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01-07-2008, 04:44 PM   #16
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Why, you don't need both of them, do you? Fast lenses with any really reach are going to be expensive. I don't think there is anyway around it.

01-07-2008, 05:56 PM   #17
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This might help because my question was nearly the same at the begining of the season, hope this helps. I'm still looking for "that" lens though.

Originally Posted by sluggo913
Hello I was reading the posts on apature and came across your shots, very nice. I bought my K10D to shoot my son and his hockey team and my daughter and her basketball team. What are you using for a lens that has a f2.8 I'm using a sigma f4-6 70-300 and it is ok but I would like to get some more light in the shots right now I'm shooting at Tv with a max iso of 1600 on auto, aprox. 350 shutter speed and ev of plus 2 the pictures are still a bit dark and two that were shot at the dark end of the rink were noisey. Any recomendations or suggestions are welcome and appreciated.


Hi Bob,

Glad to help, of course. Your Sigma is much like my other hockey lens, my FA80-320. It's max aperture though is only F4.5 at the 80 end and F5.6 at the 320 end (which I practically never use anyhow).

Personally, I think your set-up looks okay, but for the shutter speed. Even at F4, and ISO 1600, that's too high to allow for adequate light to get through. The noise is inevitable no matter what, but if you can get your shutter speed down to 1/180th or even 1/125, you'll notice that the light and sharpness will go up and the noise will therefore be less obvious.

In post processing, I first use a product called NOISEWARE. This takes out much of the noise and smoothes the images noticeably. In Photoshop I then crop, resize, auto levels, and finally sharpen before saving as an "end" product.

As for my FA135 F2.8 question, well with that lens, I can get my shutter speed up to 1/250th, sometimes 1/350th but it depends which rink I am in. The biggest thing I find with that particular setup is the shallowness at 2.8 means it has the auto focus has to be exact or it'll miss. Therefore, I generally set up at F4 and 1/180th instead.

Hope this helps some,

01-08-2008, 01:09 AM   #18
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The underexposure may just be a result of the amount of white on the rink. Most light meters (in older cameras anyways, newer cameras are still abit of a mystery to me) make the assumption that the reflectance of all objects is roughly 18% and everything is medium grey so as a result they figure that anything white overexposed and as a result the image should be darkened. Of course white objects will reflect more than 18% of the light shone on them so the meter reads this much light as overexposure and thus undexposes the image. Dialing in some exposure compensation may help but if you shoot raw and lighten in post-processing you can use fast shutter speeds with your lens and get proper pictures. It may be best to just shoot in manual mode and process them so they look correct.
01-08-2008, 04:44 AM   #19
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Thanks again!


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