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09-09-2011, 05:58 PM   #31
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For my shooting style, I only use three modes. M, AV, and B. I use M when I use full manual lenses and when shooting static subjects. I use AV when I shoot sports or any fast moving subjects, and when sometimes I get tired on full manual mode. I use B for extended exposures. I never use Green, P, SV, TAV, X, or USER. hehe. =)

09-09-2011, 08:15 PM   #32
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Used to shoot alot in P mode while walking around - Then M when I was shooting by myself and out shooting dedicatedly. Up untill recently have gone to TAv which was best of both these however my front e-dial is playing up (K7) so I am now flicking between Av and Tv about 60/40 split.
On Kx use Av or Tv due to single dial.
09-09-2011, 09:21 PM   #33
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I am relatively new to my K-r, and it's been largely AV. I don't quite understand what P mode actually controls. The manual is a bit opaque. A link or bit of info from the vets would be appreciated.
09-09-2011, 11:29 PM   #34
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I don't know about using it on a K-r but on the K5 (K7 as well), P mode basically puts Av and Tv at your fingertips on the E-dials. Turn the rear dial (on my camera) to use Tv and turn the front dial to use Av. ISO can be auto or fixed. On a single e-dial camera, there is probably a button press involved to switch between Av and Tv. I don't use P mode because I would rather have the front dial available for exposure compensation or ISO change on the fly (right now it's EV Comp).



09-10-2011, 12:52 AM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
I don't know about using it on a K-r but on the K5 (K7 as well), P mode basically puts Av and Tv at your fingertips on the E-dials. Turn the rear dial (on my camera) to use Tv and turn the front dial to use Av. ISO can be auto or fixed. On a single e-dial camera, there is probably a button press involved to switch between Av and Tv. I don't use P mode because I would rather have the front dial available for exposure compensation or ISO change on the fly (right now it's EV Comp).
I similarly use P mode on my 2-dial K20D rather as a super-auto mode, easy to intervene in any of the exposure parameters. Rear dial adjusts aperture, front dial adjusts shutter; or hold the OK button, and front dial adjusts ISO; hold the OK button and hit the Green button to jump back to AUTO ISO; hold down the +- button, and front dial adjusts EV. I don't think of mode changes there, just adjustments. P mode encompasses all the Auto modes except TAv -- almost a manual-auto mode! So with A-type and AF lenses, I generally skip-over the Sv-Tv-Av positions unless I have a specific need.

I also hit USER mode, setup same as P mode but with Continuous (Lo) for 2.3 fps (until the card is full!) -- which leads me to a new rant:

IMHO what makes the K20D semi-pro and not a pro camera is the lack of a drive control dial. Crawling through menus to change drive settings? That sucks. I should at least be able to surf between single--burst--continuous (Lo)(Hi) without menu-diving. Maybe tweak the AF button (which is rather redundant anyway) so that holding it and spinning the front e-dial cycles-through drive modes. Can we get a firmware hack for this?
09-10-2011, 01:00 AM   #36
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It really depends upon the day, the situation and the lens that's on my camera. Often if there is something fast going on, like a bird nearby that's skittish and not likely to stay I'll put the camera on AF and a program mode. With my *ist I used full manual mode almost exclusively because I never felt the program modes were all that great, but with the K-x I do find myself using the program modes once in a while because they are extremely reliable.

I really prefer to set everything myself really, and if I have the time I will try to do that, but I also usually take a few shots in a program mode with AF then go to manual mode just to be sure I've got something that is properly focused. Fact is I've been having major problems with my eyes for a while now too so while I hate moving more to AF and using a program mode there are some days when the allergies and the eye inflammation is a real enough problem that I do have to rely on it a bit. I don't want to miss a good photo because I just can't see well enough to MF. I try to do a bit of both. Some days I'm fine and I can do manual all day if I want, and usually do, but sometimes it just doesn't work particularly well for me, trying to use the manual lenses. (No amount of eye drops and/or medications seems to help much when it's bad.)

This problem is why I finally ended up getting a kit lens and the Sigma zoom. I just finally got to the point where I really needed the AF more. I still try not to rely on the camera's program modes and AF too much, but sometimes I must admit I'm glad the option is there and that I can shoot in RAW. I can see things a lot better on the big monitor in Bridge and Photoshop than I can on/in the camera some days. A little post processing doesn't bother me. I do what I have to do to get my shot. I like full control but if I can't hardly see straight then I'm definitely not too proud to use the AF and program modes. Most of the time my K-x is a fully manual camera in my hands, but sometimes, it's a glorified point and shoot. Whatever works, shrug.
09-10-2011, 02:08 PM   #37
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
IMHO what makes the K20D semi-pro and not a pro camera is the lack of a drive control dial. Crawling through menus to change drive settings? That sucks. I should at least be able to surf between single--burst--continuous (Lo)(Hi) without menu-diving. Maybe tweak the AF button (which is rather redundant anyway) so that holding it and spinning the front e-dial cycles-through drive modes. Can we get a firmware hack for this?
It's more than just the drive mode keeping the K20D from being a true professional camera. I am discovering this as I grow beyond it's capabilities, but you hit on a great point. It would be nice to be able to customize the buttons.

For me the AF button is not redundant at all, I have taken AF off the shutter release, so the AF button is the only way it works now. I hated when I would focus, then recompose a shot, and my finger would let off just a bit on the shutter, so when I went to take the shot, the AF would hunt again, it was especially bad in low light. But, there's no AF button on the battery grip, so when I have the camera in portrait orientation, I have to really stretch my thumb, and usually take my eye away from the VF to find the auto focus button (they fixed this problem in the K-5's batter grip, but that one doesn't hold a remote). I can live without the green button and the EV button, so it would be great if I could remap the AF to one of those on the grip.
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