Originally posted by sbroadbentphoto I am not sure you are right with your interpretation of bit depth is. It seems that you are talking about dynamic range when you say pulling out shadows and shades of grey. They are not the same thing. The bit depth is ONLY supposed to be related to colour and gradation. Either way, when the OP is saying that the colour gradation is not good on the k30, with 12 vs 14 bit, you couldn't tell on a computer screen as screens have a lower bit depth than cameras are capable of. The same for JPEG's.
You will only ever see it when you do major retouching and you have something with the exact same image at the exact same time from 2 different cameras.
You would be unlikely to "just happen to notice the difference" without having the exact same image from another camera with a different bit depth.
I don't have a k-30 so I can't say for sure. I'd love to compare though. We can see a difference between K-x and K-5, and K20D and K-5, so whether or not you can see a difference between K-30 and K5 remains to be determined. I'm not going to prejudge that one. Except to say I'm betting on the K-5. The K20D doesn't do as well as the K-5, so, is it colour depth, or is it the age of the camera? I'm probably not going to buy a k-30 just to find out.
Quote: You will only ever see it when you do major retouching and you have something with the exact same image at the exact same time from 2 different cameras.
If you consider something as simple as boosting a shadow to be major retouching then yes, but if a slight movement of a slider bar isn't major retouching, then no. If your exposure is bang on and there are no contrasty shadows, then yes. If you need to do a little shadow boost or a little highlight recovery, then 14 bit is your friend.
Lets say you have the 16 shades of gray black you get in a jpeg, in 8 bit and you boost a shadow. Say you slide 8 bits from your black range up into the gray range. That leaves you 8 shades of gray to fill 16 bits in the black/grey range and you get banding. If you start with 256 shades of black/gray (12 bit) and shift 240 of them up into the gray area of your gradient, you still have 16 shades of black grey to fill the 16 shades of grey in the 8 bit profile and you don't get banding, producing a much more natural look. In 14 bit you get 1024 shades of black/grey), you can slide 1008 bits to the grey area of the profile and still have a natural looking 8 bit output. The room you have for shadow recovery is significant, 750 more bits to play with in 14 bit depth, and it shows in your PP software and in your finished product.
If you do a lot of sunsets like I do, you rescue shadow and you are going to need this are going to use this, in every shot. Using a K-5 I can underexpose a stop to give me richer colours in the sky, knowing i can pull up 2 stops of shadow detail. But, until someone mails me a free K-30 d I won't be able to compare the two cameras.
If you go to this link and look at the trees on the far shore in the finished version, and compare that to the trees in the above jpeg sunset, I think you'll understand what I'm talking about. Details in the dark areas in one, a mass of blackness in the dark areas of the jpeg, despite the fact my K-5 raw was taken at -1 EV and seriously under-exposed the shadows.
https://www.pentaxforums.com/forums/photographic-technique/208706-sunsets-technique.html