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05-31-2013, 07:31 AM   #16

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Last edited by beholder3; 08-11-2013 at 07:06 AM. Reason: [deleted]
05-31-2013, 07:51 AM   #17
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If street photography is an important factor then you have no reason to switch.
The K-5 with a DA21LTD is a very capable kit and you would want to be using smaller apertures to capture more of the scene anyway.

There should be other reasons if you want to switch.
06-03-2013, 04:38 AM   #18
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QuoteOriginally posted by crewl1 Quote
If street photography is an important factor then you have no reason to switch.
The K-5 with a DA21LTD is a very capable kit and you would want to be using smaller apertures to capture more of the scene anyway.

There should be other reasons if you want to switch.
Yeah you're right. Pentax has always been outstanding in streetphotography with their tiny lenses. That's really a benefit in comparison with photographing strangers with a big fast lens.
However, streetphotography will only be a small part of what I do.
06-03-2013, 10:15 AM   #19
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QuoteOriginally posted by Tomm Quote
Ah there really is one!

Only drawback is its Manual focus only. Unlike most older users who used the Pentax MX etc. I am not used to manual focusing and at F1.4 that can be a pain without a good prism. Besides its quite expensive as well. In The Netherlands it is selling for 660 Euro. Just 200 Euros cheaper than the Sigma 35mm. Me personally really value AF so in that regard the Samyang is just not worth it. Thanks though, would otherwise be a perfect solution
I've used a Sigma 24mm f1.8 and have always been pleased with the photos I get out of it. Plus, it has close focus capability which is nice. The lens is somewhat large as most Sigma primes have been, but it's a good lens and can often be had used for around $300. I think it's FF compatible too....

looks like adorama and b&h stock this lens new for $549.

Last edited by mike.hiran; 06-03-2013 at 10:30 AM.
06-04-2013, 08:31 AM   #20
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In a similar vein, I have the Sigma 28mm f1.8 macro and find it very useful up close and wide open. Though, for macro, usually I'm shooting substantially stopped down. It shows up used for around $300 occasionally.
06-12-2013, 05:52 PM   #21
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I'm stunned by the lens. It blows the FA 31mm out of the water (well, the copy I had), and it is fantastic on the K-5. From my experience, this is the best image quality I have seen come from my camera; ever since the 77mm anyway.
View the original sized image on Flickr, this photo was taken at f/1.6....
06-12-2013, 06:08 PM   #22
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To get the field of view from you get from your 18-135, you're going to need a 70-200 ...1K right there. When you consider your D600 is at least $1600 you are already at $2500 ( with teh 70-200) and and you haven't got your primes yet. I've been through this a hundred times, and it always come down to, Those items.. the cost of the body and a 70-200 with longer lenses costing even more. With the K-5 18-135 around 1100 you're 1400 dollars in the hole. On the other hand as many point out, once you have those two things, you'll get narrower DoF for cheaper from there on in, if you keep to cheaper lenses. Anti-up the $2500, and from there you are laughing as far as i can tell. If you can't anti up the $2500 then you'll have to make do with less functionality. Less functionailty in terms of lens selection, for less DoF? It's a decision I can't help you with. It's personal.
06-18-2013, 04:50 PM   #23
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Not wanting to sound rude, I'm going to assume the OP wants to get out of focus effects, not be told whether it's in fashion or not. But worth noting I guess.

If you're really interested in images with thrown out focus in the background, why not shoot with something longer than 35mm? I mean, a humble FA50/1.4 set to f2 creates super beautiful out of focus effects and still gives you some depth of focus on the actual subject matter. Or the FA35/2 at f/2. There are lots of ways to achieve narrow depth of field, and physics says, the longer the lens (ie. your distance from the subject) the narrower the DOF at equal aperture and framing. Or how about a 77mm at 1.8 etc. Or 50-135/2.8. Still cheaper than a D600.

Full-frame vs apsc is the same DOF depending on how you calculate. If you're standing in the same spot, with the same lens, at the same aperture, you simply get a smaller frame on the apsc than on full-frame. But the DOF is the same. What apsc users typically have to do to get the same "framing" as the larger full-frame sensor is to either step backward (increasing DOF) or use a wider lens (also increasing DOF) to account for the half-sized sensor view. But the same 50mm lens, set at the same f/1.8 for example, on either an apsc or full-frame, is the same DOF. But the framing is different. It's just your distance from the subject that will influence greater or smaller DOF.

I wouldn't go full-frame just for that. But if you want a bigger finder or feel that the lens selection overall better suits your needs, full frame is nice. And expensive. I think we're realizing the benefits these days as most of the apsc lenses are in fact less expensive than their full-frame counterparts.

I shot Sony/Minolta full-frame. Some beautiful lenses and plenty of bokeh going on if I shot that way. And lots of detail. But my system got really big and heavy too, and for my photo interests that became a liability. Pentax has appealed because of its smaller lens selection, particularly the limiteds. But yes, they aren't as fast, and you're dealing with generally greater DOF. I bought a KPS 1.3 magnifier and it looks very much like a full-frame view in the finder.

I tend to be a buyer, switcher, next-thing, trader. I appreciate others' suggestions to stick with something, enjoy it, and go take some pictures.

Last longwinded comment. Please choose your system primarily based on lenses and not the body. My used Pentax lenses are all worth pretty much what I paid for them used over the past 3-4 years. Flashes not so much. And camera bodies, not in the least. They depreciate as computers do, because they are basically computers with a photographic feature set. Your Nikon lenses, if you get decent ones, will hold their value. That $1900 D600 will be worth $800 sooner than you think. It's a depreciating investment. But if it floats your boat and really does what you want, go for it. It's a good investment. I'd love a Canon D6, but I'm thinking about the system, lenses and overall approach, and the size/weight of the system can still fit my aims and budget.


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