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01-27-2008, 11:05 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by pentkon52 Quote
Hi Mikhail, fellow York region guy here.

I found a video on Expert Village, and he used back drop stands, with an umbrella attachment slide on the top. The attachments have a hotshoe on top, and the hole for the umbrella arm. They are adjustable etc, and he seemed to have no problem with the triggers.

I'm going to look into that system when i get a few more pay checks.

Dave
Good to hear!

Well Im not totally sure about the set-up you mention but this video, by David James Originally posted on Strobist 101, shows what Im talking about.

Ofcourse some people may not find it to be a problem at all while others might, personal thing I guess. Also the V2(s) do work fine if you use them ocasionally, but if you put them through a bit of use and often a broken receiver is more or less garunteed.

Thanks

01-27-2008, 11:16 PM   #17
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QuoteOriginally posted by ramzey Quote
How did you make them work with 1/200 on k10d? i can't pass 1/125
At 1/160 1/4th of frame is black.
I cant make them work in any mode over 180

Personally i think its a piece of c*** after todays battle with hot shoe version. I just can't put them any father then 10 ft away from trigger
I'm trowing them away next week

Kemal they will work with AB's, both hot shoe and studio version
I don't know I'm afraid. They just did that out of the box. I used them on my Canon 30d and again once past 1/200th..1/4 of the picture goes black.

prof: No duty at all.
01-28-2008, 07:17 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by Spaceguy1 Quote
I don't know I'm afraid. They just did that out of the box. I used them on my Canon 30d and again once past 1/200th..1/4 of the picture goes black.

prof: No duty at all.
Well isn't the 30D's x-sync speed 1/200th? Any shutter speed faster than that will cause problems as the 30D doesnt have an electronic shutter.

Thanks
01-28-2008, 09:40 AM   #19
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mikhail: if you get the V2s (w/ the hotshoe), you can also tilt the entire thing and rest it on the umbrella shaft. Keep the weight off the V2s trigger and it's fine.

01-28-2008, 10:24 AM   #20
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
mikhail: if you get the V2s (w/ the hotshoe), you can also tilt the entire thing and rest it on the umbrella shaft. Keep the weight off the V2s trigger and it's fine.
Could work but then more of your flash is being clocked by the umbrella shaft than normal which could result in an uneven spread of light coming from your umbrella. And if you tilt the swivel vertically up or down towards 90degrees the trigger will have quite a bit of strain as it will be holding the flash up and a funny angle, or the weight of the flash will be pushing down the the joint.

Thanks
01-28-2008, 11:56 AM   #21
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hadn't thought about the shaft but FWIW, it seems fine in a 46" umbrella...
01-28-2008, 12:27 PM   #22
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mikhail Quote
2 things.

1. Do not get Gadget Infinity V2(s) Triggers (PT-04) or identical ones if you plan to use your flash on a light stand with a umbrella!

2. Do not get Gadget Infinity V2(s) Triggers (PT-04) or identical ones if you plan to use your flash on a light stand with a umbrella!
Mikhail ... nice work.

FWIW, Mikhail is 100% correct in all of this. I speak from experience.

I have the trigger/receiver he says ** not ** to get. I use it for with a 285HV on a light stand with an umbrella. For my other lights, I use optical triggers, but my "key" light is the 285HV and is fired via the trigger.

The receiver does indeed put the flash up too high. The receiver itself has the ability to loosen/tighten at different angles, BUT, you will angle it forward and a lot of weight from your flash will be bearing on that little foot. Not only that, but the flash's foot will also be under more strain. On a 285HV, for example, this is an issue. Some people on eBay seem to be making a nice living on metal replacement feet for the 283/285. Finally, go ahead and fail to tighten the receiver enough and you risk letting your nice flash smash into the light stand when the whole thing gives in to gravity.

The hardware Mikhail advocates make a LOT of sense, and when you do finally move from the "strobist" setup to a more mainline studio setup, those receivers will follow you... no need to reinvest. As for the little hot-shoe adapters he's advocating, they're cheap enough to keep around for backup if one of your studio strobes takes a powder.

If you are just starting out, the hardware outlined in Mikhail's post is really the RIGHT way to do this. Thanks again Mikhail.

