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09-14-2011, 09:38 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by cali92rs Quote
I've long debated whether or not to get one of these screens...how is your spot metering after putting one on?
No problem at all - though, depending on the lens, I always have the EV comp set anywhere from 0 to -1 to ensure no blown highlights.

09-14-2011, 07:37 PM   #17
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I developed a focus method that I've used since the 1970s, but a couple of years ago I bought a Katzeye screen for my K20D. I could see where one of these things would help someone with little experience with MF, but I didn't like it as much as the original screen. All those lines tended to get in the way, and it seemed the viewfinder was darker. On spot metering (which I use all the time for wildlife), the camera seemed to meter pretty well, but not with my 200mm. It screwed that up so badly each time that I had to switch to center weighted. All in all, I feel I wasted my money on this screen.
09-16-2011, 06:39 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ron Kruger Quote
I developed a focus method that I've used since the 1970s
Do tell?

Anyway, for me, I've been using one of the screens from the link above (i think a Nikon K3 or something to that effect) with good success. It was a bit of a harrowing journey installing it (i had to shim mine with the provided shims to be spot on), but now I have no real issue.

While live view is fantastic for absolute precision (with the Rikenon 55/1.2 at min focus distance for example), the focus screen does offer speed and handling that cant be matched by LV.
09-16-2011, 10:59 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ron Kruger Quote
I developed a focus method that I've used since the 1970s, but a couple of years ago I bought a Katzeye screen for my K20D. I could see where one of these things would help someone with little experience with MF, but I didn't like it as much as the original screen. All those lines tended to get in the way, and it seemed the viewfinder was darker. On spot metering (which I use all the time for wildlife), the camera seemed to meter pretty well, but not with my 200mm. It screwed that up so badly each time that I had to switch to center weighted. All in all, I feel I wasted my money on this screen.
Yes, like Feilb I'd also like to know your secret ! Always room for improvement to my MF skills (or lack of)

Personally I have to first find which side of the 'in-focus green hexagon range' is actually in-focus and which side is fibbing ! Most of my MF lenses hit actual focus (not what the green hexagon says is in focus) when focussing from infinity to close, though I have one or two that are close out to infinity.

09-17-2011, 10:57 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by kevbirder Quote
I'm considering getting a K-5. Currently I have a GX-10 (K10D).
Mostly I use a manual focus 400mm Sigma lens for bird photography.
With the GX-10 I was disappointed in the manual focussing and discovered that the focus screen sees more in focus than the sensor does. Apparently that helps the focus screen brightness. It certainly doesn't help with manual focus.

Solution (part solution anyway) was to get a new focus screen at great expense from Katz Eye. I say part solution as I may have a small back focus issue as well.

Now on to the K-5. Should I expect the same issue with the K5 and have to replace the focus screen. Would the one I bought for the GX-10 fit (same size as K10D)?

Does Live View make all this redundant? i.e. stop using the viewfinder and zoom in to focus? I guess not for birds in flight etc.

Another question is whether I can expect auto ISO to be any use on the K-5. It's hopeless on the GX-10, there seems to be no way to set the shutter speed at say 1/500th, set the aperture at f8 and let auto ISO do its thing. When I used to use a mirror lens I thought auto ISO would be perfect as the aperture was fixed, shutter speed always had to be high, so best control was by ISO adjustment. For some reason, the auto ISO thought it a good idea to reduce the shutter speed down to 1/90 before it would consider upping the ISO.

Of course any wisdom about K10D and GX-10 welcomed too.
I'm sure someone has already said it but I'll say it again. TAv does exactly that. It's a full manual mode with Auto ISO. The only difference between it and M mode is that you cannot turn off Auto ISO in TAv.

09-20-2011, 12:03 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by JeffJS Quote
I'm sure someone has already said it but I'll say it again. TAv does exactly that. It's a full manual mode with Auto ISO. The only difference between it and M mode is that you cannot turn off Auto ISO in TAv.

Thanks, Yes in fact TAv mode it turns out does work with my lens which is an A series Sigma. I'm sure I couldn't get it to work well on the fully manual Mirror lens that I used to use, but for now TAv looks useful.
09-20-2011, 12:56 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by kevbirder Quote
Thanks, Yes in fact TAv mode it turns out does work with my lens which is an A series Sigma. I'm sure I couldn't get it to work well on the fully manual Mirror lens that I used to use, but for now TAv looks useful.
With a fully manual mirror it reverts to Av even when set on TAv. However you can still use CIF which is interesting and a great help with a 500mm mirror (I have the Tamron).
09-20-2011, 01:15 PM   #23
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We need focus peaking in live view. Makes using manual focus lenses so much easier when framing moving objects and pre-focusing.

09-21-2011, 12:02 AM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by Eruditass Quote
We need focus peaking in live view. Makes using manual focus lenses so much easier when framing moving objects and pre-focusing.

It does. That is a fantastic feature of the new Sony MILC cameras and I love it ... however CIF is still faster.
09-27-2011, 02:22 PM   #25
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CIF sometimes allows too big of an area to be in focus or is too slow in low light. With peaking, I can see the near and far range, so it's easier to pick the area of highest focus. I haven't been able to use FP much though in hard situations, but the fact that Ricoh's other cameras have it is a good sign.
09-27-2011, 06:04 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by kevbirder Quote
...
Solution (part solution anyway) was to get a new focus screen at great expense from Katz Eye. I say part solution as I may have a small back focus issue as well.
...
Of course any wisdom about K10D and GX-10 welcomed too.
Did you ever calibrate the focusing screen? The Katzeye for my K10D had to be calibrated.
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