Iphone PICs are better than my K10D w/ SIgma 17-70mm

vmaniqui · 06-25-2012, 04:19 PM

hi all,

my daughter told me that the pics i took with her iphone is way better than from my K10D with a Sigma 17-70mm. i have an old K100D and for some reason the pics from that camera with my old trusted 18-55mm kit lens are way better than the pics i took with my K10D. is there something i am missing ? is there something i need to adjust on my K10D ? on my Sigma 17-70mm ? appreciate the advise.

thanks again,
vic

liukaitc · 06-25-2012, 04:26 PM

maybe front/back focus issue
you need to show pic to us

JinDesu · 06-25-2012, 04:29 PM

Should really show us some pictures, because I've gotten some amazing pictures with the Sigma on my k-x.

wasser · 06-25-2012, 04:31 PM

Take a picture of the same subject, matching everything as best you can. Make sure the exif data is intact and post the 3 images here.

Medium FormatPro · 06-25-2012, 04:41 PM

Now that is one impressive Viper pic.

Strangely enough some of the first Viper models did not have locking doors - even as an option. Also they did not have real door window glass. The removable top one also had issues with the top coming off at about 90mph.

vmaniqui · 06-25-2012, 05:45 PM

here are some pics. first 2 from my iphone. next 3 from k10D with sigma 17-70mm @ 17mm, 35mm and 70mm.

PS. these are all taken with Auto Mode.

thanks,
vic

ducdao · 06-25-2012, 05:53 PM

The pictures from your K10D are way under exposed. At least one stop. Also, the K10D is not what is best for low light shooting.

Try this, if you shoot AV mode, try to put exposure compensation to be +1, bump the iso from 400 to 560 if you can.

vmaniqui · 06-25-2012, 06:16 PM

Originally posted by liukaitc

maybe front/back focus issue
you need to show pic to us

i checked it and so far no issues with front/back focus.

SpecialK · 06-25-2012, 06:19 PM

Most of the central subject is white, which likely caused the (correct) underexposure. You need to overexpose big white subjects and underexpose big black subjects about 1 stop, as mentioned.

aleonx3 · 06-25-2012, 06:36 PM

you cannot compare it this way since the composition of the picture is completely different. As far as the focus is concerned, your k10D is more correct, but your iphone is exhibiting some back focusing issue (although since you allow both camera's to auto-select the focus, it may not be BF issue, just miss the focus point of the white rose). It appears that you may have set the k10D to spot metering, if you set it to multi-segment and set AE regardless focus point, you may have your picture a little more brighter and closer to the iphone picture. All-in-all, using auto-mode to compare photos is not an accurate test and it is often depending on what you want to achieve.

vmaniqui · 06-25-2012, 06:41 PM

Originally posted by aleonx3

you cannot compare it this way since the composition of the picture is completely different. As far as the focus is concerned, your k10D is more correct, but your iphone is exhibiting some back focusing issue (although since you allow both camera's to auto-select the focus, it may not be BF issue, just miss the focus point of the white rose). It appears that you may have set the k10D to spot metering, if you set it to multi-segment and set AE regardless focus point, you may have your picture a little more brighter and closer to the iphone picture. All-in-all, using auto-mode to compare photos is not an accurate test and it is often depending on what you want to achieve.

thanks for the advise. you're absolutely right in the sense that i set it to spot metering. i will try multi segment and see how it goes. it's just that for an event like family party, i tend to use Auto mode as i am too lazy to check and recheck the variables. should i do AFS or AFC ? when i use AFC the lens tend to hunt a lot. thanks again.

**luftfluss** · 06-25-2012, 06:45 PM

Looking at the exif, you are spot-metering. And since you are spot-metering on a white rose, the camera will look to make the rose gray, which in turn makes everything else under-exposed.

aleonx3 · 06-25-2012, 07:17 PM

Originally posted by vmaniqui

thanks for the advise. you're absolutely right in the sense that i set it to spot metering. i will try multi segment and see how it goes. it's just that for an event like family party, i tend to use Auto mode as i am too lazy to check and recheck the variables. should i do AFS or AFC ? when i use AFC the lens tend to hunt a lot. thanks again.

