteries previously showing empty. The camera sprang back into life.!
Wonder how many gave up before me?
Chris Bowden

08-05-2013, 06:32 AM   #80
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Dear Chris

Glad you got your camera working, though the process is rather hit and miss; I hope it lasts and will work again. I did get mine repaired for 34; I cant remember exactly what it was but this chap who runs his own repair business was able to track it down. However to no avail as the sensor card has now given up so I have bought a secondhand Pentax Kx, and so far am very pleasedwith it.

Best wishes

Robin Olivier
08-09-2013, 11:39 PM   #81
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It's quite likely that any consumer electronics from the 2000 - 2005 period especially has had so called 'bad caps' fitted. My Olympus C750 had, and just about all of these ended up with the same 'can't take the batteries out for 1 second or lose all settings' issue once they were about 3 yrs old due to a particular capacitor dying. There were also loads of motherboard failures which prompted all those ads about using genuine Japanese solid tantalum capacitors to circumvent all the bad publicity. It was all caused by rather inefficient industrial espionage evidently.
Some info at badcaps
10-17-2013, 11:48 PM - 1 Like   #82
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Hello,
I just registered to this forum to thank Mangusta for his tip
Last week I bought a K100D said to be faulty, because "battery went low after two shots". I bought some Eneloop, but the problem remained and it was clear that it was the same problem as described here.

So, I grab :
- the K100D service manual which can be found here : http://www.pentax-hack.info/firmware/k10_gx10/older_sm.zip .
- a 470F / 16V Sanyo Os-Con capacitor I had in my caps box (10mm diameter, I was sure I would no be able to fit it in the camera. But I was wrong !)
- usual tools for this sorts of things : multimeter, screwdriver, soldering iron,...

I found out that the best place to put the capacitor was under the SD card reader. Plenty of space here, and close to positive main lead. A spot to solder ground lead is close enough too
Be very carefull while unmounting and follow the service manual procedure step by step : the only step you can skip is removing the front cover. Other step are mandatory to unmount the rear panel and reach the place we want.
Be aware that this involve some soldering/unsoldering skills and flat ribbon cable plug/unplug (yes, with those sooooo breakable connectors...).

And here it is, I put a circle where I did solder the wires. Hope this helps !
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Last edited by papilucio; 11-11-2013 at 02:41 AM.
03-22-2014, 05:15 AM   #83
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Thanks for all the input/ suggestions, I bought some lithium Batteries Pressed various buttons whilst turning on and off success at last

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