[Fritz]

i have lots of questions, hopefully someone has answers :P
-so these focusing screens (whether Katz Eye or not) will black out around F5.6+? ... even outdoors? .. was this a problem for old film SLRs too?
-do the cheapo K1000 screens require a shim?

I have one of the chineese made ones from jinfinance. Around f5.6 you can see the edges of the prism getting a little dark. But it is still usable. However I still prefer to focus with the lens wide open, then stop it down to take the picture. I'm talking screw mount lenses of course. It is still very usable with my kit lens and my DA 50-200 at the long ends which are also f5.6. If you are stopping a lens down and trying to focus with f8.0, then you could have black out issues.

I just checked on my ME-Super and it seems to be about the same as far as black out goes. Starts to get a little dark at f5.6, and black outs start to happen at f8.0.

My jinfinance screen has a plastic shim. I don't know if that is a k1000 screen or not.

Just as a side note, I recently removed the split prism screen after using it for about 5 months and installed the original screen (this is a k100d). Funny thing is, the original screen is not nearly as bad as I remembered. And it is actually easier to see the DOF then with the split prism screen. And I can focus using any part of the screen, instead of the focus then recompose method I was using with the split prism.

I would say give it a try and satisfy your curiosity. It's not like these chineese made screens are going to break your bank account. And you might like it better.

[Fritz]

@ 5.6 ? split prism - not exactly... you still can focus, _BUT_ you need to position
your eye properly so that you can see through the both halves of the split prism... a little shift
will lead to either half going almost dark... microprism collar around split prism is unusable, yes - it is not black, but microprisms will not disappear even when in focus... based on my eye and my copy of x1000-cut screen of course...

Your statement on the screen and prism going dark is right on the money, at least with what I have experienced.

[deejjjaaaa]

ОК, quick test for you:

12:30 AM now... dark outside (USA EST) -> available light is one 40w bulb covered by semitransparent acrylic shade

K10D + cheap Pentax FA 80-200/4.7-5.6

2 shots @ 200mm, F8, 1/125", ISO100, on-board flash fired... the distance to the subject is ~7ft

no PP, no resizing - 100% crop done in CS3 after ACR4.4

here goes infamous Pentax AF




and here goes cheap chinese MF screen



judge for yourself

[deejjjaaaa]

just to test things I have ordered X700 cut screen in addition to K1000 cut screen... will see which one seems to be better

[Fritz]

My jinfinance screen with the shim is dead on accurate. Of course so is the original matte screen. The AF system, well you probably know the answer to that one. It is slightly better in brighter light.

So deejjjaaaa, is that a front or a back focus issue? Just curious. My problem has been a front focusing kit lens, though I think I've got it adjusted about as good as it is going to get without screwing up my other lenses.

[deejjjaaaa]

So deejjjaaaa, is that a front or a back focus issue? Just curious.

in front of the real focus plane we have magenta cast, behind the real focus plane we have green cast - so in this case it is a front focus.

[k100d]

thanks Fritz and deejjjaaaa, i think based on your positive experiences i'll grab one of jinfinance's K1000. and plus he has the 45 degree split and the rule of thirds for not much more. i just hope i get a plastic shim and not the paper one. did it come with the install kit too?

i'd love to support Katz Eye, but the rule of thirds lines cost as much as Jinfinance's screen with shipping :| ... i'll use the money instead on more takumar lenses

[deejjjaaaa]

and plus he has the 45 degree split

not all people actually like 45 degrees... for some it is easier to live with horizontal split... certainly you can always rotate the camera.

i just hope i get a plastic shim and not the paper one.

hope no more - they are not sending plastic shims anymore, so if you really will be buying
it then ask jinfinance to send you 3-4 shims (of various thickness if possible) instead of one just in case... just my 2c.

[deejjjaaaa]

just to test things I have ordered X700 cut screen in addition to K1000 cut screen... will see which one seems to be better

got the one cut from Minolta X700 today and put it in the old *istDL (that bracket in DL is real PITA comparing with K10D)

quick example (Pentax *istDL + Pentax A 50/1.7 = ISO200, 1/125s, F1.7 + ~2 ft to the target, CS3+ACR4.4 all auto, 100% crop, no PP + available light @ 40wt covered by milky white acrylic shade, no flash fired) - focus was on "C" in "ISCM"

[k100d]

got the one cut from Minolta X700 today and put it in the old *istDL (that bracket in DL is real PITA comparing with K10D)

quick example (Pentax *istDL + Pentax A 50/1.7 = ISO200, 1/125s, F1.7 + ~2 ft to the target, CS3+ACR4.4 all auto, 100% crop, no PP + available light @ 40wt covered by milky white acrylic shade, no flash fired) - focus was on "C" in "ISCM"

looks good! so which one is better? and i guess cuz the X700 is a bit thicker, no need for a shim. was it hard to get the screen in?
as well ... any exposure problems?

thanks a lot

[deejjjaaaa]

looks good! so which one is better?

I think that "matte" is better on X700 comparing with K1000, but I need
to look again through both... certainly K10 has pentaprism and *istDL has
pentamirror so visual impression will be affected a little bit.

and i guess cuz the X700 is a bit thicker, no need for a shim

*ist DL has its own shim (metal) which of course was put back in place during
the installation.

. was it hard to get the screen in?

*istDL is much worse.. I mean the bracket there is clearly not intended for an average Joe
doing the replacement... based on your case you either need to drink something or skip it before the process start

PS: Katzeye I guess is cutting their screens from Nikons... I run into such statements somewhere