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04-05-2011, 05:00 PM   #1
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Best DSLR for old lenses

Hello everyone,

I am stepping up to DSLR and is looking for advice on which body
to choose that will work best with K mount lenses? Is the ist D, DS and DS2
still the best choice?

Regards

Jakob Trägårdh, Copenhagen, Denmark

04-05-2011, 05:06 PM   #2
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K100D as its the first body to offer shake reduction.
04-05-2011, 05:11 PM   #3
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Just got a K10d and love it - some really nice features and the weather seals for not much more than a K100D. K10D - shake reduction too.
04-05-2011, 05:19 PM   #4
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They're all the same. The *ist D is theoretically best as it offers TTL flash if you want to talk in terms of features, otherwise the K-5 because of its IQ.


Adam
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04-05-2011, 05:45 PM   #5
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I have both an *ist DS & a K100D. They both work great with my old MF lenses. The differences are:

K100D:

Shake reduction
Larger LCD display (not important to me, though.)
Slightly better jpeg rendering than the *ist DS (though the *ist DS is quite good too.)

*ist DS:

Larger viewfinder than the K100D makes manual focusing a little easier with the stock screen.

Otherwise, they're basically the same camera. I'd say you should be happy with either one. And you can get a nice used body dirt cheap! (The *ist DS will be a little cheaper as a rule.)

Cheers,
Bobbo :-)
04-05-2011, 07:11 PM   #6
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I think it depends on what you want to do.

I have *istD, K10D and K7D.

I use the *istD for exclusively MF lenses, and have a dual split image focusing screen installed.

The *istD is the best metering of my bodies on old legacy lenses (NON A) and is the only oen with TTL flash for flash work, but it is getting old, has some hot pixels (so I need to either live with it or shoot RAW to remove them) and is only 6 MP, but it still works well.

I have a single split image in my K10D and use this for both MF lenses and AF lenses as a second body.

Resolution and SR make it better, but it does not meter as well.

I use the K7 as and AF nody only. It meters better than the K10D but not as good as *istD.

If you shoot with A lenses, newer cameras are better than the *istD because they have better resolution and the metering with A lenses work well.
04-05-2011, 07:21 PM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
I think it depends on what you want to do.

I have *istD, K10D and K7D.

I use the *istD for exclusively MF lenses, and have a dual split image focusing screen installed.

The *istD is the best metering of my bodies on old legacy lenses (NON A) and is the only oen with TTL flash for flash work, but it is getting old, has some hot pixels (so I need to either live with it or shoot RAW to remove them) and is only 6 MP, but it still works well.

I have a single split image in my K10D and use this for both MF lenses and AF lenses as a second body.

Resolution and SR make it better, but it does not meter as well.

I use the K7 as and AF nody only. It meters better than the K10D but not as good as *istD.

If you shoot with A lenses, newer cameras are better than the *istD because they have better resolution and the metering with A lenses work well.
Similar to me. I use K100D for manual lenses only and use K20D with AF lenses only.
04-05-2011, 11:44 PM   #8
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How much do you want to spend? Do you want to buy a second-hand body? And do you already have any old K-mount lenses?

04-06-2011, 12:27 AM   #9
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Hi Members

I already have the LX and three lenses than I am found of:
Vivitar 28mm. 1:2.8, (which I like)
smc Pentax-A 1:2 50mm. (looking for 1.4 or 1.2 alternative)
Takumar 1: 2.5 135mm. (this one I am especially happy with)

I am looking for a good but cheap stepping stone, that I can get
satisfying results with the next couple of years (while I save up
to pro level DSLR)

I mainly do BW and use the LXs amazing low light meter a lot
because I often take social, street, natural light photos (at dusk and dawn)
I will attach an example.

By the way: Why is no one mentioning the K200D?

..and thanks for al the answers that I al ready got

Jakob
Attached Images
 
04-08-2011, 07:34 AM   #10
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jt_cph_dk

I think you should look at an *istD, as it not only meters the best of all pentax bodies with Manual aperture lenses, but it supports TTL flash.

these are 2 big issues if you want to maximize your existing equipment.

while only 6MP it is just fine at a full uncropped image at 13 x 19 inch resolution printing.

Later cameras offer better frame rates, bugger viewing screen, and use SD cards as opposed to CF but that can be solved by a SD to CF adaptor.

I don't mention the K20, or K10 as a really good body for manual aperture lenses as they are the absolute worst at metering with these lenses.
04-08-2011, 09:43 AM   #11
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@Lowell, Thank you for your feedback and advice.
Im settling on ist DS2 (bigger screen, SD+ etc. No green button though)
It seems to me, that even if I didnīt own an MF lens already, it would still be an idea,
worth while, to look at these very good and compared to D lenses extremely low prized
classics. Especially concidering the fact, that I prefer manual focus, since I get to decide
exactly where I get the focus. Autofocus sometimes feels more like sucking up focus from
where ever itīs possible in the frame.
And you are right about the 6.1MP being good for most normal prints and even so I
like a grainy image.
Thanks again, Jakob
04-08-2011, 10:36 AM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by jt_cph_dk Quote
@Lowell, Thank you for your feedback and advice.
Im settling on ist DS2 (bigger screen, SD+ etc. No green button though)
It seems to me, that even if I didnīt own an MF lens already, it would still be an idea,
worth while, to look at these very good and compared to D lenses extremely low prized
classics. Especially concidering the fact, that I prefer manual focus, since I get to decide
exactly where I get the focus. Autofocus sometimes feels more like sucking up focus from
where ever itīs possible in the frame.
And you are right about the 6.1MP being good for most normal prints and even so I
like a grainy image.
Thanks again, Jakob
dont worry about green button, AE-Lock does the same function. Also DOF preview activates the metering (but no change to shutter) if you want to deliberately under/over expose.
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