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03-26-2012, 12:03 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by kcobain1992 Quote
Regarding the Ee-S, I really don't know if I would regret buying it, as it has no focusing aid.
Well, that's not true, as the whole Ee-S screen is a focusing aid in itself! It's the only screen I know of being able to resolve f/1.6 DoF, where others are limited to f/2.4 (approx.)...

Having tried my share of splits, I can tell you I've got way better rates using the EE-S than any other screens I ever had.

03-26-2012, 03:15 PM   #17
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Quote from BH's website:
"the Ee-S Super Precision focusing screen is designed to facilitate manual focusing with high-speed lenses (f/2.8 or faster). The Ee-S screen has finer microlenses than the Ee-A or Ee-D options, along with a steeper parabola of focus to make the image pop in and out of focus more vividly in the viewfinder; however, the Ee-S focusing screen is not recommended for slower lenses because it's not very bright."
03-26-2012, 06:41 PM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by kcobain1992 Quote
I am about to purchase a 3rd party screen for my M42 converted K-x, and based on the two topics in this forum, I have to decide between the Canon Ec-A and the Ee-S. I would prefer the Ec-A myself, but I am curious whether I would actually like the Ee-S more. My current lenses have an aperture range from f/1.4 to f/4. What is your experience using these screens with slow lenses?
Like you, I was concerned about the experience of these focusing screens with slower lenses, so I never tried them out. Instead, I went with the magnifier loupe and did pretty well.

But without doubt, the best manual focusing aid that you can get is the peak focusing function of a mirrorless camera. You might just want to look at that instead of a focusing screen. Another advantage of MILC is that they don't have to dim the viewfinder when you manually stop down - you can still see the correct exposure and you can focus without any trouble. These cameras make use of MF lenses really easy.
03-27-2012, 03:21 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by kcobain1992 Quote
My current lenses have an aperture range from f/1.4 to f/4. What is your experience using these screens with slow lenses?
I have the S-type screen (as adapted and sold by Huge improvement for manual focus with fast lenses. The one time I tried using an f/3.5 lens in quite dim indoor light I had to change lenses, it was just too dark. I can't say what the stock screen would have looked like under the same conditions. The S-type screen has been fine otherwise, including with an f/5.6 lens in dusk/dawn lighting.

QuoteOriginally posted by kcobain1992 Quote
What happens if I cannot achieve perfect focus with the ones supplied?
Before buying the new screen, I had already been through shim adjustments with the stock screen. The S-type screen required about the same extra shimming, and one of the shims supplied by was the right thickness. (I had been using strips of Post-It notes before.) This is for my K10D; I don't know if they send out different shims for different cameras.

03-27-2012, 03:46 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by lammie200 Quote
There is a video on another recent thread that someone made while installing a screen on their K-r. Check it out if you haven't already. One thing about that video though is that the guy that made it first assumed that every bit of the instructions would apply, i.e., using the supplied tool, needing shims, etc. In reality not every bit of the instructions will apply, and even so, some parts of the instructions may be a little difficult to understand. Take your time and do a couple of dry runs first. If you have done anything remotely similar, i.e. small motor skill oriented, it will be relatively easy.
Here is the link the that thread.

There has also been some good discussion around some of my steps as mentioned by Lammie. At one point I touched the screen without using one of the supplied finger cots (that was a mistake). I attempted to follow the instructions exactly as presented by I've since removed and reinstalled it a number of times without following those instructions.

My video also didn't show the installation of the shims (since I thought I would try without any first). In the end, though, I needed 3 of the supplied shims. Installing theses was a feat in itself...

The end of the video does a comparison of the brightness for various apertures. I haven't had a problem with apertures greater than f/8 (although it is darker at f/8 as shown in the video).

03-27-2012, 01:53 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by kcobain1992 Quote
I am not concerned that any of these can provide accurate focus at large apertures, but actually that they may be too dim for me to focus my Industar 50mm f/3.5, Jupiter 135mm f/3.5 and Takumar 200mm f/4. So my question really is which one of these is better in this regard. Sorry for not explaining more clearly.
I was using the Takumar 200/5.6 on tubes yesterday and could easily focus on the wee antennae of a 6mm fly.
(Ee-s screen and Tenpa 1.36x) This was in good lighting though.
03-27-2012, 04:11 PM   #22
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Well, I am still reluctant to choosing the Ee-S over the Ec-A. I guess it's all about what you're accustomed to. Some may be used to the plain, matte stock screen with AF brackets, some may prefer the old-style microprism, some the split-screen. I would like some feedback about the Ec-A too, just to compare them, especially regarding brightness. BTW, ablundon, thanks for the video, it's a great way of comparing screens so you know what to choose. My girlfriend's Nikon K3 screen doesn't go that dark at f/11, with the same lens almost, M 50/1.7.
04-09-2012, 07:19 AM   #23
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I have decided in favor of the Ec-A microprism screen. I will order it tomorrow.


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