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01-25-2008, 01:25 PM   #16
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Actually it's much better to try to get the white balance right before taking the picture.

That actually saves post-processing.

Take the K100D off AWB (Auto White Balance) and select the Tungsten White Balance (or whatever is the most appropriate).

To be more accurate one can use true Manual White Balance - in P, Av, Tv or Manual modes - set the K100D for manual white balance and point the K100D at something white so that it fills the frame completely and press the shutter button to set (may have to be in MF mode if the shutter won't release) See pages 119-120 in the K100D manual.
If this is done often, then might want to carry a white card specifically for this (eg: a piece of blank photo print paper).


However there are situations where even manual white balance won't work well -
eg: mixed lighting or changing lighting.
In which case pick the most appropriate pre-set white balance - then work on the photo afterwards.

eg: my photo example above actually was already Tungsten white balanced, but the lighting still shifted toward yellow - there was NO way I could do a manual white balance between shots - so I had to post process.

The AWB on the K100D (and K10D?) are probably the weakest spots on Pentaxes.
They are way too yellow/orange under tungsten lighting -
one can argue - just set tungsten white balance -
the problem is that I would like to use fill-in flash once in a while -
I really have to remember to set the white balance back to AWB
otherewise I'll get a really Blue photo using flash under Tungsten white balance.
My Canon p&s which I use a lot in clubs with and without flash does not have such huge problems with its AWB so I don't need to switch.....

01-25-2008, 01:48 PM   #17
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So . . . See if I have this right . . . TWB is used for artificial light & no flash?
01-25-2008, 02:10 PM   #18
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The color balance can be changed in camera to any picture already taken by using one of the digital filters. Just go into the fn menu during playback and hit < then select color. Make the adjustment with the thumb wheel and save it as a new picture. This is a quick fix for you.
01-25-2008, 02:14 PM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by reoterq Quote
So . . . See if I have this right . . . TWB is used for artificial light & no flash?
Yes, absolutely NO flash -
try it with flash, and you'll know not to do it again

BUT Pentax K100D claims its Tungsten balance is for color temperature of ~2,850K (see page 118 of K100D manual)
somewhat close to avarage room lighting - but I find my results still a bit too yellow -
then there are Tungsten studio/flood/sports/stadium lighting which would very likely be cooler (bluer) than that....
hard to get it just right - so I end up having to do post-processing.

Don't forget also a lot of indoors venues use fluorescent lighting -
select the correct type otherwise photos can end up with horrible casts.

Why Pentax AWB is so poor I don't know -
as the AWB on my Canon p&s (I've used several and a lot) seem to work much better.

See Color Temperature at Wikipedia


Last edited by UnknownVT; 01-25-2008 at 02:36 PM.
01-25-2008, 02:45 PM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by UnknownVT Quote
Why Pentax AWB is so poor I don't know -
as the AWB on my Canon p&s (I've used several and a lot) seem to work much better.

See Color Temperature at Wikipedia
Your P&S is analyzing the image all the time, and has a much wider range for AWB than a DSLR.

Actually AWB just slows the cameras down. you should consider adjusting as close to the condition as you can before you shoot.
01-25-2008, 02:45 PM   #21
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A raw file has all the information from the camera, where a jpeg is compressed by throwing away information that the camera thinks you don't need. Jpeg compression algorithms in cameras are very good, but not perfect. Raw can help fix the times where it wouldn't be perfect.

Exposure and white balance are the two most common areas. Exposure errors in a raw file can be corrected up to (IIRC) 1 full exposure stop in either direction. Jpeg less so because the extra exposure information was discarded. Same with white balance adjustment - more latitude with raw since there's more original information.

There are books out that describe raw files and raw processing. If you want to try it (and I heartily recommend it), just use the Pentax software that came with your camera (update the software to the latest version after you install the CD). That way, you'll have something to play with and see whether or not you like shooting raw.
01-25-2008, 04:34 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
Your P&S is analyzing the image all the time, and has a much wider range for AWB than a DSLR.
I didn't know that.

Could you please explain how and why p&s cameras do that?
I thought one of the big things on digicams is conserving battery power.

I don't use the LCD monitor when taking pics - I use only the optical viewfinder.

QuoteOriginally posted by Lowell Goudge Quote
Actually AWB just slows the cameras down. you should consider adjusting as close to the condition as you can before you shoot.
Again something I did not know.
I guess any processing will take a finite amount of time -
so any adjustment to white balance is going to take some time -
but how much in the overall scheme of things?
Do you have timings between using AWB and any other white balance, please?
01-25-2008, 04:59 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by UnknownVT Quote
I didn't know that.

Could you please explain how and why p&s cameras do that?
I thought one of the big things on digicams is conserving battery power.

I don't use the LCD monitor when taking pics - I use only the optical viewfinder.



Again something I did not know.
I guess any processing will take a finite amount of time -
so any adjustment to white balance is going to take some time -
but how much in the overall scheme of things?
Do you have timings between using AWB and any other white balance, please?
Sorry, never use it. always set manual for the conditions.

01-25-2008, 05:14 PM   #24
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QuoteOriginally posted by reoterq Quote
OK, I found what I need to adjust a JPG in PSP (V.6), but you have me wondering about raw. I have only had the camera for a month and haven't shot in raw. How is it more adjustable and what other benefits do you get out of it?
One benefit of shooting raw is that you can adjust the white balance, exposure, and with some programs sharpness then save as a jpeg. If you start with a jpeg and do all of those actions and save again, you lose some of the image quality during the jpeg compression. However, unless you are really going to make large prints (greater than 8x10) or have to crop a lot, you won't notice the image loss.

Tim
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