If you are not familiar with the camera functions, spot metering can make or ruin your picture very easily.... BUT if you know how to use it, spot metering is your friend indeed for creativity. For example, just like shooting a wedding photo when the bride is in white and the groom in dark suit. If you focus on the bride, the picture will be underexposed, and likewise, if you do that to the groom, the picture will be overexposed. If you know you are shoot a subject (not moving) then, AFS allow you to lock focus and maintain accuracy. If you are shooting people (moving around or impatient with you to lock focus), then use AFC but then I also recommend using continuous mode shooting (shot-gun approach); however, I never find the need to do that often. And I use MF lens a lot and don't find it to be a problem at all (with hunting as other people seem to find - which of course, depends also on the lens you use).

wasser · 06-25-2012, 07:33 PM

Originally posted by vmaniqui

thanks for the advise. you're absolutely right in the sense that i set it to spot metering. i will try multi segment and see how it goes. it's just that for an event like family party, i tend to use Auto mode as i am too lazy to check and recheck the variables. should i do AFS or AFC ? when i use AFC the lens tend to hunt a lot. thanks again.

A DSLR can excel when you learn how to properly use it.

Using non-auto modes doesn't have to be complicated. Try this for basic starters...well, first get to know some basic terms like depth of field, aperture/fstop, shutter speed, etc. Next try using AV mode to control depth of field and TV when you want to control motion (stopping or blurring motion is a function of time).

AFS - "auto focus single" It "doesn't hunt" because it's not supposed to. It focuses to a single point and stops until you tell it to focus again.This mode is most generally useful. You pick something to focus upon.
AFC - "auto focus continuous" It does "hunt" because it's supposed to...well, sorta. As the name implies it continuously focuses. As long as you tell it to focus, it will adjust to focus and the focus will change whenever the distance to the subject changes. This mode can be useful in sports when photographing moving subjects. It makes little sense on a stationary object.

vimeto · 06-26-2012, 05:42 AM - **1 Like**

Super underexposed. My phone takes great pics, but nowhere near the quality of my k10 with the kits lens, or my k5. Btw! Sometimes I choose to shoot with my k10 over my k5 just because some shots need that k10desness that I love. I dont know how to explain that.

06-25-2012, 04:19 PM	#1
vmaniqui Forum Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 68	Iphone PICs are better than my K10D w/ SIgma 17-70mm hi all, my daughter told me that the pics i took with her iphone is way better than from my K10D with a Sigma 17-70mm. i have an old K100D and for some reason the pics from that camera with my old trusted 18-55mm kit lens are way better than the pics i took with my K10D. is there something i am missing ? is there something i need to adjust on my K10D ? on my Sigma 17-70mm ? appreciate the advise. thanks again, vic

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06-25-2012, 04:26 PM	#2
liukaitc Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: New York Photos: Albums Posts: 1,008	maybe front/back focus issue you need to show pic to us

06-25-2012, 04:29 PM	#3
JinDesu Veteran Member Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: New York City Photos: Gallery Posts: 5,638	Should really show us some pictures, because I've gotten some amazing pictures with the Sigma on my k-x.

06-25-2012, 04:31 PM	#4
wasser Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: northern ca Photos: Gallery Posts: 427	Take a picture of the same subject, matching everything as best you can. Make sure the exif data is intact and post the 3 images here.

06-25-2012, 04:41 PM	#5
Medium FormatPro Banned Join Date: Mar 2012 Location: Charleston & Pittsburgh Photos: Albums Posts: 1,668	Now that is one impressive Viper pic. Strangely enough some of the first Viper models did not have locking doors - even as an option. Also they did not have real door window glass. The removable top one also had issues with the top coming off at about 90mph.

06-25-2012, 05:53 PM	#7
ducdao Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: Montreal/Vermont Posts: 2,160	The pictures from your K10D are way under exposed. At least one stop. Also, the K10D is not what is best for low light shooting. Try this, if you shoot AV mode, try to put exposure compensation to be +1, bump the iso from 400 to 560 if you can.

06-25-2012, 06:16 PM	#8
vmaniqui Forum Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 68 Original Poster	Originally posted by liukaitc maybe front/back focus issue you need to show pic to us i checked it and so far no issues with front/back focus.

06-25-2012, 06:19 PM	#9
SpecialK Pentaxian Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: So California Photos: Gallery Posts: 16,480	Most of the central subject is white, which likely caused the (correct) underexposure. You need to overexpose big white subjects and underexpose big black subjects about 1 stop, as mentioned.

