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04-04-2012, 12:28 PM   #31
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Westmill, looks like flash is set to default settings.
Luftfluss, since they shutter speed was so slow, I can understand the motion blur. The pics I posted were untouched except for resizing. I am shooting in jpeg mode so that may be part of my problem. I used to shoot the ist-dl in raw and convert as necessary, so maybe I should go back to the raw setting. Since I'm using 16Gb SD cards, I can still fit a lot of images on one card.

04-04-2012, 12:33 PM   #32
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No need to shoot raw ( although better of course ) its just as easy to sharpen JPGs too. as Lufftfluss has demonstrated. Also in camera of course. Raise sharpening a few notches.
04-04-2012, 12:34 PM   #33
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What is the difference between my 18-55 DA L and my 18-55 DA lenses? Is one any better than the other? They both appear to be the same speed, so what does the "L" represent?
Thanks.
04-04-2012, 12:44 PM   #34
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you should prob find them on here. im not very familiar with Pentas lens jargon.
http://www.photozone.de/pentax

04-04-2012, 12:59 PM   #35
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QuoteOriginally posted by jselph Quote
What is the difference between my 18-55 DA L and my 18-55 DA lenses? Is one any better than the other? They both appear to be the same speed, so what does the "L" represent?
Thanks.
The DA 18-55 was the first version of the lens. It was replaced by the DA II in 2008 which has improved resolution. The DA L is a budget model of the DA II. It has a plastic lens mount and lacks quick shift focusing, but it has the same optics.
04-16-2012, 11:16 AM   #36
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luftfluss, what application did you use for the sharpening? It looks like my old Photodelux won't work with Win 7, so I guess I have to update my PP software. Looking for suggestions......
Thanks,
John
04-16-2012, 11:31 AM   #37
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I'm with the "you shot too slow a shutter speed for no SR camp for the second 2", the first looks like missed focus as well (it looks like it picked the white wall as a focus point) As well since you used flash on that one you could have shot at both a lower iso and a higher shutter speed. on a kx use spot af and focus and recompose while holdingthe focus

the second 2 both look like motion
# 2 FL was 47.5mm so shutter speed should have been a minimum of 1/100 sec not 1/20, so better to use flash lower the ISO and use slow sync
Same holds for #3 though 1/60 second would have been sufficient.
Or use the SR and make sure the little hand symbol has confirmed before releasing the shutter.
hand held 1/20 second no SR is very hit and miss without using a DA14 or wider
04-16-2012, 12:01 PM   #38
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Eddie, thanks for the input. I noticed that the mode for pics 2 and 3 show Portrait mode. I had the camera set to auto for the first shot, but I find the Mode dial moves very easily and I probably bumped it to Portrait without realizing. The pics are good enough for documenting the event, but I need to experiment more with the camera before I can be really satisfied with my results. I like the camera and I know it's capable of good images, so I'm sure the problem lies with me. We say in the computer field, PIBCAK (Problem is between chair and keyboard), and in this case - PIBC - Problem is behind camera! ;^)

04-16-2012, 12:40 PM   #39
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I don't know if it's been recommended before but you should get this book

Understanding Exposure: How to Shoot Great Photographs with a Film Or Digital Camera: Amazon.ca: Bryan Peterson: Books

I would get off all the auto modes and only use the TV or AV or M mode and get to know what different settings will do for you. while the kx works well at pretty high iso's any camera gives sharper more detailed less noisy results with lower iso. So understanding how the 3 things interact and then how to get what you want from them will let you optimize your shots. It takes time and practice. When I was in the electronics industry question one was did you RTFM lol, in this case this book is far more useful I recommend it to newer shooters all the time
04-16-2012, 01:00 PM   #40
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I did a lot of manual stuff with my old film equipment and had pretty good results with my old ist-dl. As my eyes got worse, and I had to start wearing glasses, I began to rely more on the automated features of cameras, even up to my ME and SF1. I guess I just need to dig back in my library and reaquaint myself with the manual techniques, and start learning the manual aspects of this camera. Then I can find a good automatic setting for those "grab" shots when I don't have time to think. I was brought up understanding that F8, 1/125th was a good starting point in normal daylight with ASA 200/400 film, so I'll set up the kx as such, and begin to experiment. I'm sure this "old dog" can still learn some new tricks though.....
Thanks,
John

Just ordered the exposure book you recommended. Guess it's not a bad idea to add some updated items to my library.

Last edited by jselph; 04-16-2012 at 01:39 PM.
04-17-2012, 05:04 AM   #41
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f8 and be there will solve a lot of daytime stuff (aside from focus issues) . It never hurts to go back and revisit the basics in any case
04-17-2012, 09:19 AM   #42
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Auto mode can get it wrong. If you don't want to think too much during the shoot of events, P is a far better mode. I don't have a K-x, but I understand that in P-mode it's still possible to adjust shutter speed or aperture; not sure if the other variable changes accordingly. Check page 94/95 of the (English) manual and play with the options.

I usually use Av and keep an eye on the shutter speed. If I see that it goes wrong (to slow), I change the aperture or crank up the ISO.
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