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03-08-2008, 12:23 AM   #16
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QuoteOriginally posted by WMBP Quote
Perfect example of where the owner's manual is pretty unhelpful. Tells you HOW to turn it on, but doesn't say much about why you would want to or what difference it will really make.
Blimmin' heck - nothing's changed from my istDS manual then!

03-11-2008, 11:08 AM   #17
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I just had a flashback to something that was scribbled inside the cover of my high school Latin textbook

Latin is a dead language,
As dead as dead can be,
First it killed the Romans,
And now it's killing me!


Sorry, just having a 30 year flashback.
03-12-2008, 02:54 AM   #18
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I was a little concerned upon first using my K20 that the noise was bothersome beyond what I was used to with the K10. I did some crops tests and figured out I just don't care for the EDR. Nothing great, but they get the point actross -




The images I took these from are also on my flickr site if you care to compare Pentax K20 vs K10 comparisons - a photoset on Flickr

I noted on a front lit brick wall shot (yeah, yeah) that the shadows when in small doses were punchier, but as has been pointed out here, its nothing that can't be done better in editing on a RAW. I'll leave the 'feature' off always personally.
03-12-2008, 06:38 PM   #19
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Like thePiRaTE!! I to have been interested in what the D-Range 200% is doing. The sun came out the other day long enough to get some photos for comparison. I took the photos in RAW and for most of these photos I had the camera develop them to JPGs. I used the cameras to do this and used the default settings. I did this to try and be as consistent/repeatable as possible. I know the camera can be made to do better but how well the camera develops JPGs is not what I wanted to look at. I had the camera develop the photos 2 times. The first time at 14.6M **** for the 100% crops. The second time 2M *** to get them smaller so you can see the overall photo. I am sorry but 2M is as small as the camera will go so they are still large.

I used the camera in manual/D-Range and exposed so that the white was just clipping. I then used the same settings but D-Range off.



1/1000 F4.5 (the camera setting for best MTF for this lens) ISO 200 D-Range on.

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03-12-2008, 06:39 PM   #20
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1/1000 F4.5 (the camera setting for best MTF for this lens) ISO 200 D-Range off.
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03-12-2008, 06:40 PM   #21
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There is not much shadow in these 2 photos but there is a little that we can compare. A 100% crop of the 2 shows that they are both about the same. This is not the best photo to look at shadow detail/noise and thePiRaTE!! looked at this much better. What thePiRaTE!! shows is probable about right, I am just trying to show in this case there is not much (if any) differents here.

100% crop of some shadow w/D-Range on.
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03-12-2008, 06:41 PM   #22
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100% crop of some shadow w/D-Range off.
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03-12-2008, 06:42 PM   #23
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So the shadows are about the same but what if we go look at the other end in the highlights. Because I exposed in D-Range to just start clipping the high end less then about 1% of the white is blown. On the photo with the D-Range off about 90% of all the white is gone. Now remember this is not metering as all the settings but D-Range are the same. Because the shadows look the same and thePiRaTE!! has shown that the shadows are probably not pulled up then the high end must be pulled down. This most likely is before the A/D converter as if the pixel is full you canít get anything out of it other then all white.

100% crop of some highlights w/D-Range on.

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03-12-2008, 06:43 PM   #24
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100% crop of some highlights w/D-Range off.
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03-12-2008, 06:44 PM   #25
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Now the camera is not the best when developing to JPG at pulling out detail in the highlights but they are there. This is not something you can do with curves PP because if the pixel is blown there is no more information to pull out of it with curves PP. So if we go back to the RAW and PP to try and get this detail out can we? So this is what I did. I did this on the computer and not the camera because I should be able to pull out anything better or at lest equal to the camera. Again this is not to show how well the camera can develop a JPG but to see how many details we can pull out. With that as a goal I PP just to try and get highlight detail. This may not be the most artistic way to PP this photo and other parts of the photo may have suffered but highlight detail it is.

D-Range photo from RAW PP for highlight detail.
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03-12-2008, 06:45 PM   #26
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D-Range photo from RAW PP for highlight detail 100% crop of highlights.
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03-12-2008, 06:46 PM   #27
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Now there is not a lot of detail on the back plane of the antennas to begin with (they need to be smooth) but there is some detail there. The smudges around the seams of the back plane pedals are fingerprints from when we put the antenna together. You can see them in the crop a little better then when you are standing and looking at the antenna with your eyes.

As to D-Range is better or not I donít know. It seems to help save the highlights and at low ISO wonít cost too much in the shadows. So for me it will be some thing in the tool kit for those bright sunny days that I start blowing the highlights to maybe some of them.


Now there is not a lot of color in this photo. It is still early in the year and the grass mostly still looks dead. There is not much blue sky to look at and everything else is white/gray. There is good contrast and detail so I thought just for fun I will PP it into BW.

Black and white with some simulated PP red filter.
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05-06-2008, 09:05 AM   #28
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At the beginning of this discussion we obviously knew nothing about the subject, at the end we know nothing about it as well!
05-06-2008, 09:22 AM   #29
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QuoteOriginally posted by pichygrue Quote
At the beginning of this discussion we obviously knew nothing about the subject, at the end we know nothing about it as well!
I noticed that, too. ;-)

Will
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