[slip]

to me the pics look the same but the k7's has less contrast and saturation (maybe should be made a tad warmer). once you get to know the strengths and weaknesses of the camera, it should do you fine. In photoshop you can make an action to clean up the images if needed to bulk process

good luck with you new toy, but more importantly you have the greatest gift to mankind.... A beautiful baby


thanks

randy

[mcgregni]

In my view its always going to be hard to get any valid comparison when shooting Jpegs from two different camera models. The Jpegs are after all actually default image processings occuring at the time of shooting. So, for example, you choose the Custom Image setting 'Bright' and then theer are a number of default edit parameters automatically applied to the image (a certain amount of contrast, saturation, sharpness etc).

Even if you choose the same preset on both cameras we won't know if they have been set up to give the same results. If you could switch to RAW and then run both shots through a RAW converter (like Adobe Camera RAW in PS or PS ELements) and apply the same adjustments to both, then you should see a more valid comparison once you export into the main program and save the files as a new Jpeg.

[pentaxian233]

OK, I understand about the difference in the colors between the two cameras. What I don't understand is why the k10d was sharper with the same lens. I tried a focus test and here are the results, do I need to adjust the af focus settings on the k7?





I'm beginning to agree that I prefer the look of a CCD sensor to a CMOS and will try to trade the K7 for another K10d.

[ihasa]

Don't be too hasty. Give the k7 a week or two to 'bed in'. I was disappointed at first but soon adapted and came to prefer my k7 to my k200d. But it was not instant!

[Ex Finn.]

OK, I understand about the difference in the colors between the two cameras. What I don't understand is why the k10d was sharper with the same lens. I tried a focus test and here are the results, do I need to adjust the af focus settings on the k7?





I'm beginning to agree that I prefer the look of a CCD sensor to a CMOS and will try to trade the K7 for another K10d.

I had hard time getting used to the spongy CMOS look with the K7, the K100D CCD output was superb. Such is progress I guess. As far as sharpness, this program does a good job for helping the files crisp up. Focus Magic

[HSV]

I don't know how to work the focus charts.

The method I use is to have a B&W print in the wall (with a lot of light) and the camera with a tripod. Focus distance should be somewhere in the mid range. Then I do focus with PDAF (half press with OVF) and then with CDAF (half press with live view). If the AF is perfect, the focus ring should not move when you switch between PDAF and CDAF and viceversa. If it moves, I just put a number in the focus calibration and try again to see if it moves less or more...if it's less, then it's the right direction, if it's more, obviously it would be the wrong direction. Keep doing this until the focus ring doesn't move.

rawr, thanks for the article, it was very informative. Ken Rockwell does have some wacky opinions, like: "modern DSLR's don't need wide aperture lenses because we can always ramp up ISO." Sometimes, I'm surprised to see a pro state this.

Back to the original topic...I also had a big scare when I switched from k20d to k-5, then I finally calmed down after doing the focus calibration.

[benhai]

For the same reason sold K7. I switch back to an old body with samilar CCD sensor that used in K10D. I'm happy now. As to the color, see change the color setting to sRGB instead of Adobe RGB. To me K7 is not easy to use.

[Macario]

Like I wrote before, you might be experiencing shutterblur. What shutterspeed were the charts shot at? If it is again at 1/80th to 125th, try faster or slower speeds.


see also this article
Falk Lumo: LumoLabs: Shutter-induced blur with an SLR camera

[Marc Sabatella]

Looks to me like you might have aimed focus at the right eye, but in the second picture, the hands were close enough to the selected focus point that the focus was there instead. As for color difference, all I see is a minor difference in how they happened to interpret WB in that particular shot. Shoot 100 images and you'll see similar minor variations in all of them, but chances are you'd find you preferred the K10D half the time, K-7 the other half in a blind test.

[joey_kickass]

I started off with a second hand K10D and eventually started using my wife's K7 more often when I had outgrown the K10. I did not initially like the images the K7 produced; they often looked as if the white balance was off. Even after adjusting it, I still am not a fan of how the pictures it produces look. Since then, I have bought a K20 and found that even though the sensors are the same, I like the images that come from it over the K7. The image quality out of the K7 is great, but there's just something I prefer about how the pictures from my K10 and k20 look.

[pentaxian233]

I don't know how to work the focus charts.

The method I use is to have a B&W print in the wall (with a lot of light) and the camera with a tripod. Focus distance should be somewhere in the mid range. Then I do focus with PDAF (half press with OVF) and then with CDAF (half press with live view). If the AF is perfect, the focus ring should not move when you switch between PDAF and CDAF and viceversa. If it moves, I just put a number in the focus calibration and try again to see if it moves less or more...if it's less, then it's the right direction, if it's more, obviously it would be the wrong direction. Keep doing this until the focus ring doesn't move.

rawr, thanks for the article, it was very informative. Ken Rockwell does have some wacky opinions, like: "modern DSLR's don't need wide aperture lenses because we can always ramp up ISO." Sometimes, I'm surprised to see a pro state this.

Back to the original topic...I also had a big scare when I switched from k20d to k-5, then I finally calmed down after doing the focus calibration.

I tried this, the focus ring didn't move at all. The camera doesn't seem to have focus issue. Everything works great its the sensor I'm not liking. Thanks for everyones help on this.

[sbroadbentphoto]

it looks like you have zoomed in on a further away subject with the k7 yet you zoom it to the same size as the k10D. but also, you can't say for sure that the lens focused perfectly or the light was exactly the same for both shots. too many variables in an uncontrolled environment

[interested_observer]

Does a high MP also exaggerate other issues such as focus errors and lens "imperfections"?

I'm asking this because Ken Rockwell states that FF can a make a crappy lens to be in a level equal or above a relatively good crop lens (at least, this is what I understood from one of his articles).

A cropped lens of a full frame body may not work too well since the image circle may not be large enough to cover the FF sensor size.

On the other hand taking a Full Frame lens that may be less than stellar, may be a wonderful performer on a cropped body, since the smaller sensor will only be using/seeing the center part of the lens, which is usually much sharper than the boarders and corners.

[joey_kickass]

I really could care less about what Ken Rockwell has to say anyways. He's definitely a goob.

Where do Babies Come From?

[HSV]

A cropped lens of a full frame body may not work too well since the image circle may not be large enough to cover the FF sensor size.

On the other hand taking a Full Frame lens that may be less than stellar, may be a wonderful performer on a cropped body, since the smaller sensor will only be using/seeing the center part of the lens, which is usually much sharper than the boarders and corners.

I finally found the article: The Full-Frame Advantage

Read it all over again an I can't make much sense out of it, but I doubt anyone with a FF would try to use crappy lenses.