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11-28-2011, 11:53 AM   #31
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QuoteOriginally posted by excanonfd Quote
As much as I am curious about the Canon screen, I don't think I will invest in another screen - I already have KatzEye and the Pentax LL-60 for my K20D. I don't understand your trepidation about replacing screens - you really cannot "mess up" - you can always put back the stock screen and the original shim and you will be back to square one. If you "mess up", I will buy the Canon screen from you as I will surely get a K-5 in the near future and I am thinking that I should acquire all of the extra components that I have used on my K20D beforehand.
You may call that "trepidation" or anxiety from my part, but I have always been weary of messing up a fine piece of equipment by fiddling with it! Sorry, but it's my nature !

That is why I said earlier that when I get the screen, I will install (try to) on the K7 first. Not that the latter is a lesser product but at least I will have the K5 untouched .... just in case.

I certainly will seek help here if I run into any trouble.

Cheers.

JP

11-29-2011, 12:47 AM   #32
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QuoteOriginally posted by jpzk Quote
1. a screen allowing for ACURATE manual focusing with those lenses, especially wide open.
2. A screen that will be bright.
3. A screen which will not fool the metering system with underexposure, etc ...
Well, the EE-S scores 2 points on your list:
1- it can accurately focus my samyang 85/1.4, waaaaaay better than any split screen I ever had...
3- it is perfectly linear in regards to metering and aperture...

As for 2), it is slightly darker than the stock screen for lenses wider than f/4, then brighter for anything smaller than that...
11-29-2011, 02:52 PM   #33
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QuoteOriginally posted by dlacouture Quote
Well, the EE-S scores 2 points on your list:
1- it can accurately focus my samyang 85/1.4, waaaaaay better than any split screen I ever had...
3- it is perfectly linear in regards to metering and aperture...

As for 2), it is slightly darker than the stock screen for lenses wider than f/4, then brighter for anything smaller than that...
Thanks!

This definitely makes my decision a lot easier as to "get it or not"!

But now I am confused as to which of the Canon screens to get: the ee-S or the Ec-A such as discussed on this post?

JP
11-29-2011, 07:01 PM   #34
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My favorite screen is plain ground-glass - and next is ground-glass with microprism spot. I like as little clutter as possible in the screen, and wish I could do away with all the dSLR focus and metering indicators that flash and jump around. Probably why I've enjoyed going all the way back to my Pentax H1a and Spotmatic!
The microprism screens match the angle of the prism faces to the expected angle of light rays from the edges of the lens, and few today are designed for fast lenses. The Pentax LX film camera had an optional screen for fast lenses, and it worked quite well.
The Leica SLRs originally had maximum f2.0 lenses, and microprism screens designed for them. When I got a 50 f1.4 Summilux-R I found I couldn't focus it as well as the Summicron f2. Then I finally got a plain ground-glass screen for my R4, and immediately the 1.4 focused easier than the f2.
So if you use fast glass, try a plain screen. It may not be as bright as the "modern" ones, but focus accuracy can't be beat!

11-29-2011, 07:04 PM   #35
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Thanks for the great info feilb, I have been looking hard at the Ec-B for a while and just ordered one for my 1Dsii. I like using my old smc a 50 f1.4 on it and would like to have better focus and turn the darn af confirm off. I may pick up a couple Takumars if it works out.
01-13-2012, 08:43 PM   #36
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QuoteOriginally posted by dlacouture Quote
Groucho, you should really try a EE-S screen...
I finally did. I just finished grinding down and fitting an EC-S screen to my K-5. It went pretty smoothly, all in all. Having my unused Jinfinance screen made it fairly easy to mark the screen. I covered both sides of both screens with some plastic screen protector stuff that came with one of my cameras then marked on that with a sharpie. I used my Craftsman rotary tool (a Dremel clone) with a cutting blade to get the big parts cut off, then a sanding drum to get it closer, finishing off with some 150 grit sandpaper to clean the edges. I intentionally erred on the side of making it too big, and hard to trim it back many times to get it to the right size. After my first attempt at installing it, the metal frame popped out, which actually made it easier to get the size correct.

It's in there now and is awfully damn good, although the focus point indication on the screen is just slightly crooked, and I will need to put in a very, very slight shim - at F1.2, the focus appears a couple millimeters off. That's a project for tomorrow! It's obvious immediately that this should dramatically increase the number of manual-focus keepers! This is even with wearing glasses; I'm sure it'll be that much better with contact lenses.

