Originally posted by saladin i went and splashed out on a new camera yesterday. My first ever digital SLR is a K10D. i've been tooing and froing for ages about whether to buy a DSLR, and if so, which one. But i finally decided when the runout deals on the K10 meant i could get a new body and two lenses ( the DA 18-55 Al, and the FA J 75-300) for AU$ 1295 ( US$ 1390).
Good lenses to start with, will keep you happy for a while--or forever. But if you can find the budget, consider replacing the kit lens with something like the Pentax 16-45 f/4 in the future. You know, the compact fixed-lens cameras these days can take VERY good pictures. So a very large part of the point of digital SLRs as an alternative is being able to get even better lenses. Most of the time you have to pay for real quality, but the 16-45 f/4 is one of the best bargains around. Not for now, just something to keep in mind for the future.
Quote: initial impressions are fantastic in terms of features and ergonomics - it FEELS like a camera, if nothing else.
It does, doesn't it? But this isn't just a personal touch thing. Once you get familiar with the camera, those ergonomics will help you take photos, and that's their point. This is especially true if, like me, you're shooting events where you really need to be able to react quickly. But perhaps I say that only because that's my experience. I think even portrait photographers benefit from the ergonomics. The more the camera becomes an invisible extension of your eye, the better any kind of photography will be.
Quote: however, i do have a few early issues. firstly, the shutter release feels very foreign. "depress shutter half way for autofocus". half way!?? rubbish, more like breath on the button to focus, barely touch it to shoot! but i'm getting used to it.
You'll get used to it. I still shoot film a little every month just to keep my fingers in it and the feel of my old Nikon N65's shutter is quite different from the shutters on my Pentax digital SLRs. And even the Pentaxes feel different from one another.
Keep in mind that you can, if you like, decouple auto-focus and the shutter button. You then use the AF button to focus. Some folks here seem to like to work this way. Me personally, I find the AF button's location one of the only awkward aspects of the K10D's design, so I keep AF tied to the shutter (or shoot manual focus, which I do more now at least with my K10D since I have a Katz Eye focusing screen).
Quote: less solvable at this stage is the intricacies of the metering. the k10 review over on the review page suggests that the K10 slightly over exposes. so far, mine seems to be a long way in the other direction.
My experience has been that the K10D (and the K20D, although somewhat less) tends to underexpose. Someone else noted that it underexposed about 1/3 stop for them and that's my experience.
Remember, while it depends on the picture, generally speaking, you want to expose the histogram as far to the right as possible
without blowing the highlights. Be sure to set the camera up so that it shows you the histogram and blinking blown highlights when you review the shot. Actually, I think the blinking blown highlights feature is more important than the histogram.
I used to shoot full manual (M or "hypermanual" as the, um, manual calls it) but a month or two ago I finally realized how brilliant the K10D/K20D's P ("hyperprogram") mode is, and I've been using it more lately. I tend to shoot with center-weighted metering and adjust the meter +1/3 EV, but even so, whenever possible, I actually look at the scene and take a couple of readings. I use AE lock quite a bit. The other day for example I was shooting a kitchen with bright light coming in through the windows. Because the shot was obviously a complex exposure, I switched to full matrix metering. When I framed the shot and let the meter figure everything out, the windows looked pretty good but the shadows in the counters and shelves were too dark. Metering deliberately on the counters and shelves blew out the windows completely. The correct exposure was obtained by pointing at a off-white wall away from the windows, locking the exposure, then reframing and shooting. In other words, a very typical compromise.
Anyway, experiment!
Don't forget the green button, by the way. It's spectacularly easy to shoot M mode with the K10D/K20D, because you can just hit the green button and get what the camera thinks is a "correct" exposure, and then you can adjust if you like.
Quote: the white balance catches m out a bit too. im now using the presets, but not confident to start manually adjusting. AWB is useless under tungsten lighting, so i change to the tungsten preset, which is ok. but i then forgot to change back when shooting outside and had lots of blueish landscapes for a while - took me some time to work out what was happening.
The K20D's raw file sizes are causing me to reconsider, but for the last year and more I've shot almost exclusively raw, and I have shot exclusively with AWB. My experience anyway is that it works very well, in any light including tungsten, but if a shot is off a bit, and the file is raw, I can fix better in post processing than in the camera. And this is one less thing I have to think about while shooting, which is really important.
Actually, that's why I've gotten so fond lately of hyperprogram mode. I've shot manual most of my life. I'm very comfortable with it and I can adjust my exposure pretty quickly. But as I said, I shoot events, and exposures change quite fast. In my haste to get a shot, I have occasionally failed to adjust when I should have--and the result was a messed up photo. Before I shot raw + AWB, I had the same problem with white balance: I'd get it right for a dozen shots, then it would change suddenly and I would not notice, and the effects on the shots would be hard to fix. Shooting raw + AWB, I keep all my options open. I simply don't worry about white balance at all. As for hyperprogram, sadly, I encounter really BAD lighting more than I'd like, but except for when the lighting is really bad, I can get hyperprogram to do what I want as quickly as hypermanual, and while I'm in hyperprogram, I'm less likely to completely spoil the shot with a bad exposure. So I feel I have just as much control but that hyperprogram is SAFER. Plus, I can concentrate on getting good shots and that's a help, too.
Anyway, you'll like the K10D. Have fun.
Will