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12-07-2012, 05:12 PM   #61
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QuoteOriginally posted by Ron Boggs Quote
I've found shake reduction to work to stop slight wind motion of plants during macro or near macro circumstances, even on a tripod. Perhaps I've just been kidding myself, but a wiggly leaf from slight wind looks pretty similar to the sensor to my own wiggly hands. I noticed this in early bodies too since I shoot quite a bit of macro stuff. Either shake reduction works for slight macro wiggle when shooting from a tripod or I've just gotten considerably better at timing my shots between wind shakes? I suspect the former.
You've been kidding yourself . Pentax shake reduction uses angular velocity sensors to detect camera motion and shifts the sensor back and forth or up and down to compensate.

12-08-2012, 04:50 PM   #62
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QuoteOriginally posted by cfraz Quote
You've been kidding yourself . Pentax shake reduction uses angular velocity sensors to detect camera motion and shifts the sensor back and forth or up and down to compensate.
Exactly! It simulates a stable camera by adjusting the sensor position. In 99 % of cases 'Image stabilization' is a misnomer. There are a few cameras with true image stabilization and if you've used it to your advantage you will understand.

In my old Olympus E-100rs I could get good results shooting moving cars down to about 1/80 of a second. (This gave some very interesting effects.) With other cameras I had to turn the IS or SR off and in that configuration it is tough to get results below 1/320 sec. Unfortunately there were no cameras that updated the Olympus E-100rs and it's 1.5 meg sensor was not enough any longer. So now I shoot Pentax.
12-09-2012, 07:37 AM   #63
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QuoteOriginally posted by Sloglass Quote
In my old Olympus E-100rs I could get good results shooting moving cars down to about 1/80 of a second. (This gave some very interesting effects.) With other cameras I had to turn the IS or SR off and in that configuration it is tough to get results below 1/320 sec. Unfortunately there were no cameras that updated the Olympus E-100rs and it's 1.5 meg sensor was not enough any longer. So now I shoot Pentax.
Your 1.5mp camera would look bad blown up to 16mp. As resolution goes up, so do the demands on the lens and technique. You can't compare pixel level crops at 1.5mp and 16mp, you need to compare at the same resolution.
12-10-2012, 03:20 PM   #64
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QuoteOriginally posted by farhagh Quote
Not that often. Because Pentax removed the switch, and it takes too much time to do it in menu with a big chance to forget it there, while the dedicated switch is in front of you all the time. I hope they return it back in next models.
Hear, hear! I miss the dedicated switch on the K10 and also being able to carry the IR remote in the grip! Having to drill down through menus is a PITA.

But that's about all I miss about the K10 as compared to the K5.

BTW, does anyone know why Pentax and others couldn't have used the traditional cable release socket in DSLRs? My 645n has the mechanical release, as the photo gods intended, and an electronic release. Makes sense to me....

12-12-2012, 05:38 PM   #65
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I haven't done any definitive tests yet, but I seem to be getting better results in low light with the SR turned off. This is based only on my "chimping" the photos on the camera screen after taking them. Let me explain. I do a lot of low-light photography, often at something like 1/60 sec at f2.0. I will take a series in very quick succession usually using low speed continuous shooting. I do not check for the SR indicator in the viewfinder; I would probably miss pictures if I did (besides, I am concentrating on the subject, not the camera settings). I could be working in either single (AF.S) or continuous (AF.C) auto focus.

Some questions:
1. Does the SR indicator come on faster in bright light than in dim light?
2. If using AF.S, does the camera hold focus for the following shots in a series?
3. If using AF.C, does the camera hold focus for the following shots in a series? In this case, I wouldn't expect it to.
4. Is there anything else here that I am missing in respect to SR being on?

I do a lot of nightclub flamenco photography. Up to now I have put my focusing problems down to the earlier K-5 dim-light focusing issues. My recent experience with SR off (family pictures in dim light) is making me wonder. Until I get to a flamenco show I won't know for sure, maybe in the next week or so.

PS. If I am right on this, the dedicated switch would be a great help.
12-12-2012, 05:51 PM   #66
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QuoteOriginally posted by cpk Quote
I haven't done any definitive tests yet, but I seem to be getting better results in low light with the SR turned off.
This is my regular use/non scientific finding as well - my understanding is that the SR needs to settle in before it's working optimally. If you raise the camera from hip to the eye, compose and press shutter release button, all a bit too fast then chances are, you'd get SR related blur. If you do it too fast then you'd get a lot blur even though the camera is kept completely motionless.

I used to get this on my K-x more often until I noticed pre-exposure movements played a large role in how blurry my shots would appear. I tried to work on it and improved my habits. The fun part was when I later changed to K-30. I was still photographing as if I had K-x and pretty much all photos were tack sharp. I was pleasantly surprised by this and it of cause bottles down to the SR on K-30 being better. However, now I'm getting the shake blurs again, and it's probably because I've become used to the K-30's abilities and once again am pushing it too far :P
12-12-2012, 07:16 PM   #67
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QuoteOriginally posted by cpk Quote
1. Does the SR indicator come on faster in bright light than in dim light?.
No, you can have the lens cap on and it will work the same -- it is detecting camera motion, not light. If you feel it is working less well in low light, it is probably working "less well" all the time, just it is affecting your low-light pictures the most because they have the slow shutter speeds that need it. You are probably not letting it settle in by moving too quickly, or the shutter speed/focal length combo is still beyond the point where the SR is sufficient to get you shake-free images.
12-12-2012, 07:24 PM   #68
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I use CF&R, center point only. By the time I push the shutter release, SR is ready. Pulling the camera up to your eye and firing immediately is a problem for SR but is also likely causing you to miss focus. There's not much room for DOF/focal point error at f2.


Last edited by audiobomber; 12-12-2012 at 07:52 PM.
12-13-2012, 08:28 AM   #69
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QuoteOriginally posted by cpk Quote
4. Is there anything else here that I am missing in respect to SR being on?
The most important thing is to hold the camera still for at least 0.7 seconds before fully pressing the shutter.
Thus SR is not for action photography where you have to pan or quickly move the camera around and suddenly shoot. In those circumstances it is better to turn SR off.
12-13-2012, 08:58 AM   #70
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QuoteOriginally posted by Gimbal Quote
The most important thing is to hold the camera still for at least 0.7 seconds before fully pressing the shutter.
Thus SR is not for action photography where you have to pan or quickly move the camera around and suddenly shoot. In those circumstances it is better to turn SR off.
This Pentax ad recommends SR with panning:
Airshow challenge with the Pentax K20D

I've never turned SR off for panning.
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