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04-09-2008, 11:04 AM   #16
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Full manual, will work on the hot shoe, won't fry the camera, sync mode works just fine.

Lucky to get such an expensive flash for free...you could sell it on a Nikon forum and get a cheaper flash

04-09-2008, 11:14 AM   #17
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Well its family. And I help them with computers. .
I also can get hold of a Metz 54. I wonder if thats a better option, I believe there is some adapter for those for 100% compability.
04-09-2008, 11:31 AM   #18
and
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I use Nikon SB26's both on and off camera. The great thing about them is the built in slave that has a delay function so it wont be tricked by pttl
04-09-2008, 12:04 PM   #19
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I use SB26

often in auto mode, generally ISO 200, f/5.6, 1/125 sec. Bounce is good at a high angle with the little built-in white reflector pulled out - with or without the diffuser. I think the zoom is generally 20 or 24mm. Very even illumination.

Once set up, I've very rarely had to muck about to get good snapshot-type photos and it recharges very quickly. With a bit of luck, I can get several shots in before it takes more than a second or two to recharge.

(I recently acquired a Metz AF54 MZ-4 but with Nikon adaptor. The Metz adaptor for Pentax P-TTL is the 3702 M2 - the original M version won't support P-TTL. I cannot get Adorama or Bogen Imaging to tell me if/how I can get an older 3702 rechipped or if there's a rudimentary universal adaptor for auto mode. Bogen said I must get cost and availability from a factory-authorized dealer like Adorama. Adorama responded "call manufacturer" with phone number. That was the entire message. Cool. Two voice mail messages for Kevin back at Bogen went unanswered. Any more ideas other than purchasing a new adaptor for ~$90 through, say, B&H?)

In manual with these, of course, anything is possible .... to those with creativity.

My molecule of creativity went missing somewhere around age three.

04-09-2008, 12:29 PM   #20
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SB22s

I also use a Nikon SB22s on my DL. Works great in "auto". Can't beat it for the price ($30 to $50 used these days.) It has 4 power levels of auto, bounce and diffusion.

It's very reliable.
04-09-2008, 12:39 PM   #21
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QuoteOriginally posted by glanglois Quote
(I recently acquired a Metz AF54 MZ-4 but with Nikon adaptor. The Metz adaptor for Pentax P-TTL is the 3702 M2
To further confuse things, IIRC, only later versions of the AF54 are compatible w/ the latest adapter.
Metz tried apparently needs a faster CPU inside the flash to work properly and only the later ones had this.
IIRC, later = latest.

It's been a while since I looked at it. I was thinking about going the Metz way for a while...


ken
04-09-2008, 12:53 PM   #22
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Both adapters are in stock at my regular camerashop here in Sweden.

This is the stock here
Metz SCA3701 Pentax AF 481 kr
Metz SCA3702 Pentax AF 481 kr
Metz SCA3702 Pentax AF M2 485 kr
Metz SCA372 Pentax 325 kr

Im going to check properly on the Metz flash then what extra model numbers etc it got. I was just told it was a Metz 54. So basically I won't be able to control the flash with the camera even if I get an adapter, still only manual. No matter what flash/adapter it is?

Last edited by Zewrak; 04-09-2008 at 12:59 PM.
04-09-2008, 01:26 PM   #23
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*ponder*

So if its a Metz 54 MZ-3 I should stay clear of it? And if it is a MZ-4 I should get it and a new adapter? If its a MZ-3 and I get an old adapter, I will only be able to use it in manual mode?

