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05-26-2011, 05:03 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by georgecape Quote
Goldenguy,
with TAv I luv to play with aperture and speed and ISO sets itself and I see the manual says AUTO sensitivity only, so yes between 100-3200 - no settable max but I adjust the speed normally down if I'am looking for a lower ISO - sometimes I maintain a lower ISO (2500 max) and sometimes I just concentrate on as large an aperture and slowest speed I can get away with - but I am gaining in confidence with 3200!

I use Lightroom but cant remember if I used its NR function - I seldom if ever make NR adjustments - simple lack of experience. I have also improved my exposure by dialling in + 2/3 of a stop since my first few months everything was just too dark - now even my flash shots at parties are about 99% actually quite good - its the expose to the right lesson I suppose.

Hope this helps.
G
Page 91 in your manual.



05-27-2011, 04:36 AM - 2 Likes   #32
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This is iso 1600 and not too bad to my eyes.

05-27-2011, 06:02 AM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
This is iso 1600 and not too bad to my eyes.
Not bad at all. However many in the current camera culture are addicted to high ISO shooting. 1600 is nothing for these crackheads.
05-27-2011, 06:09 AM - 2 Likes   #34
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My advice on the K-7 is as follows:

Use spot metering and master the Zone System. Exposure is very important with the K-7. It does not have the exposure latitude of some other cameras in its class. If you get exposure correct, then the K-7 can compete with the 7D and D300.

Use a top quality RAW processor. LR3.4 does a really good job with noise. I have Topaz DeNoise 5 and I really don't need it that often. The K-7 reviews that you read on line were all done prior to LR3 being released, and used an older version of ACR.

Buy fast glass that is sharp wide open. I shoot some concerts and with fast primes I keep ISO low. Lenses that have to be stopped down to F/5.6 don't do you any good, and super zooms pretty much a waste of money if you do any low light work. Look for glass that is F/1.4 and has usable sharpness at that aperture.

What is your final output? That is really important. What the shadows of the image look like at 100% crop is not really very important. Don't get overly worried about noise. Worry about making images that are interesting and provoke emotion of thought and nobody will give a rats-butt if the image has one stop more or less noise.

05-27-2011, 07:58 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
This is iso 1600 and not too bad to my eyes.
I found full-frame 8x10s very nice from my K20D at 1600; I even had a couple at 2500 that (with mild noise reduction) printed out BEAUTIFULLY at 8x10. The main thing to remember is not to underexpose them.
05-27-2011, 08:01 AM - 2 Likes   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by Rondec Quote
This is iso 1600 and not too bad to my eyes.
Nice color and selective focus!

Here's an image from my K20D that I had accidentally left on ISO2500 that prints out beautifully at 8x10:


05-27-2011, 10:44 PM   #37
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Those pictures are so impressive! My K-7 will be delivered tomorrow. Wish I can at home by that time!
05-29-2011, 08:48 PM   #38
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WOW, nice shots!

05-29-2011, 08:50 PM   #39
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QuoteOriginally posted by JHD Quote
Not bad at all. However many in the current camera culture are addicted to high ISO shooting. 1600 is nothing for these crackheads.
I've noticed that, Nikon seems to have gone all out with their "Night Vision" ISO on the D5100
05-29-2011, 08:50 PM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by Winder Quote
My advice on the K-7 is as follows:

Use spot metering and master the Zone System. Exposure is very important with the K-7. It does not have the exposure latitude of some other cameras in its class. If you get exposure correct, then the K-7 can compete with the 7D and D300.

Use a top quality RAW processor. LR3.4 does a really good job with noise. I have Topaz DeNoise 5 and I really don't need it that often. The K-7 reviews that you read on line were all done prior to LR3 being released, and used an older version of ACR.

Buy fast glass that is sharp wide open. I shoot some concerts and with fast primes I keep ISO low. Lenses that have to be stopped down to F/5.6 don't do you any good, and super zooms pretty much a waste of money if you do any low light work. Look for glass that is F/1.4 and has usable sharpness at that aperture.

What is your final output? That is really important. What the shadows of the image look like at 100% crop is not really very important. Don't get overly worried about noise. Worry about making images that are interesting and provoke emotion of thought and nobody will give a rats-butt if the image has one stop more or less noise.
Good info and tips, thank you!
06-02-2011, 10:11 AM   #41
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Interesting reading on this thread.
I just got a K-7 two days ago (Dixons UK having reduced them by 20% convinced me) and have only done a small test on the local beach with it.
Am taking it to the zoo tomorrow though to see how it performs.
I have my baseline with the K100D at the same location so know what I have managed previously.
06-02-2011, 01:42 PM   #42
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Got my K-7 yesterday. Gave it several clicks. The originals are not that impressive when directly came from the camera. After PP it gets better but still not that vivid as I expected. I got lot more blurred pictures than with K-x. Seems I still need sometime to get use to it.

Here are some pictures after PP. I don't like the red
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06-02-2011, 01:49 PM   #43
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QuoteOriginally posted by benhai Quote
Got my K-7 yesterday. Gave it several clicks. The originals are not that impressive when directly came from the camera. After PP it gets better but still not that vivid as I expected. I got lot more blurred pictures than with K-x. Seems I still need sometime to get use to it.

Here are some pictures after PP. I don't like the red
I can't be certain, but it looks like you pegged the red channel on the top one and the yellow channel on the bottom one. What metering mode and exposure mode were you using? The middle one looks decent; I like a little darker image, so I'd probably drop back half a stop (get a little more detail in the sky and richer greens), but it's well within the circle of "properly exposed", I'd say.

Did you have SR turned on? If so, did you wait for the little hand? Which exposure mode?
06-02-2011, 01:52 PM   #44
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The K7 tends to over saturate the red channel pretty easily. Seems like that is the biggest issue there. Tends to make your photos look kind of flat and life less.

06-02-2011, 02:09 PM   #45
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QuoteOriginally posted by jstevewhite Quote
I can't be certain, but it looks like you pegged the red channel on the top one and the yellow channel on the bottom one. What metering mode and exposure mode were you using? The middle one looks decent; I like a little darker image, so I'd probably drop back half a stop (get a little more detail in the sky and richer greens), but it's well within the circle of "properly exposed", I'd say.

Did you have SR turned on? If so, did you wait for the little hand? Which exposure mode?
Directly jpeg seems very pale but I do can see more detials then after PP. I think this is matrix exposure. With point exposure I always get darker pictures. Normally I use +2/3 compensation. I think SR is on. I didn't look for the little hand. This is just to test the camera. K-7 is heavier than K-x but inline with my previous Nikon D70. It will take me sometime to get used to it. Before my K-x broken it took me about several month to fully get used to it from Nikon D70. I sometime do getting into trouble of this SR. Maybe I should just turn it off.

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