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**Hannican** · 11-18-2007, 11:37 AM

Thanks again Richard, I'm taking a look at this Luminous Landscape website right now

Appreciate the help!

-Tim

Snowcat · 11-18-2007, 01:14 PM

Confused, thanks alot for your link, it's very useful!

Hannican, your pictures are an example of what makes me complain about my GX-10. It's processor does nothing to correct such pictures, which i bacame used for, while using Panasonic FZ cameras...
So if camera does nothing, and forces us to choose between overexposed sky (which cannot be corrected) or underexposed evetything else... Well we just photoshop such shots.

Here it goes (from your small JPEG, could be done ALOT better from RAW).

As you can see, a little post processing and your shot is not broken anymore.

**Hannican** · 11-18-2007, 02:46 PM

Hmmm, so it really takes post-processing to clean them up?

I was hoping I wouldn't have to go through that all the time to fix and clean up shots... it's a pain in the ass not to be able to just shoot it and move on to the next thing...

BUT, if that's what it takes, then that's what it takes...

I agree RAW is a better idea, in fact, I just set the camera to RAW + (DNG) after my stroll this morning.

I know a little bit about Photoshop, but I've mostly used it for graphic design type stuff, not for photos at all really.

What function(s) did you use to clean up the photo?

Thanks Snowcat, again I really appreciate your input

-Tim

Snowcat · 11-18-2007, 04:26 PM

Well, that's really no that hard at all...
First, call Image->Adjustments->Levels (CTLR+L), and play with white point and black point. In this case i just moved the white point to the end of histogam (you'll understand when you'll see it) to make the photo look more lit.
Then, go to Image->Adjustments->Shadow/HighLights and let it enhance the shadows. Move the slider as you feel it would be right.
There is also Bightness/Contrast setting there in the same menu, it is useful sometimes too.
And another thing in Saturation (CTRL+U) that you might want to correct.

Generally, for most cases, that's all.

If you will shooting RAWs, then there are similar (but more accurate and more versatile) settings in any RAW canverter... Can't REALLY explain things about RAWs, because i myself am not used to them yet...

Hopy you'll be able to get what you want

mattdm · 11-18-2007, 04:30 PM

Originally posted by Hannican

Hmmm, so it really takes post-processing to clean them up?

Well, at this point. But you can get better exposure to start, too.

Also, you can shoot in RAW and then use the in-camera conversion tools rather than on-the-computer processing and get very decent results. Not as flexible, but you can do a whole lot. (In fact, you can do this for *one* shot, then note the settings you used and use them for other similar situations.)

**LeoTaylor** · 11-18-2007, 06:03 PM

I'm another who has trouble seeing overexposure in the LCD image. I can't tell if the area is actually white vs overexposed white. One feature I rely on with my K100D (I assume the K10 has it) is flashing the over exposed areas. Poor eyesight, bright lights, small white details, does not matter when the camera flashes inverse video for overexposed area. Since I process almost every photo in Print Shop Pro I don't mind underexposed, but if I whiteout the sky it is beyond repair.

JamesD · 11-18-2007, 06:24 PM

Originally posted by mattdm

Here we go with the "pro" obsession again. How many artists working with paint make a big deal about the techniques of professional painters?

Hey... relax, Man. If you have a bone to pick, then pick it with Herbert Keppler and Peter Burian (author of the Magic Lantern Guide for Pentax). I'm just the errand boy.

Anyhoo... just trying to help.

All the best.

Last edited by JamesD; 11-18-2007 at 06:29 PM.

mattdm · 11-18-2007, 06:30 PM

Originally posted by JamesD

Hey... relax, Man.

Yeah, sorry about that. Posted before my morning coffee but that's still not a good excuse for the tone. I apologize.

JamesD · 11-18-2007, 08:49 PM

That's okay. I could see your point after I read it a second time. I made some assumptions about the OP (which I should not have done) ... that he was trying to run before he walked (i.e. shoot in manual after admitting he didn't have much background in photography. I thought... wouldn't it be better to start slowly and let the camera do most of the work as you became more accustomed to its settings and so forth. But I was assuming that he was like me and that, as we know, is wrong. He is who he is and I am well... who I am.

And yeah... we all need that first cup of coffee (and last... going to go get one right now).

All the best.

