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03-18-2011, 04:42 PM   #16
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sport

I like to run in Sv mode and set Custom menu 23. to #2, which puts Pshift on front wheel, ISO on the back one.

I try to keep the ISO between 100 - 400. I would think 100 is better, but in the old days used to buy 400 speed film when it came to the tele-zoom, so...(old habits die hard)

Anyway, I try to manipulate the Pshift so that I'm always faster than 1/250 and with at least an f8-12 to allow for a "grace period" around my focus point. Brighter light will allow for faster shutter speeds, larger aperatures and lower ISOs.

I shoot raw. At Hi-continuous drive mode, that's slightly less than 3 seconds for 15 photos. I haven't come across anything that required 15 continuous photos in less than 3 seconds. High processing in camera won't jeopardize your ability to take burst photos, it'll just be a lag before you're able to review them. But if you're in the mood of shooting off 15 action photos at a crack, aren't you just trying to get lucky on one of 'em and not really caring about composure/focus/etc.

The class of the SD card won't affect your ability to focus. Try to use manual focus.

03-18-2011, 06:23 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by GoldenRGuy Quote
This is a great post!
More info on SD cards please. I got an 8Gig Scandisk card that I thought was fast, but if I'm reading the symbols right, I think mine is a 4. (Big C with a number in the middle, mine being 4)
Will this affect the focus in my action Dog shots, in continuous shooting setting?
In Hi Continuous shooting, the SD card speed is only relevant if you want to shoot long burst. With short bursts, the shots will be stored in the K-7 buffer and later transfered to the card.

For long bursts (I have done up to 60 s at 5.2 fps), it is critical that you choose a fast card and a suitable file type (typically JPEG files). The size of the JPEG file times 5.2 (fps) must be less than the tranfer rate of the card. For example, if your card is 30 Mb/s, the JPEG file size must be less than 5.7 Mb.

EDIT - Remember that long bursts of Hi continuous shooting require to 'kill off' (or switch off) ALL in-camera post-processing. This is critical for long bursts!

Hope that the additional info will help..

Last edited by hcc; 03-18-2011 at 11:53 PM.
03-18-2011, 06:53 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by hcc Quote
In Hi Continuous shooting, the SD card speed is only relevant if you want to shoot long burst. With short bursts, the shots will be stored in the K-7 buffer and later transfered to the card.

For long bursts (I have done up to 60 s at 5.2 fps), it is critical that you choose a fast card and a suitable file type (typically JPEG files). The size of the JPEG file times 5.2 (fps) must be less than the tranfer rate of the card. For example, if your card is 30 Mb/s, the JPEG file size must be less than 5.7 Mb.

Hope that the additional info will help..
Ah, that makes sense! Thanks
03-19-2011, 07:25 AM   #19
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Many thanks everyone. I didn't get out to the links yesterday as originally thought and have to cover hoops today, however, I will be doing the golf Sunday and will put these ideas into practical use.

I'll post a few pics sometime Monday.

03-19-2011, 08:53 PM   #20
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Like you I also had originally had trouble with achieving the 5 FPS with my K7. I was being slowed down by the in-camera processing which only allowed two images. I was going to post some suggestions but hcc beat me to it. The only thing I would change is that for some action shots you really could go with 1/500, 1/1000, or even faster shutter speeds...

QuoteOriginally posted by hcc Quote
Pop4 put you on the right track.

For sport pictures, your shutter speeed must be at least 1/20 s or faster (eg 1/60 to 1/200 s, even faster). You can set the K-7 to shutter priority in the Menu.


With burst, or continuous shooting, the K-7 can shoot at 5.2 fps in Hi continuous shooting mode:

* Set the camera to Hi continuous mode.

* Switch off all in-camera post-processing (incl. High ISO correction, lens correction, ...).

* If you need more than 5-10 shots per burst, select JPEG. (RAW takes a lot of buffer memory space.)

* Get a fast card (eg Class 10).

Why? In Hi continuous shooting mode, the photographs are stored temporarily in a buffer memory. The data in the buffer are then transfered to the SD card. The entire process might be slowed down if there is any form of in-camera PP, or when the buffer memory is full (eg if the card write up speed is too slow).

Hope that the comments will help.
03-20-2011, 09:48 AM   #21
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Still having issues

I did what most people suggested and according to my Pentax software I am at focal 200.0, 1/125, F8. The head of the club is blurred. I am on TAv, ISO 100/200 (high speed priority) and all post processing seems to be turned off. I shot in RAW this time around just to see.

In addition to the blurred club head, my fps seems to be lagging instead of snapping off.

Any suggestions? Thanks in advance.
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03-20-2011, 10:45 AM   #22
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If you want to freeze that fast moving club you might try f/5.6 or f/4 and possibly ISO 400 to get your shutter speed as fast as possible, 1/1000 or faster. Also, JPEGs may process faster than RAW. Another hitch might be a slow card, I use SanDisk extremes which are 30 per second at Class 10.