04-09-2008, 01:59 PM   #24
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I'm a new forum member and I'm sorry if I'm slightly off topic, although it does have something to do with odd flashes.
I bought a K10D a couple of weeks ago and I don't regret it for a second. One of the reasons of buying a Pentax was that my dad used one and since everything is backwards compatible (it's great) I also have a few manual lenses and a AF160SA flash, a relic from the early 90's I guess.
And here's my question. I've used it for a while now but reading about short circuiting cameras with the flash has made me worried. I only thought that there was a very low current between the flash and the camera, I see no reason for the camera nor the flash to send a high current to each other since both have their own power supply.
Am I wrong or should I stop using it right away?
Here's a picture of the flash and a cool thing I made for my flash. It's a diffuser out of normal paper that I cut out and made a mould for in cardboard so I can make several copies since it's paper and gets deformed after a few weeks of usage. It gives perfect lighting for club pictures!

Attachment 10606

Last edited by StarDust; 10-26-2009 at 06:22 AM.
04-09-2008, 02:01 PM   #25
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QuoteOriginally posted by Zewrak Quote
So if its a Metz 54 MZ-3 I should stay clear of it? And if it is a MZ-4 I should get it and a new adapter? If its a MZ-3 and I get an old adapter, I will only be able to use it in manual mode?
IIRC, the new adapter needs the new MZ-4 version. I have no idea what happens if you connect the new adapter to the old MZ-3 though. I just remember Metz telling me that the MZ-4 is required.

If you can find a shop that lets you try before buying, that's your best bet.
This is going from old memories... :-)

ken
04-09-2008, 02:14 PM   #26
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QuoteOriginally posted by kenyee Quote
IIRC, the new adapter needs the new MZ-4 version. I have no idea what happens if you connect the new adapter to the old MZ-3 though. I just remember Metz telling me that the MZ-4 is required.

If you can find a shop that lets you try before buying, that's your best bet.
This is going from old memories... :-)

ken
Unfortunally where I live, trying something in a shop means a 2 day trip . But the old adapter and the MZ-3, how will that work? Will none of the camera settings work on it? It will be all manual? If so, I might aswell go with the Nikon and nevermind an adapter. . Would I gain anything from taking the MZ-3 and an old adapter? Or should I only bother if it is a MZ-4 with a new adapter?
04-09-2008, 10:11 PM   #27
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QuoteOriginally posted by StarDust Quote
... I also have a few manual lenses and a AF160SA flash, a relic from the early 90's I guess.
And here's my question. I've used it for a while now but reading about short circuiting cameras with the flash has made me worried. I only thought that there was a very low current between the flash and the camera, I see no reason for the camera nor the flash to send a high current to each other since both have their own power supply.
Am I wrong or should I stop using it right away?...
The chart shows it to be safe, although I'm not sure what difference the SA makes...

If it hasn't killed the camera by now, it should be fine. You can also test it using a Digital Multi Meter measuring the center contact on the flash.
04-09-2008, 10:12 PM   #28
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QuoteOriginally posted by StarDust Quote
And here's my question. I've used it for a while now but reading about short circuiting cameras with the flash has made me worried. I only thought that there was a very low current between the flash and the camera, I see no reason for the camera nor the flash to send a high current to each other since both have their own power supply.
Am I wrong or should I stop using it right away?
if it hasn't fried it by now, it won't.

Some older flashguns did have high trigger voltages and could fry a cameras electronics. I think old Vivitar 283's were candidates, but someone will know for sure.

Nige.
04-10-2008, 12:46 AM   #29
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I'm one of the new guys here, so first off I'll say HI YA ALL. This is a very nice forum and from what I've read populated with some really fine folks.

I have been an armature photographer for years, using a Nikon 35mm and a Sunpak 622 Pro flash. I just recently purchased a K20-D and the AF-540FGZ flash. So far I'm not real happy with the flash. I probably will be once I become familiar with it.

I tested the 622 with the new K20-D in manual mode and I had good results. Now my question is does anyone make a dedicated cord for the Sunpak 622 and the K20-D? I have a cord for the Nikon that allowed me to use it TTL. I have a flash meter so I can use it manually if need be, but would like the TTL ability.
04-10-2008, 01:17 AM   #30
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All right, thanks for the help! 3.8 V seems to be harmless enough.
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