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11-18-2007, 11:37 AM	#16
Hannican Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Irvine, CA Photos: Gallery Posts: 485 Original Poster	Thanks again Richard, I'm taking a look at this Luminous Landscape website right now Appreciate the help! -Tim

11-18-2007, 01:14 PM	#17
Snowcat Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Moscow, Russia Posts: 239	Confused, thanks alot for your link, it's very useful! Hannican, your pictures are an example of what makes me complain about my GX-10. It's processor does nothing to correct such pictures, which i bacame used for, while using Panasonic FZ cameras... So if camera does nothing, and forces us to choose between overexposed sky (which cannot be corrected) or underexposed evetything else... Well we just photoshop such shots. Here it goes (from your small JPEG, could be done ALOT better from RAW). As you can see, a little post processing and your shot is not broken anymore.

11-18-2007, 02:46 PM	#18
Hannican Site Supporter Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: Irvine, CA Photos: Gallery Posts: 485 Original Poster	Hmmm, so it really takes post-processing to clean them up? I was hoping I wouldn't have to go through that all the time to fix and clean up shots... it's a pain in the ass not to be able to just shoot it and move on to the next thing... BUT, if that's what it takes, then that's what it takes... I agree RAW is a better idea, in fact, I just set the camera to RAW + (DNG) after my stroll this morning. I know a little bit about Photoshop, but I've mostly used it for graphic design type stuff, not for photos at all really. What function(s) did you use to clean up the photo? Thanks Snowcat, again I really appreciate your input -Tim

11-18-2007, 04:26 PM	#19
Snowcat Senior Member Join Date: Nov 2007 Location: Moscow, Russia Posts: 239	Well, that's really no that hard at all... First, call Image->Adjustments->Levels (CTLR+L), and play with white point and black point. In this case i just moved the white point to the end of histogam (you'll understand when you'll see it) to make the photo look more lit. Then, go to Image->Adjustments->Shadow/HighLights and let it enhance the shadows. Move the slider as you feel it would be right. There is also Bightness/Contrast setting there in the same menu, it is useful sometimes too. And another thing in Saturation (CTRL+U) that you might want to correct. Generally, for most cases, that's all. If you will shooting RAWs, then there are similar (but more accurate and more versatile) settings in any RAW canverter... Can't REALLY explain things about RAWs, because i myself am not used to them yet... Hopy you'll be able to get what you want

11-18-2007, 04:30 PM	#20
mattdm Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Boston, MA Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,948	Originally posted by Hannican Hmmm, so it really takes post-processing to clean them up? Well, at this point. But you can get better exposure to start, too. Also, you can shoot in RAW and then use the in-camera conversion tools rather than on-the-computer processing and get very decent results. Not as flexible, but you can do a whole lot. (In fact, you can do this for one shot, then note the settings you used and use them for other similar situations.)

11-18-2007, 06:03 PM	#21
LeoTaylor Site Supporter Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Connecticut Photos: Gallery Posts: 679	I'm another who has trouble seeing overexposure in the LCD image. I can't tell if the area is actually white vs overexposed white. One feature I rely on with my K100D (I assume the K10 has it) is flashing the over exposed areas. Poor eyesight, bright lights, small white details, does not matter when the camera flashes inverse video for overexposed area. Since I process almost every photo in Print Shop Pro I don't mind underexposed, but if I whiteout the sky it is beyond repair.

11-18-2007, 06:24 PM	#22
JamesD Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 536	Originally posted by mattdm Here we go with the "pro" obsession again. How many artists working with paint make a big deal about the techniques of professional painters? Hey... relax, Man. If you have a bone to pick, then pick it with Herbert Keppler and Peter Burian (author of the Magic Lantern Guide for Pentax). I'm just the errand boy. Anyhoo... just trying to help. All the best. Last edited by JamesD; 11-18-2007 at 06:29 PM.

11-18-2007, 06:30 PM	#23
mattdm Veteran Member Join Date: Feb 2007 Location: Boston, MA Photos: Gallery Posts: 2,948	Originally posted by JamesD Hey... relax, Man. Yeah, sorry about that. Posted before my morning coffee but that's still not a good excuse for the tone. I apologize.

11-18-2007, 08:49 PM	#24
JamesD Veteran Member Join Date: Oct 2007 Location: USA Photos: Gallery Posts: 536	That's okay. I could see your point after I read it a second time. I made some assumptions about the OP (which I should not have done) ... that he was trying to run before he walked (i.e. shoot in manual after admitting he didn't have much background in photography. I thought... wouldn't it be better to start slowly and let the camera do most of the work as you became more accustomed to its settings and so forth. But I was assuming that he was like me and that, as we know, is wrong. He is who he is and I am well... who I am. And yeah... we all need that first cup of coffee (and last... going to go get one right now). All the best.

Took my new K10d for it's first stroll...

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