I didn't put on a real slow lens (slowest was a 35mm F3.5), but I did stop down a couple M42 lenses, and I didn't find the dimness to be an issue.
01-13-2012, 09:48 PM   #37
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Having tried both the Ec-A and Ee-S, I prefer the Ee-s.

The Ec-A is fantastic for focusing, in fact the microprism dot in the center is so accurate that I got in the habit of always focusing there and recomposing later. While this would be fine for studio work, I found that chasing tough subjects (my 3 yr old) led me to skip the recomposing part by necesity. Long story short, the focusing aid detrimented my composition ability. Furthermore, I found spot metering got a bit off if I used lenses above f/2.8.

The Ee-s is fantastic for focusing, but not as precise as the microprism on the Ec-A. Generally I can determine focus down to f/1.8, whereas the Ec-A spot might have got me f/1.6. The nice thing is that now I can focus anywhere in the field of view without my perfectionist brain twitching. I've noticed more keepers due to composing and focusing in the same step.

If I was doing studio work, I would have kept the Ec-A, but for moving targets, the only way to get the right side of my brain to work correctly was to remove the cool microprism that the left side of my brain insisted on latching onto.

Just my 2c, I'm sure others don't necessarily have the same brain blocks I do, in which case enjoy that cool microprism!
01-24-2012, 06:14 PM - 1 Like   #38
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Hi All and g'day,

First off - Thanks to felib, for starting this thread and to all others for their information.

I have been needing a more accurate focusing screen for my M28/2 and 50-135/2.8 etc. With the stock screen, focusing the M28/2 accurately was simply not possible.

I chose the EC-A because of the micro prism centre, mostly because I remember being amazed by my fathers 35mm focus screen with micro prisms (I'm showing my youthfulness here) when I was a child.

Over xmas, I received my EC-A screen. I used the sticky tape trick and cut it down. Usually I'm very clinical with this stuff, but it was Xmas and I was havin fun, bein lazy, and drinkin Gin. The screen ended up not being exactly square, though it was centred if slightly rotated from vertical. It has scratches, finger marks, I can see the sticky tape used for shimming on the edge of the frame, but wow, now I can focus accurately.

I shoot live performances and require manual focus as the AF system doesn't work at dim light levels. With the EC-A the plane of focus is very visible. In some instances it is easier to see on the matte section, in others the prisms work best. It still can be difficult to see in very dim light, but using the prisms and the edge of a body/face, or a pattern on clothes I still manage to get 70-80 percent of images in focus.

I still may try the EE-S one day, if I feel that the prisms are obscuring my composition. For the moment I'm liking the EC-A, the immediacy and more tactile experience it provides compared to the stock screen - scratches, fingerprints, sticky tape and all.

01-25-2012, 07:11 AM   #39
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Got a couple of questions about the Ec-A screen...

I have a K-x with a Katzeye Optibrite split screen which works very well, even with my 3M-5CA 500mm f8 mirror lens. (No blackout, believe it or not!) Since I shoot with this lens a lot, it's important for whatever screen I have to work well with it.

Does the Ec-A suffer from blackout with slow lenses? And how distinctly and quickly does the subject pop into focus with it? With the Katzeye, it gradually comes into focus, so you have to kind of feel out the center of the zone, so to speak. That's my only criticism of the Katzeye. My Chinese screen is blurry... blurry.. blurry... WHAM! In focus. I like that. But the Chinese screen has split prism blackout at f8.

So I want a screen which works well with an f8 mirror lens & everything else, including an f1.4 50mm lens. Could the Ec-A be it?

Cheers,
Bobbo :-)
02-22-2012, 01:46 AM   #40
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QuoteOriginally posted by GibbyTheMole Quote
My Chinese screen is blurry... blurry.. blurry... WHAM! In focus. I like that.
Which screen is that?
04-18-2012, 04:23 AM   #41
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Bobbo, sorry about the very delayed response, bus yes the EC-a will black out quite alot at f8. If you are shooting in daylight it may not be an issue.
04-18-2012, 05:06 AM   #42
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QuoteOriginally posted by Giklab Quote
Which screen is that?
Sorry it took so long to respond: It's just a generic Chinese screen from eBay. It was around $20.

QuoteOriginally posted by Turtle Quote
yes the EC-a will black out quite alot at f8. If you are shooting in daylight it may not be an issue.
Thanks much for the info.

Cheers,
Bobbo :-)
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