06-25-2012, 06:36 PM	#10
aleonx3 Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brampton, Ontario Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,996	you cannot compare it this way since the composition of the picture is completely different. As far as the focus is concerned, your k10D is more correct, but your iphone is exhibiting some back focusing issue (although since you allow both camera's to auto-select the focus, it may not be BF issue, just miss the focus point of the white rose). It appears that you may have set the k10D to spot metering, if you set it to multi-segment and set AE regardless focus point, you may have your picture a little more brighter and closer to the iphone picture. All-in-all, using auto-mode to compare photos is not an accurate test and it is often depending on what you want to achieve.

06-25-2012, 06:41 PM	#11
vmaniqui Forum Member Join Date: Dec 2011 Posts: 68 Original Poster	Originally posted by aleonx3 you cannot compare it this way since the composition of the picture is completely different. As far as the focus is concerned, your k10D is more correct, but your iphone is exhibiting some back focusing issue (although since you allow both camera's to auto-select the focus, it may not be BF issue, just miss the focus point of the white rose). It appears that you may have set the k10D to spot metering, if you set it to multi-segment and set AE regardless focus point, you may have your picture a little more brighter and closer to the iphone picture. All-in-all, using auto-mode to compare photos is not an accurate test and it is often depending on what you want to achieve. thanks for the advise. you're absolutely right in the sense that i set it to spot metering. i will try multi segment and see how it goes. it's just that for an event like family party, i tend to use Auto mode as i am too lazy to check and recheck the variables. should i do AFS or AFC ? when i use AFC the lens tend to hunt a lot. thanks again.

06-25-2012, 06:45 PM	#12
luftfluss Site Supporter Join Date: Jun 2011 Location: NJ Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 11,619	Looking at the exif, you are spot-metering. And since you are spot-metering on a white rose, the camera will look to make the rose gray, which in turn makes everything else under-exposed.

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06-25-2012, 07:17 PM	#13
aleonx3 Veteran Member Join Date: Jul 2007 Location: Brampton, Ontario Photos: Gallery \| Albums Posts: 3,996	Originally posted by vmaniqui thanks for the advise. you're absolutely right in the sense that i set it to spot metering. i will try multi segment and see how it goes. it's just that for an event like family party, i tend to use Auto mode as i am too lazy to check and recheck the variables. should i do AFS or AFC ? when i use AFC the lens tend to hunt a lot. thanks again. If you are not familiar with the camera functions, spot metering can make or ruin your picture very easily.... BUT if you know how to use it, spot metering is your friend indeed for creativity. For example, just like shooting a wedding photo when the bride is in white and the groom in dark suit. If you focus on the bride, the picture will be underexposed, and likewise, if you do that to the groom, the picture will be overexposed. If you know you are shoot a subject (not moving) then, AFS allow you to lock focus and maintain accuracy. If you are shooting people (moving around or impatient with you to lock focus), then use AFC but then I also recommend using continuous mode shooting (shot-gun approach); however, I never find the need to do that often. And I use MF lens a lot and don't find it to be a problem at all (with hunting as other people seem to find - which of course, depends also on the lens you use).

06-25-2012, 07:33 PM	#14
wasser Veteran Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: northern ca Photos: Gallery Posts: 427	Originally posted by vmaniqui thanks for the advise. you're absolutely right in the sense that i set it to spot metering. i will try multi segment and see how it goes. it's just that for an event like family party, i tend to use Auto mode as i am too lazy to check and recheck the variables. should i do AFS or AFC ? when i use AFC the lens tend to hunt a lot. thanks again. A DSLR can excel when you learn how to properly use it. Using non-auto modes doesn't have to be complicated. Try this for basic starters...well, first get to know some basic terms like depth of field, aperture/fstop, shutter speed, etc. Next try using AV mode to control depth of field and TV when you want to control motion (stopping or blurring motion is a function of time). AFS - "auto focus single" It "doesn't hunt" because it's not supposed to. It focuses to a single point and stops until you tell it to focus again.This mode is most generally useful. You pick something to focus upon. AFC - "auto focus continuous" It does "hunt" because it's supposed to...well, sorta. As the name implies it continuously focuses. As long as you tell it to focus, it will adjust to focus and the focus will change whenever the distance to the subject changes. This mode can be useful in sports when photographing moving subjects. It makes little sense on a stationary object.

06-26-2012, 05:42 AM - 1 Like	#15
vimeto Senior Member Join Date: Oct 2011 Location: ct Photos: Gallery Posts: 146	Super underexposed. My phone takes great pics, but nowhere near the quality of my k10 with the kits lens, or my k5. Btw! Sometimes I choose to shoot with my k10 over my k5 just because some shots need that k10desness that I love. I dont know how to explain that.