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11-29-2007, 08:55 PM   #1
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hot pixels on a brand new camera?

is it normal to have hot pixels, right out of the box? K110d, this is..

11-29-2007, 09:07 PM   #2
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No, but it happens. Send an email to Pentax support asking what the situation is regarding repair/replacement.
11-29-2007, 10:18 PM   #3
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QuoteOriginally posted by SupremeMoFo Quote
No, but it happens. Send an email to Pentax support asking what the situation is regarding repair/replacement.
i suppose my next question would be.. what's considered unacceptable? and, the hot pixel i remember seeing earlier is gone, after updating to the latest firmware, and there's now 1 pixel in a new spot.. (i tested by doing a 30 sec exposure with the lens cap on)
11-29-2007, 10:24 PM   #4
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Search the older threads here. I had some on my K100D, and e-mailed Pentax. They said that they'd map them out under warranty -- all I had to do was send it back to them and wait a month or two.

My K10D appears to have one which only shows up intermittently (but at the same place) and only at high ISO. I'm keeping a watch on it to see if it gets worse.

11-29-2007, 10:39 PM   #5
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QuoteOriginally posted by OniFactor Quote
i suppose my next question would be.. what's considered unacceptable? and, the hot pixel i remember seeing earlier is gone, after updating to the latest firmware, and there's now 1 pixel in a new spot.. (i tested by doing a 30 sec exposure with the lens cap on)
Huh, 30 sec lens cap test and just one hot pixel? Wow! You're very lucky.

Can you see the same pixel in 1/10 sec. shot? If you can't stop looking for problems and start to use it for what it was designed: taking pictures

My experience says that when camera have real problems you will start to see those problems in your pictures.
11-29-2007, 11:47 PM   #6
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QuoteOriginally posted by Edvinas Quote
Huh, 30 sec lens cap test and just one hot pixel? Wow! You're very lucky.

Can you see the same pixel in 1/10 sec. shot? If you can't stop looking for problems and start to use it for what it was designed: taking pictures

My experience says that when camera have real problems you will start to see those problems in your pictures.
Cannot see any hot pixels with the above test on my K10D 30 sec at f/22 at 100 ISO. I don't think I'll worry about this one.
11-30-2007, 12:19 AM   #7
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
Cannot see any hot pixels with the above test on my K10D 30 sec at f/22 at 100 ISO. I don't think I'll worry about this one.
Did you turn noise reduction off before doing this?
11-30-2007, 12:48 AM   #8
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edvinas, i was worried because it showed up in a shot, very early on, as a bright blue pixel, that's why i was testing

11-30-2007, 01:16 AM   #9
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QuoteOriginally posted by OniFactor Quote
edvinas, i was worried because it showed up in a shot, very early on, as a bright blue pixel, that's why i was testing
If it shows up in normal pictures then yes, you have stuck pixel...
11-30-2007, 06:58 AM   #10
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The first time I read about hot pixels, I took a look at my images a little more closely. I saw 1 hot pixel and thought OMG! the camera is bad. Then I calmed down and thought it out. One pixel that appears intermittently and depending on shooting conditions out of a little more than 10 million pixels. That ain't bad at all. I stopped worrying about it asap and started shooting. Now I couldn't tell you if I have any or not.

I agree with one of edvinas posts. Stop looking for problems and start shooting. If it gets worse, then yes, you may have to do something about it.
11-30-2007, 04:49 PM   #11
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QuoteOriginally posted by Edvinas Quote
Did you turn noise reduction off before doing this?
I turned noise reduction off as soon as I got the camera. I want the sharpest images possible.

My USER mode settings allow only up to 400 ISO, My Program line is MTF.

I allow [Green] mode to go to 1600, because that gives me a really quick way to get there when I need it. If I need it, that is. With two DA* f/2.8 lenses and Shake Reduction, it has to get pretty dark out there before I need a higher ISO, and then I cannot see well enough and use a tripod.
11-30-2007, 07:53 PM   #12
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
I turned noise reduction off as soon as I got the camera. I want the sharpest images possible.
The in-camera noise reduction which you have an option of turning off is dark-frame subtraction, which shouldn't have a significant adverse effect on sharpness.
11-30-2007, 11:03 PM   #13
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QuoteOriginally posted by mattdm Quote
The in-camera noise reduction which you have an option of turning off is dark-frame subtraction, which shouldn't have a significant adverse effect on sharpness.
Are you sure? I understood it to be a slight increase in the blur to smooth the image from the (some say) over crisp rendition the K10D does natively. Dark frame subtraction requires an exposure with the shutter closed, and then a merging of the two images to remove spurious pixels.
12-01-2007, 06:29 AM   #14
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
Are you sure? I understood it to be a slight increase in the blur to smooth the image from the (some say) over crisp rendition the K10D does natively. Dark frame subtraction requires an exposure with the shutter closed, and then a merging of the two images to remove spurious pixels.
There's probably a little bit, but it's not intentional blur like that from a one-image noise reduction algorithm.
12-02-2007, 11:45 PM   #15
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QuoteOriginally posted by Canada_Rockies Quote
Are you sure? I understood it to be a slight increase in the blur to smooth the image from the (some say) over crisp rendition the K10D does natively. Dark frame subtraction requires an exposure with the shutter closed, and then a merging of the two images to remove spurious pixels.
Yes, he is sure and he is right. "Noise reduction" in K10D menu is for dark frame subtraction and is activated only in longer exposures (longer than two seconds if I am not mistaken).
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