FWIW, I can't sync past 160 with the V2 trigger on my K10D. At 200, no flash. At 160, flash every time. Frankly, it matters little. The only reason you might need a faster shutter speed is NOT for exposure (shutter speed does not matter to a great extent), but rather for moving subjects. In some ways this is antithetical to what you are doing. The only place I see it being an issue is with kids. I am probably missing something somewhere though, so don't take my word for it...

woof
01-28-2008, 02:21 PM   #23
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QuoteOriginally posted by woof Quote
The only reason you might need a faster shutter speed is NOT for exposure (shutter speed does not matter to a great extent), but rather for moving subjects.
?
AFAIK, if you want to freeze moving subjects, the important part is flash duration (that's why it's called a strobe flash :-).
Faster shutter speed will keep more of the ambient light out of your controlled flash lit image...

01-28-2008, 03:29 PM   #24
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Good to hear woof!
"Frankly, it matters little..." you are right and you are wrong. Indoors and with studio set ups shutter speed doesnt matter a lot. It does matter in two areas which Kenyee lightly touched on. When shooting outdoors for each stop you can raise your shutter speed by you can open your aperture, meaning your flash can be on a lower power level. This gives your flash more power and can improve recycle times when using normall AA's. Also your AA's will last longer. Secondly a high shutter speed is also useful when shooting fast moving objects. Yes the flash duration will determine if the subject is "frozen" or not, but if your shooting something moving very fast at 1/10 of a shutter speed ambient light is going to creep in and your going to get a slightly blurry effect around your subject. This can be used for effect such as codiac, I believe, has demonstrated on his blog which I highly recommend you read. But say your shooting a football player running straight at you at 1/60sec shutter speed. You use your flash on 1/8 power say to get good recycle times and short flash duration to freeze him. So at the "start" of the 1/60th of a sec the flash freezes the player, but at the end of the 1/60sec there may be enough ambient for your camera to record him\her in that position as well. So your going to have the person frozen in one place, and a few centimeters further forward you will have a blurry very faint version of him\her as well.

Thanks
01-28-2008, 06:08 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by woof Quote
The only reason you might need a faster shutter speed is NOT for exposure (shutter speed does not matter to a great extent), but rather for moving subjects. In some ways this is antithetical to what you are doing. The only place I see it being an issue is with kids. I am probably missing something somewhere though, so don't take my word for it...

woof
really?
How about if you try to shot using studio lights in limited space and keep small DOF under f4? When you cant move your flashes away, power setting is at min. and you dont have ND filters?
01-30-2008, 02:00 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by Mikhail Quote
Good to hear woof!
"Frankly, it matters little..." you are right and you are wrong. Indoors and with studio set ups shutter speed doesnt matter a lot.
Thanks
Thanks... I concede on all points of course.

Sorry guys... I was speaking primarily to the indoor/studio application since we were talking about hardware to be used with umbrellas... The only outdoor scenario I considered was weddings, etc., where you might take umbrellas but could not really see any real difference there.

I wholeheatedly agree that it DOES matter in many other instances, most partic. where motion is concerned. Recycle times are also a valid point that frankly I had not thought about in the past.

In short, I should not have made "light" of shutter speed... heh...

Thanks again guys. I still stand by my main point that Mikhail's 1000% correct on the hardware...

woof
01-30-2008, 03:52 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by woof Quote
Thanks... I concede on all points of course.

Sorry guys... I was speaking primarily to the indoor/studio application since we were talking about hardware to be used with umbrellas... The only outdoor scenario I considered was weddings, etc., where you might take umbrellas but could not really see any real difference there.

I wholeheatedly agree that it DOES matter in many other instances, most partic. where motion is concerned. Recycle times are also a valid point that frankly I had not thought about in the past.

In short, I should not have made "light" of shutter speed... heh...

Thanks again guys. I still stand by my main point that Mikhail's 1000% correct on the hardware...

woof
No worries we all have to learn and thats what forums are about, spreading the knowledge! "ramzey" also mentioned another reason why you'd need high shutter speeds indoors.

And dont think that you should only use umbrellas indoors. Enviromental\outdoor portraits, especially on dull days, could be drastically be improved with an umbrelled strobe.

Thanks
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