You might switch to Manual mode for total control over these settings. Practice makes perfect.

Last edited by HEEGZ; 03-20-2011 at 10:48 AM. Reason: added more ideas
03-20-2011, 11:14 AM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by HEEGZ Quote
If you want to freeze that fast moving club you might try f/5.6 or f/4 and possibly ISO 400 to get your shutter speed as fast as possible, 1/1000 or faster. Also, JPEGs may process faster than RAW. Another hitch might be a slow card, I use SanDisk extremes which are 30 per second at Class 10.

You might switch to Manual mode for total control over these settings. Practice makes perfect.
Thanks for the help. I think I finally have a desired shot (actually shots) because I finally figured out where everything actually is. I need some more work but I am tickled wit the early results:

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03-20-2011, 04:14 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by sportsexaminer Quote
I did what most people suggested and according to my Pentax software I am at focal 200.0, 1/125, F8. The head of the club is blurred. I am on TAv, ISO 100/200 (high speed priority) and all post processing seems to be turned off.
That's your problem right there. According to the focal length reciprocal guidelines, at 200mm, your shutter speed should be faster than 1/300th* to avoid camera shake; note that I'm not taking into account SR or camera holding/shooting technique. So you're already using a shutter speed slower than that. Add to that the fact that you want to freeze motion and you'll probably find that even 1/300th is a bit slow.

So in answer to:
QuoteOriginally posted by sportsexaminer Quote
Any suggestions?
Increase the shutter shutter speed.


As a secondary issue, why are you shooting at f/8? Also, why are you shooting at ISO100/200?
Think about these two questions, and think about why you chose the settings, i.e. what was the reasoning behind it?**

*Due to the "1.5x crop factor", you multiply the 200mm focal length by 1.5x, and then take the reciprocal.
**Just a hint, I'm suggesting that the aperture and ISO settings that were chosen may not have been the most appropriate settings. If you can figure out why, you'd be doing yourself a whole world of good
03-20-2011, 04:35 PM   #25
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A golfer swings the club at about 100mph (Tiger Woods can manage 120mph) so trying to stop the motion requires as fast a shutter speed as you can manage. I photograph cricket and even there a minimum of 1/400 sec is needed to freeze bat motion.
03-20-2011, 06:14 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by mohb Quote
A golfer swings the club at about 100mph (Tiger Woods can manage 120mph) so trying to stop the motion requires as fast a shutter speed as you can manage. I photograph cricket and even there a minimum of 1/400 sec is needed to freeze bat motion.
In broad daylight, you can push your shutter speed to 1/8000s on the K-7. During 1/8000th of a second, a club swinging at 100 mph would travel less than 6 mm. Your shots would be very sharp/crisp at 1/8,000s if the light permits.


Food for thoughts
03-25-2011, 08:40 AM   #27
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Today I'm tinkering with motorsports and it is all trial and error but so far decent stuff with the K7. I will be getting into the motion pics later in the day when the Indy cars go back on the track.
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03-29-2011, 05:04 AM   #28
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QuoteQuote:
I am on TAv, ISO 100/200 (high speed priority) and all post processing seems to be turned off
Hi sportsexaminer, that TAv mode is very usefull to shoot sports, because you are in control of the shutterspeed (blur or freeze action) AND the aperture (control of DOF to blur background).
When I shoot sports I will use Tv or TAv since the control of shutterspeed has my highest priority.
As Adams already said, for sports a shutterspeed of 1/500 or faster is needed to freeze the action. In case of motorsports you can go down to 1/125-1/250 and then use panning technique to get the speed of the cars or motors in your picture.
Keep on practicing and show some nice results.
Here some pictures of my last indoor sport shoot : https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/post-your-photos/135871-sports-tabletenni...pionships.html
03-30-2011, 08:29 AM   #29
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Andre, thanks for the tips. I saw your pictures and that is precisely what I am trying to accomplish basically freeze-framing the action. Your pics also have that "pop" I am seeking.

My main issue seems to be where some of my shots are focused in the background and the subject is blurred (I am focused directly on the subject mind you) so that seems to be my major problem right now.

I used both TV and TAv this past weekend with mixed results but it is getting better. Finding that perfect balance will only come with more practice and I have baseball next. It will be more of a challenge because it is indoors so I have pretty much have a whole season to improve my technique.

I will be doing Arena Football and outdoor soccer this summer to go with baseball so if I will have plenty of opportunities for fine tuning.

Thanks again!
04-01-2011, 06:15 AM   #30
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Thnx for the compliments sporsexaminer.
reading through your your post here, gives me the feeling you already have a head start. Seems like you know a lot of the sports you're gonna shoot and that'is something you can use as weel. Since you know a sport you have often can predict where the (best) action will occur and thus you van anticipate your shots.
Looking forward to see your results.
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