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03-18-2012, 09:33 AM   #16
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Choice of aperture and shutter speed should be driven by artistic concerns: what the picture is about. If you don't know what the picture is about, you can use Program mode. Then the camera will adjust the settings according to technical concerns rather than artistic ones.

(This is the classic bigotted photographer stance. Real photographers are rarely that extreme, but its a simple starting point.)

03-18-2012, 03:53 PM   #17
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Me, I am in Av about 50% of the time, then the rest I shoot in TAv or M. I will sprinkle in some Shutter priority when I want to stop quick motion or invoke motion, but its kinda rare for me. I cannot remember ever using P. I just never think about using it, but it can come in handy I guess for the just in case moments.
03-19-2012, 09:51 AM   #18
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I already mentioned how I use P and M modes. Here are my impressions of where each mode is best on my K20D:

* User: My PJ mode -- Keep my usual action settings, but with drive= Continuous (Lo) 2.3 fps
* Green: For handing the cam to a n00b; or go to M, meter the subject, and hand-off for the shot
* P: My usual default for knockabout shooting; the portal to Tv and Av by spinning the e-dials
* Sv: Yes, it's for ISO control whilst letting the camera handle A+T; but I never choose to use it
* Tv: For shooting action, to stop (or enhance) motion blur, when DOF and ISO don't matter
* Av: The default for non-PKA lenses; it's for DOF control with all lenses; a necessary appendix
* TAv: For action where DOF matters but ISO doesn't; and to quick-switch to M with PKM lenses
* M: To stop-down PMM lenses; accurate exposure and metering in non-matrix modes for all lenses
* B: For those l-o-n-g exposures, of course; besides tripodding, it produces weird effects handheld
* X: For flash, yes; and a kind of idiot M mode, with just one speed and all else needs intervention

Here's an exercise in manual control: shoot only in X mode for a week. The shutter is fixed at 1/180 second. You must make the exposure work by manually setting aperture and ISO for each shot -- no automation to help you, not even TTL metering. One advantage: PKM lenses will auto-stop-down for the exposure. But there's a lot of trial-and-error and chimping until you learn to judge light. This is a step back to earlier days of photography. Are you brave enough?
03-19-2012, 09:51 AM   #19
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I already mentioned how I use P and M modes. Here are my impressions of where each mode is best on my K20D:

* User: My PJ mode -- Keep my usual action settings, but with drive= Continuous (Lo) 2.3 fps
* Green: For handing the cam to a n00b; or go to M, meter the subject, and hand-off for the shot
* P: My usual default for knockabout shooting; the portal to Tv and Av by spinning the e-dials
* Sv: Yes, it's for ISO control whilst letting the camera handle A+T; but I never choose to use it
* Tv: For shooting action, to stop (or enhance) motion blur, when DOF and ISO don't matter
* Av: The default for non-PKA lenses; it's for DOF control with all lenses; a necessary appendix
* TAv: For action where DOF matters but ISO doesn't; and to quick-switch to M with PKM lenses
* M: To stop-down PKM lenses; accurate exposure and metering in non-matrix modes for all lenses
* B: For those l-o-n-g exposures, of course; besides tripodding, it produces weird effects handheld
* X: For flash, yes; and a kind of idiot M mode, with just one speed and all else needs intervention
_________________________________

Here's an exercise in manual control: shoot only in X mode for a week. The shutter is fixed at 1/180 second. You must make the exposure work by manually setting aperture and ISO for each shot, maybe using filters also -- no automation to help you, not even TTL metering (*). One advantage: PKM lenses will auto-stop-down for the exposure. But there's a lot of trial-and-error and chimping until you learn to judge light. This is a step back to earlier days of photography. Are you brave enough?

X-tra credit: Try the X-mode X-ercise with a fixed-aperture lens, like a projector or copy lens, or a camera lens with a stuck aperture. Have fun!

(*) Correction: Non-A-type lenses have no TTL metering in X-mode. A-type and AF lenses will show the light-meter-bar in the VF, so you can use it as a sort of match-needle metering system. But nothing happens automatically. Nothing.


Last edited by RioRico; 03-19-2012 at 04:38 PM.
03-19-2012, 10:19 AM   #20
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The TAv mode is a godsend with the K-5, where you can get away with shooting at ISO 3200 and still get good results.
03-19-2012, 04:27 PM   #21
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When I have an "A" or "AF" lens on my camera body, I always carry my camera set to P or (with long lenses and/or low lights) to Tav mode - - -

- - - which is not the same as that I always use my camera in those modes. But as westmill says, this increases chances for getting reasonable shots of opportunity. If time is not of essence, then one can always try out one's "artistic ambitions".
03-20-2012, 09:24 AM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by RioRico Quote
* P: My usual default for knockabout shooting; the portal to Tv and Av by spinning the e-dials
It is my default as well, but I have the front e-dial set to program shift, and the rear to exposure compensation.
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